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Highett's Border Run 2013

Like all good rides this one went pretty much to plan with an unplanned event on the return trip which could have ended up a lot worse than it did.

I worked all day Wednesday, I planned to hit the road after work at 1800, ride to Nyah to meet a friend from Melbourne, slack off on thursday, camp over night, Leave from Nyah on the Friday and do the Border Run.

Both of us were completing a SS1600 as well which we executed nicely, paper work pending.

I planned on having an attempt at a BB2500 on the way back, Tom was going to accompany me to Peterborough where he would turn of and head for home.

We left the Border Village just before Midnight Saturday.

We had fog and rain then just on daylight I ended up being ill on the side of the road for quite some time, something that I had eaten/drank at the Border Village before we left disagreed with me without going into detail I was not very well and it took its toll on me, After a not so enjoyable period and some sleep on the side of the road we got going again.

We stayed on the planned route and along the way we stopped at Davo's Memorial to pay respects.

The ride through Horrocks Pass was enjoyable, at Peterborough Tom and I parted company and we both headed for home.

Tom to Melbourne and me to Singleton.

Time wise the BB2500 was possible but as I had used up most of my restime being sick I decide that I would let it go for another day, No point tempting fate...

I camped Sunday night about 75 Kms before Wilcannia at Springs Creek,

-31.72314 142.685453

Nice spot and had a 12 hour rest then got going arriving home at 1820 Monday afternoon.

Overall a good trip, no close encounters with any of our fury friends and no problems with the bike.

Back to work on Tuesday, I would have like an extra day off but I struggled to get the leave for the trip as it was.

Photos and video Gallery Links are below for those that would like to have a look.

Ride Planning
http://highett.smugmug.com/LDR/Border-Run-2013/31104044_cvFvXs

Wednesday 31 July - Map & Photos
http://highett.smugmug.com/LDR/Wednesday/31104145_rcnVTD

Thursday 1 August - Map & Photos
http://highett.smugmug.com/LDR/Thursday/31104199_HQvcZv

Friday/Saturday 2/3 August - Map & Photos
http://highett.smugmug.com/LDR/FridaySaturday/31104388_HVsHSD

Sunday 4 August - Map & Photos
http://highett.smugmug.com/LDR/Sunday/31104585_mG2ZJx

Monday 5 August - Map & Photos
http://highett.smugmug.com/LDR/Monday/31106379_9WjJ4L

Videos
http://highett.smugmug.com/LDR/Videos/31106494_2sv2dj

Cheers

Paul

After reading about Brake Light Modulators I decided to purchase and Install one on my 2011 GTR.

I did some research and decided on the Vizi-tec because it was bike specific, Plug and Play and was very small and had 10 preset algorithms to choose from

Delivery was 11 days and came without instruction for installation, Vizi-tec did say  that a user guide and installation instructions were available for download on their web site.

There is a user manual which is comprehensive but no specific installation guide for the 1400GTR, there is a generic installation video though

http://www.vizi-tec.com/supabrake-2/

However installation only requires accessing the brake light lead and plug, getting to the brake light plug required moving some bits out of the way to create some room.

Packaging:



Normally you would remove the tool box but mine has a Fuse Block installed in it and will require the wiring to be removed first



To isolate the Fuse Block I removed the fuse in the positive wire that comes direct from the battery and supplies power to the Fuse Block



Fuse Block and Toolbox removed, wires put to the side and the foam block with the system diagnostic plugs removed and put to the side



The brake light and indicator wires and plugs are tucked up behind this module, moving it is easy as it is held in place buy by a rubber harness attached on each side



just lifted the module out, I did not bother unplugging it just moved it to the side to make some space



Reach under and carefully pull out the wires and plugs, Plug Identification as pictured



Split the brake light plug and plug in the modulator, tidy up the wires and plugs, some small black zip ties came with the modulator, I used those and put all the wires and plugs back where they came from along with the modulator.



Put everything back the way it was



The Modulator has a delay, this delay is for when you are in stop & start traffic so you don't end up annoying the crap out of the person behind you.

The video below shows the Brake light Modulating, then normal operation and then Modulating.

This is the factory default setting, there are 10 in all.

Left click on the picture to view the video

Highett - great videos. Have you got any showing how to remove the lowers and the front lowers?
I have to do this next week to take them into the spray shop and I'm dreading taking the plastic apart.
Also the coloured trim on the wing mirror :(

Love to say yes but unfortunately not at this point, I only just got the video camera so any work on the bike will be recorded in the future.


I have removed the lowers before and they are not a big deal,


Do you have Fred Harmon's Maintenance DVD Set for the 1400 GTR [size=78%]http://www.angelridevideos.com/[/size]


I highly recommend them and a copy of the service Manual is a must have if you intend to work on the GTR yourself.


When I first got my GTR I was a bit intimidated by it and reluctant to do anything other than ride it, [/size]Now I have installed all my Farkles and have no fear of pulling it apart,[size=78%]


I am not interested in doing major engine pull downs just the basic service and tire fitting.


Cheers


Paul

He's not the brightest bulb in the box isn't mecki, you need to write things down for him. 

Perhaps I should have included an instruction on how to load the video - Next time.......


Cheers


Paul

Sorry, but I don't see the fairing coming off at all. 

Try clicking on a picture to load the video

[Walking the GTR out of Garage]

ZG1400CBF (2011)

I only have limited time at the moment due to work commitments so larger tasks have to be done over few weeks.

