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Just sold my 2010 model. On my way to deliver it the keyless ignition failed. Bike recovered and problem helpfully solved the next day (4 hours work) by Colchester Kawasaki. A piece of grit under the microswitch that closes when the fob is detected. The mechanism is contained in a sealing sleeve so their opinion was that the dirt was probably there from assembly. Whatever the cause, it was a royal pain in the arse and very embarrassing to explain to the potential buyer nevermind a two day delay and two overnights on what should have been a day trip. What did Kawasaki have to say? "Oh - we've never had a problem before". A blatant lie because I recall even one of their long term test bikes having a similar problem published in MSL. While the bike was in the workshop, I commented that it was as well that the steering lock wasn't on as the recovery would have been near impossible. "Ah - Kawasaki have shown us the dodge to release the steering lock without the turning the ignition switch" said the helpful mechanic. Well that's OK then - the bike thief won't know that trick will he? It also prompts the question "Why would you need to know such a trick if the ignition switch never fails (see above)? While on the phone to Kawasaki at the scene of the breakdown, they suggested that I might try unplugging the ignition switch and reconnecting. The plug is under the new glove box assembly. While struggling to reach the plug (remember the ignition is off and the glove box is "locked") the lid pops open simply from the pressure of my hand near the lock while trying to reach under it. I suggest that owners regard this lid as unlocked at all times if it that easy to spring open. I wish the new owner many miles of trouble free ownership and fun. Perhaps I have just suffered and remedied all incipient faults and the bike will run on forever without further problems. Let's hope so. Oh - by the way - that's was my first and last Kawasaki - ever.

OK – now with another 4,000 miles experience of the 1400GTR, here are some further thoughts on it.  First, let me say that it is an enormously capable motorcycle but it has flaws.  Principally, these revolve around the suspension and, to a lesser extent and probably as a consequence, the handling.  There is no getting away from the fact that the quality of the suspension is not what it should be for a bike of this price.  The ride has a very "budget" feel.  Some of this is definitely down to the enormous unsprung weight, especially at the rear.  I weighed the rear end (wheel, tyre, disc etc. in place weighed at the axle with the rear shock disconnected) and it is more than 40% heavier than my last bike, an FJR1300.  The front wheel is no lightweight either.  The result is that strong road shocks get through to the rider no matter what the settings of the limited adjustment available.  The wheels are simply too heavy to respond as they should.  Add to this the fact that the rear shock especially seems temperature sensitive.  It definitely improves as the engine heat filters back and heats it up.  This indicates that damping is decreasing as the oil thins so on a more adjustable unit I would definitely try decreasing the compression damping to help the suspension to respond quicker but no compression adjustment is possible.  Same with the front forks.  I am reluctant to spend heaps of cash on a sophisticated shock like an Ohlins because I am not sure that it would be that much better with all that unsprung weight.  Besides, at twelve and a half grand, it shouldn't be necessary. 

The outcome of the suspension shortfall is that the bike can become a bit unsettled if pitched into a bumpy bend.  Not dangerous – just not hugely confidence inspiring.  The GTR seems too ready to follow road irregularities, a habit that increases as the rear tyre wears.  I recently road tested the latest Ducati Multistrada 1200.  If you want to know what properly sorted suspension feels like, try one!  Yes it is more expensive than the GTR but, if you took away the fancy suspension electronics and went with just manually adjusted suspension back and front, I dare say they could sell it at GTR prices.

There's nothing wrong with the GTR engine but it is a surprise to have to downshift so much for rapid overtakes on a bike of this capacity.  Again, compared with the Multistrada's instant punch at any revs, the GTR feels a bit woolly low down.

Strangely, the fuel consumption is the most criticised aspect of the bike in magazine road tests yet I am delighted with its average of 49mpg with lively use (rear tyre shot in 2500 miles gives a guide to my usage).  A bit of restraint and use of the ECO fuel map can easily top 52mpg and hard use never drops it below the low forties.  A big plus point that no V-twin will ever match and it does mean that you can realistically expect 200 miles from a tank of gas.

I have come to terms with the strange computer controlled linked brakes and now hardly notice them.  Not to say that I wouldn't prefer to be without them.  That said, the brakes really are very good.

The lack of storage space on the bike is irritating as it means that the panniers always have some basic tools, puncture repair gear etc. in them.  Perhaps you don't carry much in excess of the useless factory tool kit and prefer to rely on breakdown services.  If so, you won't have a problem.

Fitted with a Calsci XL screen, the weather protection is very acceptable and the riding position seems about right for me.  I wouldn't much care if there were no heated grips – I hardly ever use them.

