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Hi all,

I bought the bike referenced in the title brand new, did a very happy 60 odd thousand miles on it, then sold it about 18 months ago.

I am looking to get another GTR, and quite fancy the sentimentality of buying 'my' old bike back if it is available at a fair price.

Anyway, just posting on the off chance that someone on here now owns it - I know it has changed hands from the person who bought it from me.

Martin.

Hi folks,
As per title, does anybody have for sale a touring screen & bar risers. Am trying to find a way to stop me selling the best bike I've ever had......

TIA.
Bigbad


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I have an unused laminar lip for the 2010 onward standard screens. If you wanted to give it a go, happy to send it to you - if you like it, chuck me £30, and if not, send it back.

Martin.

Adding a few more pictures, as it was a glorious day today and my son and I went over to Castle Combe on the GTR.

If anyone is looking for a GTR, and has any questions, just ask.

Martin.

Evening all,

It is time to sell the GTR unfortunately, I took a new job 18 months ago and no longer commute by bike.

If anyone is looking for a fairly cheap entry into GTR ownership, please take a look at my advertisement on eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232286043787 . The bike is advertised for £4,250 on eBay, but I will accept £4,000 from a fellow forum member.

Lots of nice extras included with the bike, good mechanical condition and will be reliable for years to come I am sure. It has done some miles though, and is showing it's five years of all year round commuting cosmetically.

Any questions, just ask.

Many thanks,

Martin.

Ian,

I had the same problem a year or so ago.

Short version of the story is the regulator/rectifier failed, which blew the main underseat relay box, which then loses both headlights.

Long version is detailed here with some fault finding help and pictures - http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3777.0

I would measure the battery voltage with the bike running, mine was only showing 12.2V when it should have been 14.4V. If your charging voltage is unusual, I reckon you may have the same problem as me.

Martin

Martin, picture below
Cost is £75 including P&P. I have no idea what the P&P is yet
Minor scuffs to lower edge of black plastic cover. Small nicks to alloy at front pivot.

Doebag,

Thanks for taking the time to share the photos. Pete's selection of spare parts was just too tempting for me, so I have bought those. Thanks again.

Martin.

ps: If you have the radiator, gear lever pedal and front footrest rubbers available from your bike, please let me know.

Thanks all for the responses. I have seen the various used ones for sale, but none list a mileage of the bike they were taken from which puts me off. I really want to try and find a low mileage one so I can be confident that it has plenty of life left in it.

@doebag, if you could share a picture showing the condition of the diff and let me know how much you are looking for it, I could well be interested. I would need the whole rear bevel/diff assembly (as shown in the DK link that OC shared).

Martin.

Evening all,

My final drive has started leaking (at the red arrow - picture not my bike, far too clean  ) after 65k miles, and looking at the workshop manual, this is going to be a fairly difficult, time consuming job to replace the oil seal. If one is leaking, it would be sensible to do all of them at the same time to be honest and that means all sorts of left hand threads and bearing drivers needed by the looks of things.

I recall a couple of years back, there was a complete unused final drive assembly for sale from a trike conversion. Don't suppose anyone bought it as a spare did they, and possibly now want to sell it on 

Martin

Both headlights packed up last week.
Bulbs Ok
Fuses are Ok
Relays under left side are Ok
The multi function relay under the seat was the culprit.
I compared pictures of "Kawasaki relay" on Ebay and checked the part number and bike with the GTR part number.
I bought a relay for a  2014 2486 mile EX300 £23.95 instead of £80 some thing.

Fitted it today

I recommend you check your charging voltage. Had the exact same problems myself a year ago, and it ultimately turned out to be a failing regulator/rectifier that spiked the under seat relay, taking out the headlights.

You *might* find that your charging voltage is not as strong as it needs to be (mine was showing 12.8V at idle, rather than 14.4) and the bike will leave you stranded fairly shortly.

Martin.

