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TPS batteries

Started by viper, April 20, 2014, 11:53:32 AM

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viper

Quote from: Debs on May 06, 2014, 01:49:59 AM
Where did you get the right angle valves from?

got them from here debs , bought a few things from murph over the years. Just beware that the site does not calculate uk postage, he charged me 10 bucks for that.

the valves were posted straight through the letterbox with no duties to pay , as was my battery eliminator for my gopro, maybe royal mail are going soft or I was just lucky

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/

doebag

Viper, did you get the tyres reseated ?
'Dying a'int much of a living, boy'
Outlaw Josey Wales

BigAlan

Quote from: viper on May 06, 2014, 09:38:39 AM
got them from here debs , bought a few things from murph over the years. Just beware that the site does not calculate uk postage, he charged me 10 bucks for that.

the valves were posted straight through the letterbox with no duties to pay , as was my battery eliminator for my gopro, maybe royal mail are going soft or I was just lucky

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/

I have a Go Pro Hero 3+ coming my way on friday, what and where did you get the battery eliminator?

Alan
Ducati owner now but I used to have a Black one, the fastest version.
Previous, Sprint ST (2), VFR 800, Fireblade's (4) SP1, VTR1000, GPZ900, CB250, BSA Bantam D14/4, Suzuki TS100, SX200.

Lonewolf

What is a battery eliminator?

BDF

For what it is worth: you can remove and replace the TPS sensors with the wheels and tires still on the bike. All it takes is  a pair of woodworking clamps and some blocks of wood; the bead is broken with the clamps and the tire bead held away from the wheel rim with blocks of wood until only about 70 degrees of tire is left in the wheel's bead well right over the sensor. Then the clamps can be used to push the tire to and past the sensor, which can then be removed.

Both sensors can be removed from the bike and new batteries installed and then everything put back together in just over an hour. Of course, a compressor is needed to re-seat one bead and re-inflate the tire.

I have a series of photos of this but am in the middle of trying to straighten out my photo hosting site. If anyone is interested, I can post the photos sometime in the future.

Brian

Quote from: viper on May 05, 2014, 09:25:31 PM
well ive changed my battery in the TPS and installed the angle tyre valve and success  :clap:

interesting note , the volts in my old battery was only 2.95 v and showing errors all the time and the new one is showing 3.3v, so there is very little margin for battery performance !

these angles valves are soooo much easier to use !

KiPass keeping you up at night? That low fuel warning burned into you retinas? Find unlimited peace and happiness here: www.incontrolne.com

viper

#20
Quote from: BDF on May 06, 2014, 04:28:54 PM
For what it is worth: you can remove and replace the TPS sensors with the wheels and tires still on the bike. All it takes is  a pair of woodworking clamps and some blocks of wood; the bead is broken with the clamps and the tire bead held away from the wheel rim with blocks of wood until only about 70 degrees of tire is left in the wheel's bead well right over the sensor. Then the clamps can be used to push the tire to and past the sensor, which can then be removed.

Both sensors can be removed from the bike and new batteries installed and then everything put back together in just over an hour. Of course, a compressor is needed to re-seat one bead and re-inflate the tire.

I have a series of photos of this but am in the middle of trying to straighten out my photo hosting site. If anyone is interested, I can post the photos sometime in the future.

Brian

hi brian , that's a great post ! I read about your clamp method over on the comcours forum where I think you are the go to technical guy. I used it on my back tyre and it works just fine.

however I still had to take it off to get my tyre shop to reseal the bead , we did try a 130 psi compressor with a tank with the wheel  on the bike but it wasn't having it

resealing the bead was the hardest bit of the process, next time I may try the rachet strap around the tyre with our 130psi compressor. taking the wheel off is so easy it may as well come off

viper

#21
Quote from: The Wolf on May 06, 2014, 02:12:17 PM
What is a battery eliminator?

a battery eliminator is a way of directlt charging the go pro whilst on the move. It goes into the go pro instead of your standard battery and has a wire coming out of the back , the wire can then be feed through a grommet through the larger backdoor of the camera , giving you waterproof charging. The eliminator needs a 4v power supply so you need the sort that from the bike.

don't go buying one as I have 2 ! I paid about £20 for each one, ive got one spare



BDF

Thanks. I mount my own tires (easy boys!) but have always thought that it was tough for the folks who do not do that, which I believe is most people who own a C-14 (GTR 1400 on this side of the pond). There are places / people who will put new batteries in the sensors but the person who does not have a tire mounting method is really stuck. So I fiddled around and came up with a way to do it with two wood clamps; new they are about $25 (US) each so it is pretty reasonable in cost, and it is really quite fast to do.

