POWER LOSS

[rippers]

Yep, Consultants fees cost a fortune. If I am ever in his presence though, I will touch my forelock and buy him a beer or two. 

[O.C.]

nice one 

[Boomer]

 
I have always been of the opinion that what goes around, comes around.
Or if yer of a religious/farming bent "what ye sow, so shall ye reap".
Over the years I've had a lot of help from all kinds of people, so passing the favour on is a pleasure.
Fingers crossed that the ride goes well.

[rippers]

Boomer

I will let you know this weekend. But bike starting up and all computer read outs ok

[scotty597]

This type of fault is exactly what happens on the 1300 Pan, battery starts to go and you get all sort of weird electrical problems, meters playing up misfires and then death. New battery sorts them out.

Seems to be an affliction of new bikes with loads of electronic trickery.

[rippers]

Bike working, and running great UNTIL!! Same problem at high speed in top gear at about 5000 revs. OOOH!!!

Will now start looking at filters etc.

[Boomer]

Could still be electrics.
If the Rectifier/Regulator has died it will be outputting AC which will mess with the electronics.
Put a multimeter across +12v and ground (frame) and check the DC voltages at various rpm (up to 6,000).
Then change the multimeter to AC voltage and do the same.
DC should stay below 14.5 volts and AC should be below 1volt.
If it does go over these at higher rpm then the rectifier/regulator has died, which would explain what killed the old battery.

[viper]

Sounds like the battery has had a weld fail.

The battery will be suffering from low voltage due to high resistance across the busted weld which can cause the power loss you describe, due to low voltage at the coils which leads to weak spark. This in turn makes for crap emissions and the O2 sensor detects this and tries to adjust the fuelling accordingly.

Replace with a new battery and see if it happens again.

Boomers,s da man

[pistole]

Could still be electrics. If the Rectifier/Regulator has died it will be outputting AC which will mess with the electronics. Put a multimeter across +12v and ground (frame) and check the DC voltages

- thats why i like the voltmeter function on the GTR.

- very comforting on long rides.

.

[rippers]

Latest saga. I have been out on the bike today over Cat and Fiddle and down the motorway, where I did push the revs up, and now it is perfect. I can only think the engine memory system remembered the first problem and it has taken some time before it has re set itself, Certainly it now seems fine at high revs. Just hope I do not come back on with the same problem.
Thanks to all of you for your help and Boomer.
I have to say this site is really useful for information and help when something is not right with the great GTR 1400 

[Boomer]

Yup, sounds like our GTR has a "limp home mode" in the ECU.
When the voltage drops it triggers an alarm which pushes the ECU into "limp home mode".
Sometimes these can take a little while to clear.
Glad it's back to normal full on BANZAI mode! 

[shaggs147]

Hi rippers, I had a similar problem to this on an 08 vfr800. No problems with a fully charged battery, but as the bike was used it started to do the same thing on a long run...... Funnily enough it was when I was going an a 400 mile round trip to look for my gtr! I found the problem to be the regulator/rectifier failing only after it got hot. I hope your problem is sorted mate, but if it does return its something to bear in mind.

[rippers]

Hi Shaggs

Thanks for this I will keep it in mind. I am off to Belgium in September so do not want this happening again. At the moment the battery is holding its charge and all seems well. But strangely enough this did happen after a long ride from Cheshire to Cotswolds and my return, then the following day it started fine then nothing. I have fitted the new battery and all seems well. I really gave it some stick last Saturday but did only about 50 to 60 miles and all seemed fine.

[shaggs147]

Nice one Rippers, hope its all ok.
When I checked the alternator output on the Vfr it was something around the 14v mark I think when it was ticking over from cold. I took the bike for a long run, and then checked the output again. I think it was holding at roughly the same voltage for a little while, but as the temperature started to climb the alternator voltage dropped off like a stone. It was nothing to do with the fans cutting in, it was just the rectifier breaking down with heat. It can be an awkward fault to find as the battery will hide the problem if you only do short trips, especially if you then put the bike on a trickle charge when you park it up. On a longer trip the battery is gradually being discharged due to the regulator not being able to keep up, and when it falls below its critical voltage the bike's electrics will start to go haywire.
Hope that helps mate.