Seized caliper bolts

[carvern]

Front caliper bolts are seized on right side, tried all usual things, heat, impact driver, wd40 etc, now stripped the heads, anybody got any ideas as how to get them off. Small job of changing brake pads and greasing front axle spindle has now turned into a pain!!!

[Kwikasfuki]

I feel for you dude. However all is not lost as the bolts protude outwards.
You can get a gripper onto them. Or file two sides and get an adjustable spanner onto it.

[Kwikasfuki]

When you retorque them make sure it's 25 ft lbs
Sounds like someone over torque them. I also put copper grease on mine

[shaggs147]

If it's an allen bolt you could try hammering a torx bit into the end of the bolt. If you're lucky it should bite into the bolt enough to allow you to turn it. Good luck!

[Lonewolf]

Did you get any joy, or are they still stuck?

[carvern]

Still stuck fast! Read all these bad reports of breaking screw extractors so not going to go down that route. Hex heads of bolts are a complete mess now with my efforts. Only thing I can think off left to do is grind the heads of so I can slide Caliper of bolts then should not be to much of a problem to get the remaining studs off.

Or any other suggestions pleaseeeeeeeeeee.

[Kwikasfuki]

Try and get a pair of locking pliers onto it.

Otherwise, I'd just put the other ones back in, torque to 25 ft lbs, and ride down to the local bike mechanic and get him to remove it.

Screw extractors are extremely fragile and once they are broken, its hard to drill them out. I know from bitter experience. Never put a socket onto a screw extractor. The  just snap.

What worked for me was locking pliers. I got them on really tight (can't stress how tight enough) and then s-l-o-w-l-y applied force (can't stress the slowly part enough either). This was onto a circular bolt as well. Imagine my relief when it turned. You may have to file the bolt on either side to get a better grip.

Grinding the head off should work as well. Would be interesting to know if they were just over tightened or if there was some form of thread locker on them

One tip when removing allen/hex bolts. Make sure the socket or key is fully inserted. Lessens the risk of the bolt rounding. Again, from bitter experience.

[Martin#30]

My favourite trick is to use a dremel, and grind a slot all the way across the ruined head. You can then use a meaty flat blade screwdriver to lever it off.

Martin.

[shaggs147]

If all else fails, and you're brave enough, carefully drill the head of the allen screw off, and slide off the calliper.
You can then get a good grip on the shank of the remaining part of the bolt with either mole grips or stilsons.
When drilling the head of the bolt off, start off with a small drill bit, which should sit nicely in the middle of the allen bolt head. Drill down about 5mm. Then go up in drill bit diameter and do the same. Continue to do this slowly in stages, then the head should come off.
You are not looking to drill out the complete head of the bolt. If you do this correctly, the head should just break away from the bolt shank when your drill bit diameter almost matches that of the bolt shank diameter.
Hope that makes sense!   

[carvern]

Drilling the head was my final thought, will let you know how it goes.

[Kwikasfuki]

What have you tried so far out of curiosity?

[shaggs147]

Good luck with it all.
Can't believe how stubborn the buggers are though. Sounds like they are either rusted in or have been bathed in bloody loctite. 

[carvern]

Have tried torx bits, impact driver, heat ( that succeeded in loosening the brake fluid bolt and fluid started to drip out ) various sized Allen keys, cross cutting the head and using a flat bit errrrrrr wd40, hammer and bolster to force the head round. Think that's it, hence now going to hopefully drill the heads off.

[Kwikasfuki]

Wow. Sounds like thread locker.

I know this is going to sound daft, but I've heard that sometimes you can loosen them by turning clockwise before anti clockwise.

Worth giving it a shot

[shaggs147]

Yes that's true, it sometimes breaks the corrosion/seal between the threads.
Think that the head drilling is the final option now though, by the sound of the state of the bolt heads. I just hope that somebody hasn't had a go at it previously and crossed the threads somehow.
It seems strange this, as using heat on the bolts should have allowed it to move no matter how much corrosion or loctite was on the bolt.