Two additional small gripes: there is no grab handle to assist in getting it on to the centre stand which becomes difficult unassisted if heavily loaded, the more so if you were a small guy, and the turning circle is not small enough to easily do a U-turn in an urban street.  Again, if you are a smaller rider, a three point turn involving plenty of footwork is not a welcome prospect for such a big machine.

Am I pleased with my 1400 GTR.  Yeah, kind of, but this is never going to be the love affair that you always hope a new bike will become.  Perhaps it is just a comment on how good modern bikes can be that I always expect more than I get.  I will keep my GTR for several thousand more miles, but only because a Ducati Multistrada is hard to get at present and I won't get mine (yes - I have ordered one) until after a couple of planned long trips.

Has anyone found an alternative to the pathetic narrow tapered rear mudguard that throws road muck all over the back of the bike, panniers and top box?  I am presently running with homemade side and bottom extensions but wouldn't mind fitting a proper alternative.

I can't see why a larger screen would reduce down force on the front wheel.  The screen is angled back and can only act like a crude admittedly steep wing increasing the downforce if anything (think Formula car).  Perhaps some change in airflow is causing you to pull on the bars which might appear to give that effect.

At 6ft2 I have problems with the even the 2010 screen so I fitted the XL version of the Calsci screen which gained me about 3 inches in height and 2 inches on width.  More important, it has a vent to reduce turbulence and  back pressure.  So far, it seems to work well though a downside to the calm behind the screen is that my visor mists up more readily.  You can't win em all.

My front guard clogs up the radiator with thrown up crud which means that the radiator must be at risk of a stone from the same source.  Fitted a Fenda Extenda which seems to have improved matters.  Still, the gaping empty space under the radiator covers the pipes in crap in no time and on a wet day produces a cloud of steam risinmg between the tank and the instruments.  The FJR1300 is sealed with a fairing panel under the radiator so no such problems.  What do you reckon to closing off that gap with a home made panel or is the air flow there important?

What is it about noisy exhausts?  I admit the standard can is big, heavy and, arguably, ugly but it comes free with the fuelling set up for it.  Why on earth would you fit a noisy aftermarket can on a touring bike.  Perhaps you bought the wrong bike if you reckon that it needs a noisy exhaust.  I haven't even changed the cans on my track-day bike.  It gives me a kick passing the race-canned sluggards on a comparitively quiet bike.  On the road, it saves drawing the unwanted attention of the police.  Well, it would if they hadn't all been replaced by speed cameras and VOSA cars.  Besides, why do I need an extra 3 bhp when I can improve my lap times much more by opening the throttle half a second earlier or braking 5 yards later.  Not to mention that the cost of two cans would pay for 6 more track-days.

Everyone has their favourites and that's fine.  I do 20,000 miles a year so tyre wear is a very significant factor.  I have kept very detailed record of tyre wear for many different makes for over ten years and I conclude that there is little to choose between them.  Sure, some wear better than others but it's no good if a tyre last 10% longer but costs 20% more.  As an ex racer of 20 years experience, I am quite sure that all the sports touring tyres give excellent levels of grip and are better than most riders.  Claims about x tyre being so much better than y leave me unimpressed.  Mostly it is in your head although I do concede that different makes may feel different.  So I concentrate on getting most miles for my pound and that has meant that I have used Conti Road attacks for the last couple of years because I could get them at a good price.  You may find other bargains at your supplier or you may be a low mileage rider so the cost of tyres isn't as important.  Whatever floats your boat - it's your money.

This post is actually a true tale.  I had a much modified FJR1300 that needed replacing and the choice was clearly between the four bikes in the heading.  Obviously I could just replace my FJR1300 with a new one.  The standard FJR rear shock is an insulting joke that leaves the bike's back end dragging low when loaded.  My previous two FJRs had been fitted with an Ohlins and a WP shock, both of which cured the problem and much enhanced the handling but seriously damaged my wallet.  The current FJR is much more difficult to fit an aftermarket shock to as there is a lump of electrics right where a shock reservoir would need to go.  Still, there are remote reservoir shocks so it must be possible.  The FJR has a great engine, the only gadget is ABS, it handles great with a new shock, the seat is crap and the screen is too small but fuel economy is fair to good and the brakes work well with HH pads fitted.  I fixed all those on my 06 model but did I want to do it all again?  Then I asked the price.  Yeah - nice joke Yamaha.  14 grand - you're havin' a laugh.  My 06 was discounted to about £8750 when I bought it new.  So that was another FJR out of the window.

