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front discs thickness

Started by 2kwacks, October 31, 2012, 05:17:55 PM

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2kwacks

just curiuos to what your front discs thickness is with various miles. this of course would depend on how you ride your bike, either it be solo, two-up, loaded or unloaded the majority of the time. for example my front dicsc are at 4.8mm with 8,000 miles to date, I ride solo all of the time and mostly unloaded. and my front pads are the original ones and are approx half worn, I'm not a mad rider :no: but I do have my moments :smiley: kawasaki states when new, front discs thickness is between 4.8mm and 5.2mm the service limit is 4.5mm. if mine was at 5.2mm when new, that means my discs have worn by 0.4mm in 8,000 miles. in which case, my front discs could be at the service limit of 4.5mm at approx 14,000 miles :sad: so my question is.. have kawasaki put :shit: discs on our pride and joys :sad: in which case, may explain why so many have had front disc replacements due to warping :angry:
getting on now...  but not as old as Rog or Geoff

Boomer

48k miles fronts were at 4.1mm & 4.2mm.
Still stopped fine and never any warpage.
Now replaced with Chinese disks which stop fine.
George "Boomer" Garratt
Wickford, UK
http://www.gtr1000.com

2kwacks

#2
I was hoping for positive results :smiley: but this not explain why so many have needed to have the discs replaced at low mileage.
getting on now...  but not as old as Rog or Geoff

SirToU

See my other post. :-). On the other Brake Thread.   :-p
Ride it like it was stolen...
Motogymkhana UK Champion 2011-2014

tommytool

I don't mind the GTR throwing things at me so long as I know they're coming. The disks I sort of expect will need replacing eventually. Most dealers reckon they're made of chocolate. So long im braking sensibly and bobbins are kept free then I'm doing my best to keep them serviceable as long as possible.


mecki

I don't know if this is true, but I have been told that keeping the brake pushed while stationary after for instance a descend from a pass or a quick run through the twisties may result in uneven cooling and can therefore be a reason for disc warping.  :sweatdrop:
The later you brake the longer you go fast.

SirToU

Good technique in advanced braking is to slowly release the brake as you end your braking manouvre.

It makes sence that holding the (brakes) pads would insulate the disk, and give an uneven cooling, and hence warping.  So this sounds reasonable.

Neil
Ride it like it was stolen...
Motogymkhana UK Champion 2011-2014

tommytool

You mean like the pads are working the opposite to what a heat sink does  - retaining localised heat in a segment of the disc when stopped whilst the rest of the disc air cools? Wouldn't you get massive brake fade before the warping gives the pulsation through the lever?  Just a thought.

SirToU

But what is brake fade?

Brake fade occurs when the brake fluid boils, changing the fluid into gas.  As the gas expands, this is more compressible than fluid, hence why the brake then "fades".  Re-application or pumping of the brakes compresses the gas more and the brakes start to work again, although not with as much power.

This is why DOT 5.1 has a higher boiling point than DOT 4.

This is entirely different from heat in the disks, as the disks are not connected directly to the fluid.

Neil
Ride it like it was stolen...
Motogymkhana UK Champion 2011-2014

viper

#9
front rotors are 4.75mm thick  after 8500 miles. they were 5.1mm when new as the unworn lip can still be measured . My pads look healthy but cant comment on % wear as i dont know what they looked like when new, still on original pads and happy with the stopping power they provide, just changed the fluid tho.

i still say that keeping your rotor buttons free prolongs disc life and slows down disc warping

O.C.

It is possible that disc wear is directly related to the force/aggression of brake application  :whistling:

Ride smooth my friends
BE KIND...


ROG .

MGvalerio

#11
Quote from: 2kwacks on October 31, 2012, 05:48:20 PM
I was hoping for positive results :smiley: but this not explain why so many have needed to have the discs replaced at low mileage.

I found the 8 linings brake callipers with a brake lining thicker 03MM, this causes me ponpaggio slight vibration in the brake lever.
I assume that the problem is hard due to the lining.
Had warranty replacement brake discs and brake linings, but then resubmitted the lack of pumping the brake lever, fixed by me with polishing lining of the highest.

MGvalerio. :cool:






Ho riscontrato sugli 8 ferodi delle pinze freno un ferodo con maggiore spessore di 03mm,questo mi causa vibrazioni e ponpaggio lieve alla leva freno.
Presumo che il problema dischi sia da attribuire  ai ferodi .
Avuto in garanzia sostituzione dischi freno e ferodi,ma poi ripresentato il difetto di pompaggio alla leva freno,risolto da me con  levigazione del ferodo più alto.

Martin#30

My front discs reached the 4.5mm service limit at around 19,000 miles. Now on 31,000 miles, and they still work fine. Quite a pronounced lip on the discs, and last time I measured them (~26,000 miles) they were at 4.05mm. I would guess at 3.9 to 4.0mm now.

As Boomer said, they still stop fine with no overheating, fade or warping. I will only replace them when they start to warp.

OEM Kawasaki front pads last 12-14k miles for me. Rear pads are barely worn at 31k.

I always ride solo, always have the linked brakes on the setting that uses more rear, and I must say that I am quite disappointed with how fast the consumables wear. My gut feel is that the 2010+ standard pads are the culprit, and that Kawasaki have sacrificed wear rates to get the same performance for less money.

Martin.
65,000 miles now. Loving this bike.

SirToU

#13
Interestingly, went to a friends garage today.  Measured the disks while I was there - 4.27mm in 39300 miles.

Service Limit according to 2008 Manual is 4.5mm.  :-(

Neil
Ride it like it was stolen...
Motogymkhana UK Champion 2011-2014

viper

i certainly dont intend to change my discs at 4.5mm , if they are not warped and in good condition, when i do change i will go for the cheap chinese Ashai branded, ive had them on other bikes and always done ok with them.