Messages

Probably not much, although I have heard a few on the U.S. ZG/GTR forum.

Welcome! 
I would definitely recommend a radiator guard or fender extender.  I have a guard made by ProjektD out of Taiwan (great customer service!).  I had my bike for about 3 weeks and was doing a good washing.  I noticed 3 LARGE dings in the radiator fins!  Luckily none punctured the veins.  I ordered my radiator guard the same day.
The 2010 has a bit different tire compound than the '08/'09 stock tires, but it would still be a good idea to start researching tires now.  Michelin PR2 (Pilot Road 2, dual compound) is a good all around choice, but there are many to choose from.

HA, that is probably why he has to sell, to pay for that house!

PR2s are a good all around tire.  There are quite a few "stickier" tires out there for better handling.  Not that I do it all that often, but I can scape the pegs with confidence on the PR2s.  There is a nice long 4 lane left hand sweeper going around Atlanta Motor Speedway.  You are scraping your pegs at almost full throttle going into the triple digits!  The bike gets a little squirrely shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th.  What a rush!
I have heard PR2s don't do well before they are warmed up or in cold weather.  I ride whenever it is 50'F or above.  It doesn't happen very often here in Atlanta.  They do well in the rain on the superslab (freeways), which happens VERY often here!

Our says Concours14.  I am constantly asked what it is.  I want to put the 1400GTR stickers on my bags.

If anyone feels like removing (or has removed them) the 1400GTR stickers, I would pay for shipping them to me.......

My wife loves getting on.  I have a Givi V46 with a back pad.  When that is off, I have a full back rest for her.  Makes it much more comfortable and she feels more confident.

I have a V-Stream and it is great, as long as you don't mind movement on the edges of the screen, I have gotten used to it.

6'2" (1.9 M) with a 33" (84 cm) inseam 225 lbs (102 kilos).  At full up, the wind just clears my helmet (not much back pressure), at full down it hits my chest below the collar bone.  Had it from day one (17,000 miles).

With the economy here in the US, people are having to do strange things to keep their head above water.  That is a really good deal even here.  Maybe having finacial trouble and HAS to sell it.

Non-abs 2010 will be fine.  The ABS model on the other hand would make the KTRC not perform as it should.  KTRC (Traction Control-prevents rear wheel spin, like on gravel) uses 3 things to control wheel spin; Air, Fuel, Engine Timing.  The secondary butterflies control the Air Portion of KRTC by closing them.  Removing them might disable KTRC or may not affect it all.  Someone just needs to try it (keeping all the screws and flys to re-assemble, if necessary) and report back on the KTRC.  I wouldn't hesitate if I owned a 2010, because KTRC isn't important to me.

My crap OEMs that lasted 3700 miles.  The front was scalloped and the rear had squared off.  I went to the PR2 and was amazed at the difference.  I got around 12,000 on the first set.  I am not afraid to drag the pegs.  Just put a second set on.  The front definitely wears out first, which is surprising on a 151 HP bike (dyno'd, flies out, AreaP exhaust, BMC filter, PC-V)

'09 with 17,000 miles.  Very smooth, no vibrations.  Mine must be one of the 18 out of 20.

+1 to above, it is a tab-welded CR2032 that is soldered to the circuit board inside the TPS.  They make it that way because the forces inside a rotating tire would be beyond any replaceable battery configuration.  Sucks, but kind of makes sense.
 

They were not removed, but people who have had both bikes comment on the increased feel of HP and torque on the 2010s.  That could be due to 2 things, the secondary flies opening sooner or the A/F maps are different.  I would venture it is the maps.  On the 2010 there is a selectable "Eco" mode, which would select a more fuel efficient map.  The non-eco mode probably has a bit more agressive map.

There are 2 variations of the 2010, Non-ABS (available in 2008-2010).  The Non-ABS versions are the same as 2008-2010, they do not not have ABS or traction control and you can safely pull the flies. 
In the 2010 ABS-KTRC (only available in 2010) version, the traction control uses 3 parts for the traction control to operate; Air, fuel, and engine timing.  The secondary butterflies operate the air portion, closing when detecting rear wheel spin.  Removing them probably would not be recommended if KTRC is desired to operate at 100%.  I personally would not hesitate to remove them on the 2010 ABS version, the KTRC just isnt a feature I would want anyway.  More HP is worth not have KTRC.

I agree in most points of your review.  The C14 is a Sport Tourer and definately should have more adjustability in the suspension.

You describe a "wooly" feel of the engine at low RPMs.  For some strange reason, Kawasaki neutered the bike down low with a set of secondary flies.  Read up on Fly removal and it will wake this beast up.  I dyno'd at 137 HP and 95 lb/ft of torque stock and the next day removed the flies, installed AreaP full exhaust w/Carbon fiber can, BMC Race Air filter, and a Power Commander V.  She now dyno'd at 151 HP and 105 lb/ft of torque, an 11% gain!  You don't need to downshift every time to pass anymore, and my mileage went up!  I did this at 4000 miles and it feels like a new bike.