I have done quite a few of these and so far I have not had any problem re- seating the bead. I clean the tire bead and the wheel bead seating groove, then lube the entire bead with rubber lube (I use NAPA stuff but I do not think that will do you any good in the UK- just use whatever you folks normally use to mount tires). If the tire bead won't quite touch the shoulder of the wheel, I find that just pulling on that area of the tire fairly gently will make it touch and the tire will build air pressure. Once you are building pressure in the tire, it should seat before 60 PSI certainly and most of them seat at under 50 PSI I find.

Brian

Quote from: viper on May 06, 2014, 05:44:39 PM
hi brian , that's a great post ! I read about your clamp method over on the comcours forum where I think you are the go to technical guy. I used it on my back tyre and it works just fine.

however I still had to take it off to get my tyre shop to reseal the bead , we did try a 130 psi compressor with a tank with the wheel  on the bike but it wasn't having it

resealing the bead was the hardest bit of the process, next time I may try the rachet strap around the tyre with our 130psi compressor. taking the wheel off is so easy it may as well come off
KiPass keeping you up at night? That low fuel warning burned into you retinas? Find unlimited peace and happiness here: www.incontrolne.com

viper

just to show the Clamp method , I got my TPS out today in minutes with no tyre levers before my tyre guy fitted a PR4



BDF

That is exactly how I finagled the sensors out of my bike with wood clamps. http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16850.msg207449#msg207449

And the Chinese made wood clamps I used look almost identical to the <probably> Chinese made wood clamps you used. :-)

And that looks like what we call a 2 X 4 under the wheel; a standard piece of construction lumber made of pine and measuring a nominal 2 inches by 4 inches, although they really measure 1 1/2" X 3 1/2".

Brian

Quote from: viper on June 02, 2014, 06:19:05 PM
just to show the Clamp method , I got my TPS out today in minutes with no tyre levers before my tyre guy fitted a PR4



KiPass keeping you up at night? That low fuel warning burned into you retinas? Find unlimited peace and happiness here: www.incontrolne.com

City Slicker

For battery replacement, don't bother trying to find one with suitable tabs:


  • There are none available with solder tabs at the right angle so you'd have to bend and bodge what you find
  • The bulk of any tabs that have been bent around to fit will make it difficult to close the cover on the module
  • The profile of the tabbed version will have square or only slightly chamfered bottom edge and wont fit the casing

Buy vanilla CR 2032's with the standard chamfered profile on the bottom edge. Use some fine sandpaper to key the surface of the battery at the points on positive and negative sides roughly where the terminals will be connected ( on clock face, lets say 10 to 10).

Prepare two lengths of small gauge wire measuring about 10mm and tin each end. Tin the points on the battery where these wires will be attached, use a lower power soldering iron and limit the heat at the solder point as much as possible to avoid damaging any internal components of the battery. I found that I only needed the lightest touch to tin the battery,  and you will not need to put more than a 2mm blob to secure, provided that you properly keyed the surface first.

The rest is plain sailing. Solder the wires on the battery and then onto the circuit board terminals. I soldered wire to terminal pointing away from the battery compartment so I could lose any excess wire in the terminal channels.

viper

Hi city slicker and welcome to the forum.

I did the battery replacement some time ago( 2000 miles) and didn't encounter any of the problems you have suggested, yes the tabs were not in ideal position but soon bent into shape.


virginiajim

Excellent work, City Slicker!
Resistance is futile  2020 Indian Roadmaster  Waiting on the current Doctor to regenerate...

Debs

Quote from: viper on May 06, 2014, 09:38:39 AM
got them from here debs , bought a few things from murph over the years. Just beware that the site does not calculate uk postage, he charged me 10 bucks for that.

the valves were posted straight through the letterbox with no duties to pay , as was my battery eliminator for my gopro, maybe royal mail are going soft or I was just lucky

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/

I bought those from murths but they refunded my money after 4 weeks with no explanation. I guess they no longer have them  :sad:

Ant

This was an email i received from them when i ordered mine.......paid import duties as total came to over $50......... :angry:


"The export shipping charge for your order_318**________ is ___$10_______. We export using US First Class  mail; this gives us a tracking number and is generally fast through customs.  If you wish to cancel your order please let me know.  This amount does not include any duties, customs or tariffs collected by the addressees'  government.
We cannot bill your card or PayPal account for additional charges once your order has been placed.
We will not supply any false data on customs forms.  If you wish to complete the order follow the instructions below


Any export order that we do not receive shipping payment for in two weeks is deleted.

To pay your shipping charges follow the instructions below.

Go to:
1.  www.murphskits.com
2.  Login to the site.
3. On the left hand side of the page, you will see "products"
Select:
"International Shipping"
4. When this page loads, it will read:
"Additional Shipping"

5. From the drop down menu, select the amount needed.
Click on the "Add to Cart" Button.

6. Once that page has loaded select: "Checkout" and complete the order.


Sorry for the Inconvenience,
Gary Murphy