I am intending to install a McCruise, Today's job was to remove the left and right rear middle fairing.

I have Canyon Cages fitted, I also modded the fairing to fit and remove without removing the cages.

I have read numerous posts about fitting and removing the fairing so I decided to video the process.

I did this outside because there was more room and light.

Walking the GTR out of Garage



Remove Fuel Tank Cover



Remove Left Inner Cover









Remove Left Rear Middle Fairing











Remove Right Inner Cover







Remove Right Rear Middle Fairing











Walking the GTR into Garage

Securing the Pannier Lock Cylinder

In a previous post I demonstrated how insecure a locked pannier was and how easily the lock cylinder could be removed allowing the pannier to be taken off the bike or access to the contents - This post demonstrates how to secure the lock cylinder to prevent removal and improve pannier security.

Remove the handle and locking assembly from the Pannier.



From inside undo the screws and it comes out easily.



Remove the Lock Cylinder - Its not hard, you can make the tool to remove lock cylinder  from a used or new hacksaw blade as depicted.



Click on the picture and it will play a video and show how to remove the Lock Cylinder from the handle assembly using the above tool.



Drill a hole through the bottom, drill through the aluminum backing as well - try and make it central - the hole only needs to big enough for the screw to pass through without binding.





Enlarge the hole in the backing plate to accept the screw head -  be careful not to drill into the plastic underneath.



Drill a hole in the end of the lock cylinder to suit the size screw you intend to use, ideally drilling and tapping a thread would be the best method but in this example I used a self taping screw.

Be very careful here not to over drill as it will damage the key cylinder and your key will not work anymore.



Cylinder with key removed.



Cylinder with the key inserted - when the securing screw is fitted if it extends too deep then the key will not fit correctly and will not open the pannier.



Lock cylinder drilled.



Lock cylinder securing screw in place.



Tested and working.



This was all done on a spare handle lock assembly I have.

Its very easy and does not require any expensive tools to complete and takes about half an hour for each pannier, be careful drilling the holes, I used a hand held drill but this would be easier and more accurate with a drill press.

Cheers

Paul

For other bikes I don't know, different makes of panni r or top boxes may be different.
Fuel cap seems to be different, I did give it a try just to see so that was pleasing.
Given what the cost of the Pannier, you would have though it would be secure :(

Cheers

Paul

Update  7/4/13

I had a closer look at the spare lock tumbler that I had  and realised that I could have saved myself a bit of frustration had I research locks a little more, removing these is even easier than I first thought.

A removal tool made from a used hacksaw blade, 1st tool was too narrow at the tip, it worked but took a lot of fiddling, because it was too narrow it slipped off the locking clip.

The second tool worked as quick as the key, and because with the tumbler removed a flat blade screw drive would be needed to reach in to unlock the pannier I made the tool double ended, one end to remove the tumbler the other end to unlock the pannier.

Here's a photo the tools and lock tumbler.



Click on the Picture to view the video:



Cheers

Paul

I couldn't agree more, but there are some over-zealous jobsworth police around here who will "do" you at the drop of a hat.  My son was done for an alleged small number plate.  We had all the paperwork with us to say it was OK, but he just said that he had a target to meet, had his little template and hard luck.  No comment on the Kerker exhaust!

Agreed,
We have them here too,
Some will do you for the slightest thing.
Bit sad really when it gets nit picky like that


Cheers


Paul

No worries Burchy,
Your prompt on the UK regs got me to check ours, so all is good.
I have ordered the bright yellow and bright white, they are small change cheap with free delivery.


I will post a photo later of what they look like.


Cheers


Paul

Obviously Australia is different but based on what was said I checked out the NSW Transport Vehicle Regulations and white and  yellow are the only colors allowed as running or parking lights on the front.


So thanks for the heads up Burchy 


So I will see what the yellow looks like


Cheers


Paul

Highett (Paul). I see you are with Ulysses. I'm with the Canberra Branch (Branch secretary). Perhaps we'll catch up - Not at this years' AGM though as I will not be there. Can you please also advise what is the GTR-AUS group all about. Do you have regular ride meets, and where are the majority based?.

Thanks,
Chris, Ulysses #59093

Catching up would be good, your not far from me as I am in Singleton.


I am not going to the AGM, timing is all wrong for me


GTR-Aus is a resource site, a lot of GTR info there for both 1000 and 1400 GTR's, go and have a look.


http://gtr1000.yuku.com/


Check your PM's, You have one from me


Cheers


Paul

Good idea.

Can you get black ones as that's the colour bike I have?

Alan

(Well it is April 1st)

Good one Allan 

I had the same problem Paul. My pillion was not able to put her feet on the pegs properly and I also bought the Projektd lowering kit thinking this would be the answer.

This then caused another problem as she is a short ass and would put her feet in the canyon cage when the panniers were off because she couldn't reach the pegs comfortably. I needed to stop this so always keep the panniers on and bought these instead. They are adjustable and was able to put them in the perfect position for her.

I went for the 30mm ones but they also do a 50mm & 23mm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=kawasaki+1400+adjustable+vario+footrests&rt=nc

You can also buy them from the manufacturers.

http://www.mfw-wolf.de/en/Vario-and-Replacement-Footpegs/Vario-Footpeg-System/Vario-Footpeg-Mounts/Vario-Pillion-Footpeg-Mounts/Vario-Pillion-Footpeg-Mounts-Kawasaki2

Good solution there Debs, thanks for the links too

Cheers

Paul