When I bought the new GTR back in January last year, trading in my old 'Brown one' my man at Colchester Kwak said "You really ought to buy a rear hugger for £100 because it will stop your rear adjustable suspension from seizing". So I did.
Guess what ?
That means that in 15 months of ownership and 17,000 miles I have had 3 sets of pads, new discs, the paint is chipping off my exhaust, the rear tyre pressure sensor has been flashing and now the suspension has seized up.
You know, I might just be having second thoughts about this bike.
Essex Boy
easy way to sort the suspension adjuster.
Take it off (bolts are quite tight), Spray WD40 into the cap, then wind it up and down several times.
then wind it all the way in, and out 12 turns to set it back up.
after mine seized on my 2010 within 12 months, I did this and never had a problem with it since.
if you go back and replace it, your just going to have the same problem again in 12 months because its not lube'd up at the factory. The other thing is, the hugger protects the rear shock but not the adjuster.
Water is being driven into the adjust from the front of the bike (I know it seems strange) but when you look at the patterns on the boxes and behind your legs from road dirt, its actually sat in a vortex just in front of the boxes, then being driven up the adjuster.
hope that helps, prepare to be strong! turning that adjuster in and out, is not the easiest task, but it works or did on mine.
Neil
I pulled a tight fitting balloon over the adjuster. :yes:
Even with what is 'higher'mileage on your bike EB there really shouldn't be that kind of problem with a GTR it is both Flagship, and super tourer when all is said and done.
I agree with SirTou a hugger wont protect the rear suspension adjuster :no:
And don't forget the chocolate bearings. After 28K I'm on my fourth front set and just had the rear ones done. 28K is probably not too bad for a rear set, but 7K for a front?
If I had to pay for it all, it adds up to an extra £1000 a year in parts and servicing. Luckily I've had the discs and some front bearings on warranty.
It's not a low cost tourer, that's for sure. Far more expensive to run than my previous FJR. With the cost spread over three or four years, it makes it worth considering a BMW GT 1600 next time.
Appreciate your thoughts and advice guys, especially SirTo U but as my bike is only 15 months into its life I think that Kawasaki can fit me a new one under the warranty and then I think I will put a balloon or something similar from Mr Durex on it.
but what annoys me is that if you had to check and clean and fiddle with your car suspension once a month there would ne uproar.
EB.
Quote from: 1ka on May 03, 2013, 04:47:07 PM
With the cost spread over three or four years, it makes it worth considering a BMW GT 1600 next time.
The 'basic' R16GT is £15.7K o.t.r which is about £2K more than GTR the SE model BMW is another £1200 extra
Quote from: olde coney on May 03, 2013, 09:17:47 PM
The 'basic' R16GT is £15.7K o.t.r which is about £2K more than GTR the SE model BMW is another £1200 extra
Which is why the extra £4K in parts over four years on the GTR makes the BMW look attractive.
Does anyone know if the BMW has any similar high mileage issues?
Personally, I think your being harsh....... Poor GTR.
I'm now on 48600 miles and 1 month off 3 years old, 24/7 bike ..... Front bearings every 15-20k, rear bearings, 45k. Never replaced disks - learnt how to take care of them on my first 2 GTRs. Front disks repaced at 43k. Other niggles have been easily repaired, but actually not had many.
Got parts to fit, - rear brake light switch, but thats it really. Touch wood. Just as with anything, she gets looked after.... And maybe I'm a bit anal at times. But it works.
Neil
Quote from: 1ka on May 03, 2013, 10:59:52 PM
Which is why the extra £4K in parts over four years on the GTR makes the BMW look attractive.
Does anyone know if the BMW has any similar high mileage issues?
