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Hi folks,

Bike passed it's MoT the other day, needed rear wheel bearings and a new rear disc, but not bad for an 09 with 74K on the clock.

Tester said the lower suspension linkage bearings had a little bit of play in them and I've been searching for a kit that contains the 3 x Needle rollers required. Can't find one, though the individual bearings are available.

I've seen a complete linkage on Ebay from a 2016 ZZR which (on first glance) looks identical.

Can anyone tell me if these two parts are the same between the GTR and the ZZR?


Are brake discs etc also the same? Probably need fronts changing in the near future too....

I could really do with a list of what is the same & what isn't between the two derivatives - would make spares hunting far easier!

Many thanks,

Anyone got a screen for sale for an 09? Std or oversize, all considered :-)

Here's some pics that should have gone on the last post.

The horizontal jub clip goes round the back of the slider to anchor the thing, the vertical one keeps it in place as I move the screen up & down. Not got full movement, but enough to adjust as required.

Mine broke. Basically it lets the screen rock on the height mechanism. Bodged it with jubilee clips & cable ties. Still like that now.

Anyone got a std screen for sale for an 09, btw?

Anyone got a link to the brackets on Ebay? Or what terms people use to find one? Not having much joy & I need a new screen AND bracket!

Many thanks!

Yup, that's the part. What the photo's don't show is the opposite side of the bottom section, where the green circle is. The left hand side when viewed from the front has the part that wraps around the back of the silver centre rail. This is where mine has fractured and broken off. I have lost all the bits from it including the plastic guide that apparently should be there! :-)

I wound up riding back from Leeds in that heavy storm the other week, being battered left right & centre on the M62. I'm wondering if this is what weakened the bracket in the first place.

I intend to see if I can bodge it with a jubilee clip or two this weekend. Will keep you informed.

Regards to all.

If you've got the bits off the brackets the just get them welded together

I wish I did. The part that's missing is the bit that wraps round the back of the centre rail & anchors the lot from tilting. The mechanism still works but the screen tips and rests on the covers & plastics & directs the airflow right at me instead ov over me now!

If I can't locate one I'll have to find an ally welder who might be able to fabricate a piece to weld to my remaining portion of bracket.

Thanks for the replies, folks.

It's the ally(?) cross bracket between the two pulley actuated screen mounts. It's retained by 2 screws per side and it's the bottom section that passes behind the centre rail to stop the thing tipping that has fractured and disappeared.

There is a taller touring screen on the bike, fitted by the previous owner, & although I do tend to drop the screen to it's lowest position when on the motorway, over the past 12 months & 12K miles it's obviously weakend it & given up the ghost.

Kawasaki want 600+ Euro's for the "whole assembly", when that one part is all I need.

Hi folks,

Anyone know of a breaker carrying parts for an 09 GTR?

The bracket for the powerscreen has broken, causing the screen to tip forwards & backwards. Apparently it's a "whole assembly" thing from Kawasaki, as per bloody usual, & after being fleeced for a reg/rec last month I won't be buying the "whole assembly" from them.

Regards,

PCG

AGM battery worth the extra?

Got a Dynavolt one at present, buike is an 09 & don't know if it's ever been replaced or if this is the OEM one. I've had the bike since March & it now has 52K miles on it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motobatt-Upgrade-Motorcycle-Battery-KAWASAKI-1400-1400GTR-07-14L-BS-/170915010020?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item27cb5415e4

BTW if your battery is pooped ( cell gone ) you won't see above 12.5v when its connected to the bike when its running, as the meter will only measure what the battery can accept, not what the bike wants to put in.

Thanks for that, much appreciated. This is the sort of info I'm after and this forum is such a good place for it! Explains a lot too.

Get paid on Monday so reckon I'll get a new battery & see if that cures it.

As for alarms, only the factory fit as part of KIPASS. Red light flashing on the dash.

Regards, one an' all.

Thanks for the replies, it is appreciated.

My apologies to Ant, that remark about the Optimate wasn't aimed at you in particular, I phrased it rather badly! It was meant to be a general statement regarding Optimates, which I know are a good bit of kit, but I have no way of setting one up right now.

I hear what you're saying about the battery, Viper, & yes, it could be that, but, wouldn't I be seeing 13.5V when the bike was running? Would be so simple if it was showing me decent voltage while running but then losing it overnight, which is why I suspect something else. Don't really want to spend £70 on a new battery when it's a duff wire somewhere.

Regards & TIA's

Yes, it charges & holds it's charge, so something on the bike is draining it.

Please don't reply with "use an Optimate" because that is not possible & that won't cure the fact that the bike isn't charging the battery properly anyway.

Hi folks,

Got a problem & wondering if anyone has had similar. Basically, the bike isn't charging the battery well enough.

Seemed to start after I replaced the 2 City Lights and a Headlamp bulb.

Alternator tests ok at 75V at about 5000 RPM.

Not been able to test the reg/rec fully, since I can't get the other plug off it!

Readings at the battery are about 12.5V when revved, when it should be 13.5V. This is with a multi-meter, not just relying on the dash Voltmeter.
It goes up a bit when I pull the fuse for the main headlights. I had to ride it 25 miles the other week, so pulled the fuse, got home, turned bike off, turned on again - battery showing 10.6V & not enough to restart the bike.
It's the same even when I disconnect the heated grips etc I got.
Battery been charged & left off the bike for 48hrs, still showing 12.6V when on the bench.

Now, something peculiar happened this afternoon when I went back to look at it again. Put the charged battery back on, meter on it, showing 12.6V. Started the bike, charge showed as 13.4V at idle, then up to 15V when revved. readings like this for a couple of mins, then it dropped again, never going over 12.5V & sometimes dropping below that when I put the fuse for the headlights back in etc.

I realise that 12.5V should be enough when running to stop the battery discharging, but it should be up at 13.5V shouldn't it? Otherwise short hops will drain the battery & I'll get stranded again!

Any ideas where to look? Could those City Lights be the cause? They're std bulbs from Halfords.

Regards & TIA's.

Hi folks,

I had the recovery fella remove these 3 clips when we had to drain the water from my fuel tank a few weeks ago.

The centres should unscrew quite a distance - (8 - 10mm maybe more?). It's not a question of a half or quarter turn, for example. If they're unscrewed all the way they let the 4 prongs collapse inwards to let you draw the clip out.

Installation is the reverse. Mine came out quite easily once the centres were unscrewed properly.

Just my observation.

Regards to all.