These wind deflectors look a great idea, but reading the post , its a very old post. Does anyone know where these are being sold. definatley interested in getting a pair. Did 150 mile work run today and must say the knuckles were froze.

I bought them direct from Bill. He was used to shipping them all around the globe. I suggest taking a look at the link to the US forum in the very first post on this thread and getting in touch with him via PM.

Really great guy, I am sure he will help out if he is still making them.

Martin

I don't think hand guards will fit on the GTR unfortunately, they will hit the fairing long before the bars have reached full lock in either direction.

I use the hand wings made by Bill in the US ( http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=920.0 ) and they are superb. Really well designed, and keep a good amount of the wind off.

Personally, I also find that electrically heated gloves (I use Gerbing) are infinitely better than relying on the heated grips which only warm the palm of your hand, leaving the rest to freeze.

Martin.

Neil,

At this end of the market (i.e. anything above the 700cc commuter tool type of bike), we buy them with our hearts, not our heads. Even you and I, putting in lots of miles on them and therefore should be focussing on the practical, know that what appeals is the shiny, the exciting, the new.

Don't fight it. Bikes are emotional purchases. If we wanted sensible and to compare specification lists on a spreadsheet, we would buy a car.

Get whatever causes the man vegetables to tingle at the prospect 

Now, if BMW would just throw the S1000RR engine in the R1200RT package, I would also be a happy man with tingling feelings ....

Martin.

Neil,

Do you like V-Twin bikes? Looking at your selection of bikes, I think they are all IL4s and speaking personally, I have never managed to get the same level of enjoyment from the twins. I have had Ducatis and Aprilias, all track bikes mind rather than road bikes, and I never really gelled with the totally linear power delivery. I was forever banging them into the rev limiter, and they never felt fast to me due to that lack of IL4 top end rush.

When I did ride them on the road, I also got intensely frustrated at the vibration and jerky power delivery at low rpm town speeds.

I am having similar 'should I change, just because the GTR is getting on a bit' thoughts as you. I am wondering, mine now at 63k, how long it will continue to be reliable for. I really want to like the R1200RT as the weather protection, gadgets,  and comfort all fill my long commute needs. I just cannot get on with the engine though, just seems so agricultural to me.

The K1600 would probably be perfect, but it is a lot of money to spend on something that I am going to ruin by riding through the winters and avoiding the bucket & sponge.

I think the GTR is almost perfect. Yes, there might by 10% better out there in the latest stuff, but I keep coming back to how great the GTR is for crunching big miles. I hope I can keep mine past 100k.

Martin.

Thanks all, I guess I shall just keep on riding it and see what happens over time. I am quite looking to forward to seeing 100,000 on the clock.

@Jim, good call on the fuel pump. My zx10r track bike has the same pump, and that stated to fail at 17k miles. That bike does spend most of its life bouncing off the rev limiter though. Also reassuringly, the only issue with the failing pump was at 11k rpm plus so no instant breakdown.

@tomp, the official service interval for oil changes 7,500 miles. The 3,250 interim services are just inspections. Up to you if you think it is worth doing it earlier for piece of mind.

Martin.


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Afternoon all,

I have had a very enjoyable 59,500 miles on my bike since buying it 4 years ago. The poor thing is looking well used as I commute all year on it, and rarely break out the sponge, but I still love it and it keeps soldiering on.

I have no desire to change it, but I do need it to stay reliable as I use it for commuting and business. It was chequebook maintained by the supplying dealer up to 42k, but now doing it all myself.

What sort of things go on these as the miles pile on? I am happy feeding it the constant diet of wheel bearings, brake disks and shock strip/cleans that it seems to need. The reg/rec and battery failed 10k miles ago, but other than that, it has been great - original clutch, fork seals, head bearings etc.

Any thoughts on what typically goes, and when? What might be worth me trying to stockpile if they come up second hand? Radiator? Shaft drive assembly?

Cheers all,

Martin.