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Rear dif oil.

Started by trousersnake01, October 16, 2012, 10:22:15 PM

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trousersnake01

Chaps,  (and Debs).

What oil goes in the rear dif please and how much of it will I need.

Just getting everything ready for a service.

On a footnote.  How much engine oil with filter change take.  Cheers.

viper

best use what your handbook says and the quantities are in there also,
i use 80w90 in my final drive oil, 1 ltr bottle will do at least 4 changes. Engine oil, a 4ltr can will easily do a full change and some left over for top ups

BigAlan

And on the same note what' the recommendation for engine oil? I have a man who is trained on bikes and he can change the stuff for me.

Alan
Ducati owner now but I used to have a Black one, the fastest version.
Previous, Sprint ST (2), VFR 800, Fireblade's (4) SP1, VTR1000, GPZ900, CB250, BSA Bantam D14/4, Suzuki TS100, SX200.

alibx11

#3
Re: engine oil....

Recommended is SAE 10W-40

Type: API SE, SF or above, personally I'd say at least semi synth if not fully synthetic

viper

again best do what the handbook says, i use 10w40, i use cheap oils such as castrol but change evry 2000 miles, expensive oils that are changed this frequently are a waste, if you run your oil over 4kmiles then use more expensive. if you do use castrol and other cheap oils , the diesel variants dont have the friction reducers so are good for your clutch, ive used this oil strategy for 20 years over a dozen or so bikes.

the main difference between cheap oil and expensive oil is the  additives that the expensive ones have, these additives prolong the life of the oil,stopping it from breaking down , which is great for long service interval, such as on some cars at 12, 15k miles

before my service at the main dealer yesterday i was running castrol GTX 10w40 diesel, my gearbox first gear clunk was as normal, my dealer just put nice expensive fully synthetic oil in and my gearbox action is exactly the same, just as clunky

Deon

I am waiting !!!!!!   

:popcorn:

Deon

Bryn


O.C.

BE KIND...


ROG .

pistole

- even with a limited amount of mileage on the GTR , i can tell the difference between different makes of oil (Sikolene Pro4 -vs- ProRace -vs- Motul 300V) just from riding it out from the dealership after the oil change.

- the harder the bike is ridden , the faster the oil "degrades" and you can tell from your left foot as you shift.

- btw , its not only about the 10w-40 rating. Its also the JASO and MA1/2 certifications.

.

viper

i know what you are thinking, however you are right , fully synthetic oils are better than cheap  mineral oil, but if you do very regular changes , say every 2k, you are really never benefiting from the longer life and the small difference the better oil has to offer. I worked for BP for 5 years and had involvment with their research team . the general consensus within their world was that expensive oils were a slight marketing con, its fact that regular oils are packaged in smaller cans and sold through bike dealerships as " motorcycle only oil" at a 30-40% premium.

i dont use cheap oil like supermarket stuff, i just dont use the £40/ £50 stuff , hein gericke do/did semi oil at about £18 and then there are the castrols and mobils semis ect

lots of stuff on the internet about this , some pulls my theory apart and some supports it, this article seems fairly neutral

http://ctwatchdog.com/finance/synthetic-or-conventional-oil-which-is-better-for-you

Alfor

were do you guys get the seal for the drain plug on the rear shaft?

2kwacks

#11
I've always used semi 10w/40 oil in all my bikes but change every 2,500 miles. I use either motul 5100 semi ester or castrol gps power one 10w/40 but buy the 5lt can and not the 4ltr can :wink: the gtr1400 takes 4.4lts of engine oil with a filter change. and it's cheaper than buying a 4ltr can and a 1 ltr bottle :smiley: the correct shaft oil is API GL5 sae ep80w heavy gear oil I use putoline which comes in a 1ltr bottle here's the link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GEAR-OIL-HEAVY-EP80-90-1-Litre-PUTOLINE-EP80-90-recorded-delivery-/190628763995?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c625c195b and is good for approx 6 changes, the diff sump takes 150ml of oil and you can get the crush washer for the diff drain bolt from any motorcycle bike shop or just ask your local dealer to sell you a few, there only about 25p each! I change my shaft oil every year which is a bit anal I suppose, but for the sake of 150ml of oil and 15 mins work.. why wouldn't you..! also if you can't be sure the dealer has changed your engine oil and filter and shaft oil, it would be very wise to do it yourself :smiley: here's a link for the motul oil, if you rather use a genuine kawasaki oil filter just ask him to sell you the oil
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTUL-ENGINE-OIL-5100-10W40-AND-HIFLO-HF303-FILTER-KAWASAKI-GTR1400-2008-2011-/160823055580?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2571cd14dc
getting on now...  but not as old as Rog or Geoff

2kwacks

Quote from: viper on October 16, 2012, 10:36:15 PM
best use what your handbook says and the quantities are in there also,
i use 80w90 in my final drive oil, 1 ltr bottle will do at least 4 changes. Engine oil, a 4ltr can will easily do a full change and some left over for top ups
oil change with filter is 4.4lts..!
getting on now...  but not as old as Rog or Geoff

viper

Quote from: 2kwacks on October 17, 2012, 09:45:27 PM
oil change with filter is 4.4lts..!

mm , ok then, dont remember having to open a second can last time i changed oil, maybe it was a 5ltr size !

BigAlan

Is the diff crush washer copper? I ask because I don't have one and I can easily heat it up to cherry red and quench it in cold water therefore annealing it for use again.

Alan
Ducati owner now but I used to have a Black one, the fastest version.
Previous, Sprint ST (2), VFR 800, Fireblade's (4) SP1, VTR1000, GPZ900, CB250, BSA Bantam D14/4, Suzuki TS100, SX200.