Time to change the clutch fluid. Its looking a bit black and unhealthy. I dont own a brake bleeder or similiar so I am going to attempt in the first instance the drain and fill method attempting not to get any air in the reservoir in the process, i.e. always keeping the fluid level at a reasonable level in the reservoir until all the old stuff has been expelled and new fluid starts to appear at the nipple end. Has anyone tried this method, does it work?
Is the bleed point one of the tubes on left side between fairing n gear selector ? Will have look through service manual see if any help for what u wanna do. Didnt know would show signs of degrading like that
I'm not too sure at the moment where the bleed pipe is or what it looks like. I gather its a nipple like the brake fluid outlets. The fluid in the reservoir is a dark colour and it should be almost clear. Four days off as tomorrow so it's on my priority list of things to do for Thursday.
Nipple is next to idle adjuster. I'd be thinking same as, hope all goes ok with changing out fluid
Job done, probably took me about thirty minutes and it still works!!
Much, much easier than I thought it might be.
Result then :-) I thought I knew which tube it is but not so sure, iw it one with reservoir at end ?
LW, what kit did you use?
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on September 22, 2011, 10:49:26 PM
LW, what kit did you use?
Ha, you'll laugh at this. I used a piece of plastic pipe and that was it.
Quote from: Therenback on September 22, 2011, 10:20:05 PM
Result then :-) I thought I knew which tube it is but not so sure, iw it one with reservoir at end ?
This might help you.
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/Jaffa_Cake101/Fingers/ClutchBleedNipple3.jpg)
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/Jaffa_Cake101/Fingers/ClutchBleedNipple2-1.jpg)
You dont need to remove any fairing. There's lots of room to get a spanner in.
LW, do you notice any improvement in the clutch after bleeding? Reason I ask is my clutch fluid went black after just a few months and a few thousand miles, and now at 15k miles, there are still no negative clutch symptoms.
Strangely the brake fluid is still lovely and clear, and that must get a harder time.
Martin
Thanks LW.
Quote from: MJJ_ZX6RR on September 23, 2011, 01:08:16 PM
LW, do you notice any improvement in the clutch after bleeding? Reason I ask is my clutch fluid went black after just a few months and a few thousand miles, and now at 15k miles, there are still no negative clutch symptoms.
Strangely the brake fluid is still lovely and clear, and that must get a harder time.
Martin
Good question indeed. Personally it
feels exactly the same to me, my bike has done 16.5k and I doubt very much that the brake or clutch fluid has ever been changed since the bike was new. I've had the bike just over a year and it's on an 07 plate. Why this isn't part of a regular service I have no idea. My clutch fluid was also black whereas the brake fluid still looks reasonably clear. Regardless of the colour though best practice is to change the fluids at 12 monthly intervals.
Clutch fluid goes black as it never gets heated.
As a consequence it absorbs water and slowly goes black.
The brake fluid gets very hot so all the water gets boiled out so it stays yellow.
I replace all my brake and clutch fluids once per year.
Easy for me as I have a MityVac so takes about 30 minutes for clutch and both brakes.
You probably won't be able to tell the difference with the clutch but once yer brake fluid goes black you will get spongy brakes.
Takes about 5 years for the brake fluid to go black.
I bought a GTR1000 that had been somewhat neglected and just changing the fluid made a dramatic improvement to the brakes.
The biting point of the clutch can be affected by dirty fluid as I found out.