ENGINE OIL TYPE

[Deon]

Hi guys,
My bike is nearly ready for 12 000 Km ( 7 500 miles ) oil change. It would be intersting to know what brand you are using in your bike and whether you are running synthetic or semi synthetic. I understand that any oil should be motorcycle specific oil (API/JASO ratings). 10W-40 is what I will be using.

Deon

[Kwikasfuki]

Hi Deon and welcome to the forum

I've 49k and am running with Motul semi synthetic. I'll probably switch to synthetic to see if there is a difference, but at the moment happy with the semi synthetic.

[Deon]

@ Kwikasfuki,
Thanks for your feedback. Was member of the "old" forum and noticed nothing going on for a while but got re-directed to this forum this morning. Are you using the Motul 5100 ?

Deon

[Kwikasfuki]

I think I am. I will have to check and get back to you.

When I go synthetic I think I'll be going with Mobil.

[Deon]

Thanks,
Please let me know. I was also looking at the Mobil 1 4T - but have read some reports that it is not actually a full synthetic oil. Apparently there is a loophole in the USA where oil manufactures can get an API full synthetic rating even if it is not full synthetic.

Deon

[Rusty]

Hello Deon and  .... hope the weather in Port Elizabeth is better than in the UK ! At my next service ..16000 miles ... I shall ask the dealer to switch to Mobil Fully Synthetic for no other reason than it's engineered for high performance engines and I want to look after my Gtr on the inside as well as the outside !! Enjoy 

[Deon]

Hi Rusty,
Well, watched the jubilee on SKY over the last few days and the weather is certainly better here than there !! But, we are going into winter now but that is normally better for biking as it does not get so hot. Yes, I agree and the reason why I asked the question. Oil is the blood of our bikes so no use going cheap !!!

Deon

[Lonewolf]

Deon, welcome along to the forum.
I thought fully synthetic oil was a no, no. I remember reading somewhere that it could cause clutch slip or am I confused?

[Winston Smith]

'Car' oil will cause clutch slip due to the structure of it.  Thats why you need motorcycle only oils.

I wouldn't bother with fully synthetic, semi is fine and recommended.  Full synth is only really needed for racing.  Semi is more than fine for road useage.

Synthetic motor oil is thinner than regular motor oil but withstands high and low temperatures slightly better than regular motor oil and therefore recommended for high performance racing engines or for use in very extreme hot and/or very extreme cold climates. Synthetic oil takes slightly longer to breakdown before losing its lubricating properties which translates into longer time periods between oil changes but it still requires periodic oil changes. Full-synthetic oil is recommended for extreme cold climate start-ups because its thinness makes it less sticky and less tacky between the moving metal parts of a cold engine which makes it easier for cold engines to turn-over compared to using regular motor oil which is a thicker oil but then it's the same reason why 5W(Winter)/40 or higher multi-weight motor oil is recommended for extreme temperature climates rather than choosing 10W/30. But synthetic oil is warned against using during a new engine's break-in period and also warned against using in engines prone to leakage because the thinness of the synthetic oil increases leakage particularly in older engines.

Semi-synthetic motor oil is said to offer many same exact advantages as full-synthetic but at around half the price or so.

Regular motor oil with an additive may be cheaper but it apparently works just as good as the more expensive synthetic oils and not worse nor better but essentially the same in regards to lubricating and protecting engines.



Save your money!

[Rusty]

Steve ... I think you are just confused !!! 

[viper]

when i was seconded to BP for 5 years i learnt alot about the expensive oil retail hype. The main difference between cheap oils and expensive is the addatives that they used to increase the life of the oil, cheap oils break down quicker and then they dont cool and lubricate sufficiently . So if like me you change regular ( i change  oil between services ) so about every 2k miles then its pointless putting in an expensive fully synth , you just wont benefit from its long life. I have for many years just used a middle of the road 10w/40 . I use oils designed for diesel engines as these dont have the slip anti friction properties that are bad for bike gearboxes. I tend to use the castrol gtx diesel oil  and use the same oil for my bmw diesel car . I have in the past used oil from hein gericke when its on offer at sub £20 .
ive done over 100k bike miles along this principle .

[Deon]

It is true, the discussion on oil could go on forever !!!
@Lonewolf, you are right. There was a time when full synthetic oil was a no no for bike engines because of the wet clutch. However, these were oils with friction modifiers added (to assist with cooling in car engines). Since, the API & JASO standards have developed oils without (or with much less ) of these friction modifiers. Therefore, if the oil is API SJ and up rated or JASO MA rated, it is designed for wet clutches and will not cause slippage.
However, I did not want to start a debate on oil, I really would like to know what BRAND of oil you guys are using and whether or not you are using semi or full synthetic oil. I change my oil and filter every 5 000 Km's ( 3 125 Miles ) and I will do this whether I decide to go full syhthetic or semi synthetic. I know it might not be worth the extra money spent on these intervals on full syhthetic but we have hight temps here is SA and I do ride hard most of the time. Oil to me is the blood of the engine and I do not want to compromise that.
Deon

[100milesaway]

I use Silkolene Comp 4 it is expensive, but as you say it is your engines life blood.

[Deon]

Thanks for your feedback !!

Deon

[dokterdave]

I use Silkolene Comp 4 it is expensive

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