Installing FZ-1 Accessory Fuse Blocks

[Highett]

Installing FZ-1 Accessory Fuse Blocks

Not long after I bought the GTR I decided to add some accessory fuse blocks, at this point other than ride it I had not tinkered with it before.

I gathered the bits I thought that I would need:

The Service Manual, I knew it was big but I was not expecting the brick that turned up, damn near need a trolley to wheel it around - Good value too.
Manual Wizard
Link:
http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/manualwizard/the-KAWASAKI/Categories
Kawasaki Concours 14 ABS 1400GTR 2010 2011 Service Shop Manual Part# 99924-1431-02
Manual: $30.00
Shipping: $12.00 (USPS First Class Mail International)

For the price I do not think it is the genuine item, a very good copy and nicely presented and a lot cheaper than the dealer.



The Maintenance DVD set, exceptional value as I am a Mechanical NUL, being able to see how its done with in depth explanations as well, Yep that's for me.

Angel Ride Maintenance Videos
Link:
http://www.angelridevideos.com/concours.html
Kawasaki Concours Maintenance Video 10 DVD Set
DVD Set: 89.95
Shipping: 3.00



The wiring diagram, got it from Angel Ride Maintenance Videos, OMG - my eyes popped open wide when I saw that, still handy to have.



The Fuse Blocks, Researched them on forums and Google and decided on the FZ-1, They are compact and are easy to install and handle 6 accessories each, I bought two (2) one for the front and one for the back.
Fuzeblocks.com
Link:
www.fuzeblocks.com
Fuze Block: $79.95 each
Shipping: $14.00

Individually Packaged:



Size comparison against the FOB:



Contents top side:



Contents bottom side:



Whats inside:



The Bits:

I got a pair of 30 amp weather proof blade fuses from Super Cheap Auto, Damn things did not have a fuse so had to by some separately.

While poking around in Super Cheap I also got a 35 amp joining block, may come in handy.

I searched Singleton inside out looking for some 30 amp wiring, Settled on 50 amp paired, found an off cut in the shelving out back at Repco the guy at the counter was real helpful, bit heavier than I wanted but it will do the trick.



I have some shrink tube and other nick nacks in the Garage.

Where are they going, at this point until I strip of some covers and have a bow Peep I am not sure but I am thinking one inside of the fairing on the right side and one under the seat somewhere.

One thing I have is plenty of time so I am in no rush.

OK, For me doing this fuse block and wiring the FF50's was something new, in fact quite challenging as I have never done either before and the GTR1400 I found intimidating, with all its tech and being as crammed as it is.

I am so glad that I was not in a rush and took the time to research and prepare in advance.

However now that I have finished and I must say that I set no world records here, 3 days in the garage to wire in
    1. Two separate 30 amp fused 12 volt pared cables, one to the front and one to the back.
    2. Installed the fuse block in the front, Could not fit a fuse block under the seat (Single 12 volt power source instead at the rear)
    3. Wired in the driving lights (with a relay tapped into the high beam and the switch in the dash)
    4. Changed the globes in the FF50's to Philips X-treme power globes.
    5. Changed the GTR's standard globes to Philips X-treme power globes.

They are an improvement over the standard globes.

Each wire for every connection and join was soldered, wires going into screwed fittings were soldered before fitting.

I have to say right now, The Maintenance DVDs are worth every cent.

The Maintenance DVD showed me how to get the Smart Rivets out without removing the wind screen, and the big one how to remove the fuel tank. I had no idea I would need a a special tool (hunk of wood) to get to the fuel line.

This was very different from the bikes I remembered (20 years plus ago),  However I had a great time working on the GTR.

So here's the photos,

Removing the tank.

Just as the DVD said the rubber blocks fell off, stuck them back on with 3M doubled side tape again suggested by the DVD.



The Wood:



The fuel Line:



The Battery:

Now isn't it cramped in there, I managed to get two separate 50 amp pared cables fused (30 amp) close to the positive terminal out of there, If I ever need to get the battery out I will have to removed the fuel tank and disconnect the power cables from the 35 amp joining block through the access panel.
Seems like a lot of rooting around, but now I know how to remove the tank with out pulling off the plastic, it does not take long and its pretty easy.



The power cables (Front & Rear) Separate with own 30amp fuse and shared earth.



The Rear Cable:



Area under the seat:

I tried in so many places to fit that FZ-1 fuse block under there (including removing the tool box) and was not happy with how it sat in any place.
The rear was a secondary goal for me as I do not have any Farkles at the back yet, but now I do have a direct 12 volt fused power source sitting there for when I do, Mean while I will keep looking for something that does fit.



Note: I have since changed the seat to a Corbin Split seat and have mounted the rear fuse block in the tool holder.

The front cable:

Photos are self explanatory here I think.



The front bracket: (Attached to the inside right mirror mount)



The fuse block and FF50 relay:



The wiring:



Side cover fitted:



Job Done:

Cheers

Paul

[Rusty]

I feel sick.

[Lonewolf]

I feel sick.

Rusty, wheres your sense of adventure. Have you EVER done any work on your own bike? And I dont mean things like checking they tyre pressures.......

[trousersnake01]

That is a really lovely job, seriously well done, having done this myself, I appriciate what work has gone into this. Great set of helpfull pictures.

I put my fusebox under the fairing first time around and blew a bloody fuse so had to strip down at two in the morning before I could leave work. Its been moved now to where the toolkit was.
I have a halfords fuse box and two relays in there.
Anyway well done for a nice neat job.

[garfield1974]

I guess that this is good topic to share my solution of positioning Box on 2008 model.





I lay cables on the right side under panels and through heat pad.

Cheers

Gordan

[frenchbiker]

I simply put my fuz box in the glove compartment (central over the tank) on 2008 model, this box is just useless, I had to insulate though as it was too hot, but at least I have easy access to the fuz box if fuses need to be changed or new accessories need to be connected.

[Stephen.Stallebrass]

Where did you tap in the trigger wire for switched power, accessory lead?

[Kwikasfuki]

Yes from the accessory is easiest.

I did mine last week.

You're best buying the fuzeblock from nippy Normans. It'll be cheaper

[viper]

im a cheapskate and made my own, I used 2 x abs small electronic hobby boxes , 1 for all the red wires and one for all the earths ,inside the boxes a used a solid metal connector block . I took a direct supply from the battery which is feed through a relay which is activated by an switched live .

all in all cost about a tenner .

[Stephen.Stallebrass]

Yes from the accessory is easiest.

I did mine last week.

You're best buying the fuzeblock from nippy Normans. It'll be cheaper

Yeah, that's what I'm going to do. Just waiting for a sunny day to do it.  

Think I'm going to locate it under the seat, probably inside or in place of the tool box. Still have my alarm & Beowulf exhaust to fit too... bloody rain, wish I had a garage!

[Debs]

My fuse block is in the tool box so very easy to get to the fuses if any blow... Also its all on its own wiring loom and giving each accessory its own relay so I don't lose everything if one packs up..