This has to be one of the biggest jobs on the bike. On the European bikes the valves need adjusting at 24k miles. My bike went in at 26k miles where the dealer said they could do a compression test to determine whether the valves needed adjusting. Not surprisingly, there was nothing to do on my bike.
Having done a bit of research on the web it appears doing a compression test is BS. I've just finished watching the videos on the value adjustment (hence this post at 4am), and I can't see how this could be done in less than six hours. More probably 8 hours for a skilled technician that has done the procedure before.
Given the complexity of the work and my inbuilt distrust of dealers to take shortcuts on complex work, I see no option but to do this procedure myself :o This will be my xmas project most likely and I estimate it will probably take the best part of a week for me to complete. Next time I watch the videos I'll be making notes and designing the templates for the calculations (which I'll share on this site).
Anyone done the value adjustment on the GTR themselves? If you have, I'd like to know how long it took and any gotchas. My mate who is experienced in this for his Pan European had a look at the Kawasaki workshop manual and had one comment: that's f***** up. He reckons it'd probably take him a full weekend to get it done doing it first time.
Either way, its going to be an interesting project
If nothing else you will get a great deal of satisifaction by perfoming the procedure yourself. There's an old moto that applies here. "Fail to prepare, prepare to fail". Ensure you have planned ahead which will make the process alot easier. Remember that you don't have to use Kawasaki shims as Honda or other 3rd party ones will do. Patience is the key. Don't rush. If you have access to a camcorder then record the whole procedure because fitting everything back again is a bitch, and there is always a loom or nut that is out of place.
Purchase a quality electric cordless screwdriver. I have a Dewalt DW920K-2. Expensive but well worth it. You'll be amazed how much time you save. Once you get to the engine 1/2 and 3/8 tools are also a bitch to use, especially when torquing. Invest in some 1/4 size hex and torque kit. Purchase a new head gasket just in case. If the existing one is OK, then its a case of if its not broken, don't fix.
I have done the valve clearances myself on many modern bikes, but not the GTR so far. Generalising, checking the the clearances themselves is simple, pre-ceeded by much dismantling of the bike, and topped off with possibly removing camshafts to change shims.
Again generalising, 8-10 hours is normally about right in my experience but that does include all other appropriate major service tasks.
I am no mechanic, but have learnt to do these sort of jobs over time.
Is the GTR more complex? In particular, I am puzzled by maximus' comment that the head gasket would be disturbed.
Martin.
I don't think the head gasket is disturbed at all. There is what is call on cars a rocker cover gasket.
From the video, the engine is just inaccessible without having to strip down a lot of components. I'll follow the advice above and record the whole process.
That's it, just time consuming because of lack of engine access, you pretty much have to take the whole bike apart, just to get to it.
I am still mulling over if I should do it myself or wait for my Singapore buddy mechanics to visit to help me do it.
Or second choice just trade in the bike with a 2011 model before the 24K !!
Quote from: MJJ_ZX6RR on October 11, 2010, 11:14:48 AM
Is the GTR more complex? In particular, I am puzzled by maximus' comment that the head gasket would be disturbed.
A faux pax from me? I must have been drunk!
Part number 11061A which is the head cover gasket is what may be required.