Next came the K1300GT,  Nice bike to ride - stonking engine though with a bit of vibration,  The handling was good if you can get used to the strange front end.  Comfortable seat too.  A good candidate but BMW's are having a bit of a bad patch lately with quality control and reliability, especially the electrics.  The biggest problem is that you have to buy in to the whole BMW ethos.  Don't think you can work on it yourself.  Every little job requires you take it to a BMW dealer.  You can't even fit new brake pads without a dealer resetting the computer service indicator.  I don't much like dictators in any form and BMW are the Nazis of the motorcycle world.

Then there is the Multistrada 1200.  It looks like it really is four bikes in one.  I love that electonically adjustable Ohlins suspension and the other engine adjustment gimmiks.  Weather protection looked a bit sparse but the seats felt OK and the riding position is good.  It could be the one but, at the time of purchase, no-one had a demo bike and I will never again buy a bike without riding one first.  Besides, I bet that there will be some mods in its first year as they iron out the problems so I wouldn't normally buy any bike in its first year.

So that left the 1400GTR.  I would still have been unsure but I found a 300 mile old 2010 model at £10,500 (£2000 saved) and a road test confirmed that it worked well enough for me so that's what I now have.  I can't find any really bad points but it feels less sporty than my FJR, the rear shock is just about acceptable though the seat needs work and the screen has already been replaced by a larger one.  My big doubt is the linked brakes that just don't feel normal.  I wish that I could switch off the damned computer control and decide for myself what level of braking I want front and rear rather than have the electronics second-guessing me all the time.  Still, so far (only 1500 miles) it does the job well and, contrary to constant reports from MSL magazine, is good on fuel consumption (46mpg+ on average).  I still wonder whether I will end up with a Multistrada.

Couldn't agree more.  My problem is the slope on the pillion section that keeps sliding the passenger into the rider's back.  I cured that on my previous bike with a totally hand customised seat.  It is the only way to be sure.  A lot of the aftermarket seats are just as bad.  They seem more interested in looks than function.  Good luck.

The linked brake system is quite sophisticated but it took a lot of research to find out how it actually worked (see below).  It has its advantages but I can't help thinking that I'd be happier if I was in control not some computer.  Too soon to say whther the occasional rotor problem is cured.  They don't look any different.

2nd Generation K-ACT (Kawasaki Advanced Coactive-braking Technology) ABS
K-ACT (Kawasaki Advanced Coactive-braking Technology) ABS enables riders to execute controlled, balanced braking. Designed to complement riders' applied brake force, K-ACT ABS ensures ideal brake force distribution to maximise braking efficiency.
An evolution of the K-ACT system first seen on the 2009MY VN1700 Voyager ABS, this 2nd generation system makes use of a smaller, lighter K-ACT ABS unit (approximately 25% smaller and 30% lighter) and a higher-spec brake ECU capable of more detailed calculations, which results in even smoother operation.  Rider actuation of the front brake lever and/or rear brake pedal causes brake fluid to act directly on caliper pistons as in usual brake systems. Pressure sensors (one for the front brake master cylinder, and one for the rear) detect the amount of braking force the rider is applying.  Then, taking into account the vehicle speed at time of initial brake application, the brake ECU determines the amount of corresponding brake force necessary for maximum braking efficiency. A motor in the control unit operates front and rear fluid, increasing pressure to the front right caliper (based on rear pedal application) and/or rear caliper (based on front lever application) as necessary.  Two more pressure sensors (one measuring front right caliper fluid pressure, the other measuring rear caliper fluid pressure) also provide feedback to the brake ECU.
Like most ABS systems, K-ACT ABS is ON all the time. However, in keeping with this model's concept, K-ACT ABS settings are sportier than those used on the VN1700 Voyager ABS.
On the GTR, riders can opt to choose from one of two modes to suit riding situation or rider preference. While front brake lever effect on the rear is the same in both modes, the effect of rear brake use on the front brake is quite different. Standard Mode: (reduced K-ACT effect) - rider control is prioritised - linked effect is reduced at initial pedal stroke for natural sensation when riding in the hills
High Combined Mode: (enhanced K-ACT effect)
•   more pronounced linked effect from the beginning of pedal stroke
•   ideal for touring/riding with passenger/highway use (Please note that after a given pedal stroke, the K-ACT effect for both modes is the same.) Desired mode can be selected using the K-ACT button on the left grip.
K-ACT ABS also incorporates an anti-lock braking function to help prevent the wheels from locking up during hard braking in a straight line.
For maximum controllability in tight corners and when executing U-turns, K-ACT ABS's coactive function does not engage when braking is initiated at speeds below 20 km/h (12 mph). The ABS function is disengaged at speeds below 6 km/h (4 mph).