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Thanks for the wiring diagram - I've now got a copy printed out and stored under the seat in case of future need.
Anyway, turns out it was the battery - it was the symptoms being so similar to the old one that made me suspect the bike.
I hooked up the battery from my Z1300 and even though that was a bit low, it still started the GTR with no problems so I knew the wiring and connections were all fine.
To confirm, I connected the suspect battery up to a spare headlight and voltmeter to see how it fared. It immediately dropped to 12.5V as would be expected for a 5A load, but it carried on slowly dropping until after about ten seconds it rapidly collapsed to below 10V.
A new battery I fitted and checked a week ago has just started it fine this afternoon so I'm happy a happy bunny again now.
Just a shame I'll have to wait several weeks until I'm back on the the Isle of Man before I can return the duff one for a refund!

Thanks all for the suggestions.
I've started stripping the fairing off to check the wiring anyway as a precaution but when I checked the battery voltage, it was down at 10.6V which seems very low for only having tried and failed to turn the engine over a couple of times after showing 12.8V before and then standing for a few days so now I'm wondering if it might be duff.
I've charged the battery again and will do a load test on it tomorrow with a spare headlight to see how it handles that but also I was thinking I could dig the battery out of one of my other bikes and see if that'll turn over and start the GTR (it doesn't need to fit properly so long I can get it temporarily connected).
When I saw how low the battery was, I did connect a current meter to check for any drain but after an initial surge on connection, it was down to 20mA within a few seconds and then less than my meter would display soon after that.

Hi all, I've got a strange one on my GTR : the battery is showing 12.8V and drops to about 12.5V with the ignition on (which seems about right with the various ECUs and systems powered up and drawing current) but when I try to start the bike, it's very reluctant to turn over and in under a second, the starter solenoid clicks and the instrument panel display goes blank. When it does that, a voltmeter on the battery shows 9-10V but is the same as the instrument voltage reading the rest of the time. The battery is brand new and there's nothing draining it while the bike is standing.

I'm thinking it's got to be a loose or corroded connection somewhere in the starter circuit or an earth connection so that's where I'll look first but has this happened to anyone else? (I can't find any previous mentions in forum posts so doesn't look like a common problem).

Also, to help me with this does anyone have an electronic workshop manual for the second generation GTR they could send me?
I've got a copy of the one linked in the useful information but that's a first gen and while I don't think there's much difference, I'd prefer to work with the right one.

Cheers, Joe

Thanks all for the welcomes and tips.

I'll get some bits ordered and have a hunt for BlueOne but I think I'll wait until the new year to avoid the usual chaos of xmas deliveries!

Cheers, Joe

Hi all, I'm Joe in Stockport and I'm now the owner of a '16 plate GTR14 complete with satnav mount, panniers and factory top box. Bought to replace our venerable old GTR1000 of many years and miles, we've been out for a few rides in the past few weeks and so far I've been very impressed by its comfort, speed and handling (and my wife approves of the pillion accommodation!) It should be spot on for next year's trips to the Isle of Man, various weekends away and another tour to the South of Spain.

None of the mudguard extenders I've seen on ebay really seem long enough to do a proper job but I'd probably go for a Pyramid one and then use a bit of old oil can to extend it more to actually protect the radiator, downpipes and engine. Does any manufacturer make mudguards that work properly these days?

Similarly I'll probably go for a Pyramid tail extender and hugger combo at the back. The Skidmarx hugger seems slightly cheaper though, anyone have any experience of one?

I'm almost tempted to visit my local breakers or off-road emporium to see if they've got any suitable crosser guards that I could cut down to use on the front or to widen the rear to catch more spray at the back.

Has anyone used an RRG radiator guard? They're cheap and look easy to fit - flex to curve and push into place and then hold with cable ties.

Anyway, here's to hoping for many happy miles!