Changing Gear - Preloading Shifter - Any Issues ?

Started by pistole, September 20, 2012, 06:23:58 AM

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pistole

.

- hi fellas

- 2012 C14 : being my first shaft driven bike , have found it difficult to change gears smoothly.

- used to change gears the "traditional" way , ie , clutch in , then foot accesses the shifter , change gear , then clutch out.

- gear change the "traditional" way was very jerky , abrupt and slow.

- lately , have learnt to preload the shifter during upshifts. Ie , top of boot  gently presses up on the shifter , clutch in , gear lever pops up into next gear , clutch out.

- preload result : very smooth upshifts , very quick and seamless acceleration.

- question : any issues with gearbox reliability or damage when using preload ?

thanks

.

Deon

Yep, I agree with you. It's one thing about the GTR that I do not fancy. The gearchange is not smooth ( compared to my buddies VFR 1200 it is shite !!! ).
I do not think there will be any issues with putting some preload on the shifter as one can do clutchless upshifts anyway.

Deon

O.C.

Mine is as smooth as silk, once you've got used to the clunk when selecting first, which is more noticeable when the bike is still 'cold'

In fact all three GTRs that I've had have had good/smooth gearboxes, sure I've ridden better but I've also ridden a lot worse

Make sure that the gear change lever is correctly adjusted to suit you (sir)
BE KIND...


ROG .

scotty597

Clutchless changes over a prolonged period will cause heat damage to the selector dogs and wear the drum selector, which in the long run will mean difficult gear selection and a knackered box.

Pre-loading isn't quite as bad but has the same effect. Pressure on the lever before the change will move the selector dogs against the next gear face and the drum which will have the same effect of premature wear of the selector dogs and drum.

If your not keeping it then it wont cause you any issue. If your keeping it for a while then you may experience problems.

Like you I find the gear selection poor compared to my previous ST1300, especially the first few cold miles, it can be smoother if you apply the following rules...

For up changes, no matter how hard you accelerate level the speed for a second before the change this ensures road speed and engine speed are about the same (all the gears in the box are matched roughly to the output shaft) and lose 800-1000 revs only during the change. This makes for a smooth change.

For down changes again get the speed correct first by breaking or decelerating then lock the throttle to maintain that speed, then change gear whilst keeping the throttle in position. This will raise the revs by 800-1000 (per gear going down) and will result in engine speed and road speed matching the selected ratio.

Known as sustained rev gear changing. It takes a lot of practice but once mastered is usually silky smooth. Just takes a bit of thought and planning.

This is the method I have used to teach Police Advanced cars and bikes for years now, very satisfying when it works.


O.C.

Just thinking...both BMWs I owned K1300 GT and a R1200GS had crap gearchanges, in fact so bad I got rid of 'em  :yes:

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BE KIND...


ROG .

scotty597

 :agree:

RT1200 is awful. Always wonder why it gets such good reviews, heap of steaming  :asshole:




Deon

@scotty597,

Thanks for the advice. Will try it. Downshifting no problem but shifting up through the box is not as it should be.
My ZX14 was much smoother than the GTR.

Deon

pistole

Quote from: scotty597 on September 20, 2012, 08:00:39 AM
For up changes, no matter how hard you accelerate level the speed for a second before the change this ensures road speed and engine speed are about the same

- that "levelling" of the speed is what causes the jerky-ness. Ie , the bike's road speed drops off when the clutch is pull in and if the next gear is not fed in asap together with throttle , you get a "limbo" moment (which if i was carrying a pillion would be a helmet slapper situation) - hope am describing it in an understandable fashion.

- with pre-load , its an almost seamless gear-to-gear acceleration with the machine that is very satisfying (!!).

- am not trying to sell this idea of preloading , but hey , it seems to work very well.

- are all those bikes running around with "ignition-interrupt-full-throttle-up-change-gearboxes" doing the same thing that pre-loading does ?

cheers.

.

Max Way

I don't know if my bike is typical of the breed or not but I've always thought the gearbox was a delight just seamlessly snicks through the gears up and down.

Regards

Max

howard

Hi  how many miles has the bike done, i found once my bike hade 4k plus and its 2nd service the gear change is fine. I think using the clutch for up and down gear changes is what its designed for. Changing gear with out using the clutch will only result in wear in the gearbox.
Compaired to a Triumph ST Sprint gear change its like a Rolls Royce......

Mogster

Ok so lets get the bull :shit: out of the way... clutchless upshifts don't wear out the gear box!!.... this is a well used technique and modern gearboxes are designed in such a way that up shifts are as smooth as possible.

Clutchless upshifting is taught at all the Race schools as a smooth and efficient way of changing gear,

if you can't master it... its because you are a ham fisted oaf  :mfr_lol: , or are changing gear at 2,000 revs in an effort to prove you can get the highest MPG in the world ever...... at those revs, gear changes are subject to loads of transmission lash... now that will fook up the box.

She is like the Bumblebee, she should not fly....... and yet she does!

dokterdave

Quote from: scotty597 on September 20, 2012, 08:00:39 AM
For up changes, no matter how hard you accelerate level the speed for a second before the change this ensures road speed and engine speed are about the same (all the gears in the box are matched roughly to the output shaft) and lose 800-1000 revs only during the change. This makes for a smooth change.

For down changes again get the speed correct first by breaking or decelerating then lock the throttle to maintain that speed, then change gear whilst keeping the throttle in position. This will raise the revs by 800-1000 (per gear going down) and will result in engine speed and road speed matching the selected ratio.

Known as sustained rev gear changing. It takes a lot of practice but once mastered is usually silky smooth. Just takes a bit of thought and planning.

This is the method I have used to teach Police Advanced cars and bikes for years now, very satisfying when it works.

Im working on this, does take some thinking about, but sure is better.

Ros

Bah... Gear changes on my bike are sweeeeeet.  Dunno what you're all on about.

Having said that, I have a ZZR history, so maybe I'm just used to the kwaki box :rolleyes:


O.C.

eeee by gum...... when I were a lad, it were all double de-clutching that were 't rage  :mfr_lol:


mind you syncro hadn't been invented then  :mfr_lol:
BE KIND...


ROG .