I think you can reasonably assume that the BMW will also require some 'maintenance' during the course of ownership, I know that the new K1300 GT EE that I bought in 2010 certainly did
The R16 is a stunning bike and it's best to wait for Winston Smith to respond to your question, as he owns one and will no doubt provide you with some unbiased feedback. :yes:
Horses for courses I reckon, the GTR certainly isn't perfect ...........but what is ? BTW I'm on my third GTR :clap:
Quote from: Essex Boy on May 03, 2013, 07:41:28 PM
Appreciate your thoughts and advice guys, especially SirTo U but as my bike is only 15 months into its life I think that Kawasaki can fit me a new one under the warranty and then I think I will put a balloon or something similar from Mr Durex on it.
but what annoys me is that if you had to check and clean and fiddle with your car suspension once a month there would ne uproar.
EB.
Mine
went after 13~14 months and was replaced under warranty with no hassle. Bristol Kawasaki have been fairly good in getting things replaced under warranty. I make sure I give it a few twists once a week and it's been fine since. I might follow SirTou's advice and see if I can lube it too.
Quote from: SirToU on May 04, 2013, 12:02:00 AM
Personally, I think your being harsh....... Poor GTR.
Don't get me wrong, I think the GTR is a great all round bike. However, the running costs are far more than I expected them to be when compared to the FJR I had before. Same roads, same riding style yet it chews up discs and bearings. After 65K on the FJR it still had the original discs!
My bike is now 23 months old, has 12500 miles on the clock and so far I only had the front brake pads replaced a week ago.
Every time I tried the pre-load adjuster it turned so I assume it is still OK too.
And if Kawasaki keeps replacing shocks on warranty I guess they will do something about it sooner or later.
Let's see what the 2014 or 2015 models bring.
And since it looks like I have a Tuesday machine I'll keep it for another 2 years before trading it in for a new one. :yes:
Mine is just turned 4 yrs old and only covered 17 miles. Admittedly the original exhaust is unused in the garage but I wind the rear suspension adjuster in and out on a regular basis and it gives no issues.
I've replaced both sets of pads once and the only warranty work was the TP sensors at the end of the 4 year warranty.
As for comparisons with other bikes, a friend of mine had a new BMW K1300GT and had no end of electrical issues with it and he gave up and part ex'd it for a Pan
P
Quote from: patrick on May 04, 2013, 10:37:53 AM
Mine is just turned 4 yrs old and only covered 17 miles.
So you only rode it home after you collected it and left it in the garage ever since? :mfr_lol:
The guys at Kawasaki that I spoke to said that Head office will not bother re-designing the rear suspension system because it is only really the UK where they have a problem with wet, cold, salty conditions. It is cheaper for them to replace a few hundred UK suspensions under warranty than redesigning the system that works everywhere else just fine.
A bit like Ford that worked out it was cheaper to 'pay off' families that had lost loved ones in fire balls in their Pinto's rather than re-design the Fuel tank position.
The 'I look after my discs' frankly isn't the answer either. Kawasaki again said the reason why my 'Brown' 2010 never needed more than one set of pads and had the same discs through out 26,000 miles , while my 2012 version in Green is chewing through them isn't driving technique, it's because Kawasaki have been experimenting with different softness/hardness of pads and discs.
That has to be correct I reckon because my two bikes do/did exactly the same journeys every day of the working week and yet look at the difference.
Eb
Been watching this thread closely, did not want to say anything until today. I am on my fourth GTR now
1st - discs - re-call work
2nd - discs - re-call work
3rd - Nothing at all - re-call work already done
4th - New exhaust - New suspension Adjuster -- possible new sump, paint flaking off.
I have had my 4th GTR now for 3 weeks it is just 1 year old, and as you can see the above has been changed TODAY. While the machanics had it on the bench they noticed a small ( finger nail size ) ammount of paint that has flaked off near the drain plug. They have taken pictures of it and will submit it to Mr K as a warranty claim, i will keep you informed.
In my experience of owning this awesome bike, i would consider the bearings etc as a matter of periodic wear and tear items. As already said a bit of TLC goes a long way. Theres no way ( being a yorkshireman ) i would spend my hard earned on 4 GTRs if i did not think they were worth every penny. The above is all i have had problems with, nothing else, and all changed under warranty, no quibble and speedy service, ( J&S DONCASTER )
By the way my front mudguard has a 1" split in it at the tip, MR K told me they would never replace these under warranty because some tyre fitters do not take the guard off when changing the tyre, they simply pull the wheel out regardless --- BE WARNED !!!! -- it pays to take them a loose wheel.
