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No Not Again ( Suspension )

Started by Essex Boy, May 02, 2013, 09:52:17 PM

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Essex Boy

The guys at Kawasaki that I spoke to said that Head office will not bother re-designing the rear suspension system because it is only really the UK where they have a problem with wet, cold, salty conditions. It is cheaper for them to replace a few hundred UK suspensions under warranty than redesigning the system that works everywhere else just fine.

A bit like Ford that worked out it was cheaper to 'pay off' families that had lost loved ones in fire balls in their Pinto's rather than re-design the Fuel tank position.

The 'I look after my discs' frankly isn't the answer either. Kawasaki again said the reason why my 'Brown' 2010 never needed more than one set of pads and had the same discs through out 26,000 miles , while my 2012 version in Green is chewing through them isn't driving technique, it's because Kawasaki have been experimenting with different softness/hardness of pads and discs.

That has to be correct I reckon because my two bikes do/did exactly the same journeys every day of the working week and yet look at the difference.

Eb

zedmeister

#16
Been watching this thread closely, did not want to say anything until today. I am on my fourth GTR now

1st -  discs - re-call work 
2nd - discs - re-call work 
3rd - Nothing at all -  re-call work already done       
4th - New exhaust - New suspension Adjuster -- possible new sump, paint flaking off.

I have had my 4th GTR now for 3 weeks it is just 1 year old, and as you can see the above has been changed TODAY. While the machanics had it on the bench they noticed a small ( finger nail size ) ammount of paint that has flaked off near the drain plug. They have taken pictures of it and will submit it to Mr K as a warranty claim, i will keep you informed.

In my experience of owning this awesome bike, i would consider the bearings etc as a matter of periodic wear and tear items. As already said a bit of TLC goes a long way. Theres no way ( being a yorkshireman )  i would spend my hard earned on 4 GTRs if i did not think they were worth every penny. The above is all i have had problems with, nothing else, and all changed under warranty, no quibble and speedy service, ( J&S DONCASTER )

By the way my front mudguard has a 1" split in it at the tip, MR K told me  they would never replace these under warranty because some tyre fitters do not take the guard off when changing the tyre, they simply pull the wheel out regardless  --- BE WARNED !!!!  -- it pays to take them a loose wheel.
 
get a grip and deal with it

Lonewolf

Zed, that is interesting about the split with the front mudguard. I remember 2kwacks had that problem with his.

zedmeister

#18
Hi LW, Gives Mr K a way out, but if anyone looking to buy a GTR maybe keep a close eye on the mudguard. i am a bit dubious regarding the sump flaking paint claim, cant say too much at the moment.

Since my ownership of this awesome bike i have had very few issues, when i did they were changed under warranty they were

1) warped Discs
2) Re-call work
3) Exhaust --paint flaking
4) suspension Adjuster seized

NIGGLES  -- but easily fixed

1) easily stone chips on mudguard, and front fairing where it turns in to radiator
2) radiator sides get crugged up
3) wheels get really dirty and ground in dirt on rougher surfaces ( silver wheels ) would be better smooth all over
4) frame where heel plates are, the coating is rubbing away ( this is more my riding style as i rub my boot there ) maybe could be thicker coating or cover of some sort.
5) paint rubbing off under seat where it meets tank
6) paint rubbing off bar ends where it meets grip
7) various nuts and bolts lose their coating and become discoloured
8) Rubber on footpegs wear quickly ( but i do use the bike very frequently )
9) Brake line ends/ couplings become discoloured quickly, stainless steel would be better for a few £££ more.

Considering all the above, most are coating issues and just my opinion. I would not change this bike for any other.

get a grip and deal with it

Essex Boy

Zedmeister, are you sure that you and I aren't riding/sharing the same bike  :mfr_lol:

Everything that you have listed is identical on my bike, everyone.

Shame Kawasaki don't see these things happening time and time again and do something about them

Essex Boy.

zedmeister

Quote from: Essex Boy on May 05, 2013, 07:00:04 PM
Zedmeister, are you sure that you and I aren't riding/sharing the same bike  :mfr_lol:

Everything that you have listed is identical on my bike, everyone.

Shame Kawasaki don't see these things happening time and time again and do something about them

Essex Boy.
Hi EB, yes if only they would, but i feel they may well have changed some components when they decide to release the new model. As for now i would think they are happy to change the parts under warranty.
get a grip and deal with it

SirToU

I feel the same - must be my bike too... :-)
Ride it like it was stolen...
Motogymkhana UK Champion 2011-2014

O.C.

:agree: with a few of those niggles, the wheels are finished in a 'crackle/rough' coating and if the finish was 'smooth/gloss' I reckon that they would be both easier to clean and less likely to get muck stuck to the surface, they'd look better too  :yes:
BE KIND...


ROG .

Essex Boy

Any one know a  good way to keep those Silver rough surface wheels clean.
Mine are horrible.
EB

O.C.

Quote from: Essex Boy on May 06, 2013, 12:34:07 PM
Any one know a  good way to keep those Silver rough surface wheels clean.
Mine are horrible.
EB

EB they are a pain in the arse, a cloth with WD40 can help to remove road grime, but keep the WD away from your brake friction areas
BE KIND...


ROG .

mecki

Quote from: Essex Boy on May 06, 2013, 12:34:07 PM
Any one know a  good way to keep those Silver rough surface wheels clean.
Mine are horrible.
EB

White spirit (turpentine) will do the trick and you don't have to worry if some spills on to your brakes since it just evaporates.
The later you brake the longer you go fast.

Rusty

+1 with Mecki on that one ... The turps will get rid of any tar spots or other muck .. Then wipe around and finish off with a bit of polish ...

Essex Boy

Such a fiddly job getting in between the spokes and discs. Turps though is a new one on me. Do you have to neutralise it after in any way after ?.

EB

zedmeister

I used a cream cleaner and a toothbrush took a good hour to do, but they did come up like new, unfortunately they crugged up quicker than they kept clean.
get a grip and deal with it

Lonewolf

I used to use Autoglym intensive tar remover, that also works but obviously turps etc will be considerably cheaper.