Front brake squeel

[Lonewolf]

I've managed to get them all loose. Now what, just squirt some lubricant in the crack? 

[Rossendale Rider]

Steve,  I'm not particularly mechanically savvy but I recently removed my pads and gave my calipers, pins, discs, bobbins and pads a good clean with break cleaner and an old toothbrush. This evaporates off really quickly and I then lubed the back of the pads and pins with copper grease and put them all back together. Although the bike had done only 3.5k miles before, this has made a great difference. No squeal and I could even managed to stop if the lights changed to red!!!

[BigAlan]

I've managed to get them all loose. Now what, just squirt some lubricant in the crack? 

Thats what i do, then rotate them aorund again, prob once a month.

Alan

[Winston Smith]

Steve, if you do use a lube use it very sparingly as it could contaminate the pads/discs or stop brakes completely.  I would cotton bud a slight amount to inner part of each bobbin whilst rotating it

[tommytool]

I cleaned the 14 bobbins last week on the front wheel. I used the "bolt, 2 ally washers and then nut" to grip the bobbin and get it rotating. Thing is theres no way my bobbins will "spin" - and I'm not sure they are meant to. They are there to create an "expansion gap" when the discs heat up. Vipers right - they will surely influence disc warp if seized solid but to "spin" is maybe a little too loose - I could be wrong. The R1 had Galfers discs and they were an "interference fit" from new. One thing - I would never use any lubricant on the bobbins. Centrifugal force will throw it out onto the discs. Ive taken some pics of my method and the crud that came out when I used wynns brake cleaner - I'll add here later.  Cheers.

[O.C.]

Personally I wouldn't go anywhere near any part of my brakes/discs with any type of lubricant 

Brake /Clutch cleaner is an extremely flammable irritant and should be used in a well ventilated environment 

[Rusty]

What you mean in a garage with a fag on and the bar heater on full ? 

[O.C.]

Yep, that's the one

BOOM 

[viper]

Your front discs are made up of two basic parts, the outer shiny rotor and the inner hub piece. The two are designed to be independant of each other in terms of sideways movement.  Non Spining buttons that join the two parts together indicate that the outer rotor may have fused its self to the inner hub due to corrosion or just packed with grit.
Floating discs design such as these, as compared to solid discs ( cars ) are a superior design and allow for warped wheels, unbalanced tyres ect. The floating effect absorbs extra forces that could otherwise contribute to dics warping

Ive made this video to show that well maintained buttons spin fairly easily, the knack is to apply some down pressure on the wrench to gain purchase


http://youtu.be/8nnDSE87Blg

[O.C.]

Viper I'd like to see the video but it says "Video unavailable"

This is  an interesting topic particularly as some owners have experienced front brake problems

[viper]

its live now

[O.C.]

Thank you Viper.... interesting, I'll check mine tomorrow   

[tommytool]

Viper. Great video for clarifying the force required to turn the bobbins. This is the same force as I needed with the bolts nut and washers. When folks said "spinning" I thought they moved a lot easier than that. I can sleep easier now. My Galfers were the same also. Ta.

[Lonewolf]

Viper, that was very helpful indeed. Thank you. Now that I spent some time on mine yesterday mine also spin like that however I still need some lubricant for them.

[Deon]

Instead of lubricant, I gave mine a generous dose of brake cleaner. Turned them till the "crunchiness" went away, wiped dry. They are now as good as new again. Think once a month chore will do no harm.

Deon