Zed, that is interesting about the split with the front mudguard. I remember 2kwacks had that problem with his.
Hi LW, Gives Mr K a way out, but if anyone looking to buy a GTR maybe keep a close eye on the mudguard. i am a bit dubious regarding the sump flaking paint claim, cant say too much at the moment.
Since my ownership of this awesome bike i have had very few issues, when i did they were changed under warranty they were
1) warped Discs
2) Re-call work
3) Exhaust --paint flaking
4) suspension Adjuster seized
NIGGLES -- but easily fixed
1) easily stone chips on mudguard, and front fairing where it turns in to radiator
2) radiator sides get crugged up
3) wheels get really dirty and ground in dirt on rougher surfaces ( silver wheels ) would be better smooth all over
4) frame where heel plates are, the coating is rubbing away ( this is more my riding style as i rub my boot there ) maybe could be thicker coating or cover of some sort.
5) paint rubbing off under seat where it meets tank
6) paint rubbing off bar ends where it meets grip
7) various nuts and bolts lose their coating and become discoloured
8) Rubber on footpegs wear quickly ( but i do use the bike very frequently )
9) Brake line ends/ couplings become discoloured quickly, stainless steel would be better for a few £££ more.
Considering all the above, most are coating issues and just my opinion. I would not change this bike for any other.
Zedmeister, are you sure that you and I aren't riding/sharing the same bike :mfr_lol:
Everything that you have listed is identical on my bike, everyone.
Shame Kawasaki don't see these things happening time and time again and do something about them
Essex Boy.
Quote from: Essex Boy on May 05, 2013, 07:00:04 PM
Zedmeister, are you sure that you and I aren't riding/sharing the same bike :mfr_lol:
Everything that you have listed is identical on my bike, everyone.
Shame Kawasaki don't see these things happening time and time again and do something about them
Essex Boy.
Hi EB, yes if only they would, but i feel they may well have changed some components when they decide to release the new model. As for now i would think they are happy to change the parts under warranty.
I feel the same - must be my bike too... :-)
:agree: with a few of those niggles, the wheels are finished in a 'crackle/rough' coating and if the finish was 'smooth/gloss' I reckon that they would be both easier to clean and less likely to get muck stuck to the surface, they'd look better too :yes:
Any one know a good way to keep those Silver rough surface wheels clean.
Mine are horrible.
EB
Quote from: Essex Boy on May 06, 2013, 12:34:07 PM
Any one know a good way to keep those Silver rough surface wheels clean.
Mine are horrible.
EB
EB they are a pain in the arse, a cloth with WD40 can help to remove road grime, but keep the WD away from your brake friction areas
Quote from: Essex Boy on May 06, 2013, 12:34:07 PM
Any one know a good way to keep those Silver rough surface wheels clean.
Mine are horrible.
EB
White spirit (turpentine) will do the trick and you don't have to worry if some spills on to your brakes since it just evaporates.
+1 with Mecki on that one ... The turps will get rid of any tar spots or other muck .. Then wipe around and finish off with a bit of polish ...
Such a fiddly job getting in between the spokes and discs. Turps though is a new one on me. Do you have to neutralise it after in any way after ?.
EB
I used a cream cleaner and a toothbrush took a good hour to do, but they did come up like new, unfortunately they crugged up quicker than they kept clean.
I used to use Autoglym intensive tar remover, that also works but obviously turps etc will be considerably cheaper.
Just like the alloys on a car ..... give up and leave em covered in :shit: :whistling:
Tried White Spirit, didn't do much on my clagged wheels.
Tried some old alloy wheel cleaner which was better but the wheels still look like crap. Can't get rid of that 'ground-in' crud.