[Guide] How to perform an oil change

[Kwikasfuki]

Disclaimer: This is to show how I do an oil change. Please consult a professional for your oil changes. Do not attempt on your own as hot oil will burn and scald. You may also invalidate your warranty.

Firstly, here's the the toolset required. What's missing from the photo is the magnetic telescope rod that allows for easy retrieval of nuts and bolts



Also need an old towel as an oil rag



Any excuse to take the bike out and get it up to temperature. Oil is best removed when hot



Get it on the centre stand



The sump drain plug has moved on the newer models



Had to take care when removing the drain plug. The oil will squirt out. Did I mention its HOT?



Somewhere in that blackness is the plug. That oil is HOT. So I'll use my magnetic pickup tool to retrieve it



Here's a better view of the oil filter. Most of the time this is on tight. It should never be on that tight as it only should ever be torqued to 13 ft lbs. However, torquing it is hard, so most dealers over tighten. However, this can ruin the threads



I had to move the oi drain pan out of the way, so temporarily put the drain plug back in. Then applied the oil filter removal tool



Close up here. It really grips the oil filter



Now to appy some oil to the new filter before assembly





Reattach the new filter and hand tightened. Then grabbed the removal tool and tightened a touch more to make it nice and snug.



Replaced the old crush washer with new. Didn't have to do this as old one was fine, but the cost of a new one is a few pennies



Cleaned the silver area and applied a bit of oil. This is where the crush washer will mate



The sump plug needs to be torqued at 22ft lbs





So, oil has been drained, filter replaced, sump plug back on with new washer and all correcly tightened



And here is the oil I'm using. Yes, I know, I've gone for fully synthetic. I prefer using it once my bike has over 20k miles. The large container has 4L and the smaller 1L making 5L in total. To get the 4.7L in the bike, all the 4L container will be used, and 0.7L of the smaller container



The containers show the volume of oil in them which is handy. On the smaller one, I shall stop when I get to 300ml



Time to add the oil to the bike. Make sure you clean around the filler plug as there can be dirt and grime that may fall in





And what it looks like with the plug removed



Make sure the funnel is cleaned as well. I use mine for allsorts



And start pouring in the oil.



Replace the oil filler plug once all the oil from the 4L container plus 0.7L oil of the smaller container has been added



All the 4L container used. And only 0.7L of the smaller container used



Oil sump is nice and full. This should settle down once I go for a ride



But before I do, check, check and check again!



And after the ride that is pretty much perfect



Finally, get rid of the oil in a responsible manner



And that's how I do my oil changes. Doesn't take long

[viper]

Interesting point that you get your oil HOT and then let the plug go, ive always got my oil warm and kept hold of the plug, the hotter the oil is the more in theory will drop out, I think I will start doing that in future. Ive also fitted a magnetic sump plug to keep hold of any metal debris, i know the engine is non magnetic aluminium but I still see some traces steel debris on the magnet


Worth noting that there is a large hex socket available which is an exact fit, i find this much easier than the clamp tool and easier to torque up

[Kwikasfuki]

I did have one of those.  knows where I put it (see my thread on organising my tools).

Good point about the magnetic drain plug. I will remember to buy one next time.

[Stephen.Stallebrass]

Good post, thanks. Yeah, when my service is due I'll replace the drain plug with a magnetic one same as my GS. I've always used K&N oil filters, they have the nut on the end which is very useful. Some people put oil in the new filter before replacing it, don't know why, I never have with the GS, and I won't with the GTR either. I only ever put oil on the rubber seal not in the threads.

[Alfor]

Interesting point that you get your oil HOT and then let the plug go, ive always got my oil warm and kept hold of the plug, the hotter the oil is the more in theory will drop out, I think I will start doing that in future. Ive also fitted a magnetic sump plug to keep hold of any metal debris, i know the engine is non magnetic aluminium but I still see some traces steel debris on the magnet


Worth noting that there is a large hex socket available which is an exact fit, i find this much easier than the clamp tool and easier to torque up

Replaced my filter a few weeks ago and this tool simple twisted the filter and distorted it. Think the dealer must have over tightened it when they did it's last oil change. Now have both tools just in case 

[Lonewolf]

Handy little topic, I like the tool you have used for removing the oil filter, is it home made, I've never seen anything like that.

It goes without saying also I'm sure that after Asif has changed the oil he washes the bike, perhaps one day he'll do a step by step photo guide on that. 

[pistole]

Good guide. Just a couple of points :

1. you can reuse a crush washer (my crush washer has gone through 3 oil changes thus far and is still going strong),

2. before draining , open the oil filler cap. This allows the oil to freely drain since it doesn't have to "fight" a vacuum.

3. if you're an old hand , a torque wrench is optional. If you've EVER spun a thread on anything , buy a torque wrench.

4. change the rear-drive fluid with every oil change. So easy to do , so little oil and results in peace of mind.

5. before doing the oil change , do clean the bike. If my bike looked like the one in the photo , I'd be very disappointed in myself ... 

.

[Kwikasfuki]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Britool-E117117B-Belt-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0051HFZ9I

that's the one

[Lonewolf]

Asif, many thanks.

Pistole, for the sake of maybe ten pence I'd replace the crush washer just for piece of mind. Regrettably with all the crap we have on our roads over here in the UK, getting the bike dirty is just one of life's little pains. If memory serves me correctly you live in Singapore, (lucky bugger), been a few times as you know and your roads are first class and your weather isn't too bad either, despite the occasional storms and heavy downpours.

[pistole]

Yeah , understood. You chaps have some really awful weather over there.

last point : in the owner's manual , Kawasaki does not actually specify semi or fully synthetic. They only have specifications for the weight of the oil and the JASO/MA rating.

have run this Sikolene Comp4 before but found that the performance degraded too quickly. Have had much better experience from Motul (5100 , 300V , etc).

.

and a picture re our weather here :



.

[Kwikasfuki]

Someone needs to do a guide on how to clean bike!

[O.C.]

Someone needs to do a guide on how to clean bike!

And I'm thinking that may not be you Asif 

[Kwikasfuki]

And I'm thinking that may not be you Asif 

no, but I want to give then bike a good clean this weekend

[Lonewolf]

no, but I want to give the bike a good clean this weekend

He might want to, but he wont! 

[davetherave]

Great post 

Some very interesting tips there too.