well its about the time I will be replacing the rear tyre soon, have read all the comments on the standard bt021 and to be honest I find the tyres to be dam good? ok have not tried any others on the the gtr1400 so can not really compare. to be honest I found this to be the case with my zzr1400. have had 3 rear tyres and 1 front tyre on the zzr1400 and each time have replaced with the standard bt014. again theses tyres are not rated with other zzr1400 riders? yet I found them to be excellent. last year me and a mate went to the alps he was on his hayabusa, and we did give both bikes some stick on the twisties and I had no problem with grip what so ever. so this is very confusing. on one hand I have many riders knocking the standard tyres on both the gtr and the zzr, yet I find them to be a good tyre. kawasaki must spend a fortune on selecting the right tyre for the right bike, so common sense tells me the standard tyre is the best choice. on the other hand! its also stands to reason, you the rider and majority of you all say the standard bt021 is not the best tyre for the gtr1400, the same applies about the bt014 tyres on the zzr1400. tyres are a personal choice and if its works for you, then whats the problem I hear you ask! its just that both my gtr1400 and zzr1400 handel exceptional well in dry or wet conditions on standard tyres and can not see how theses bikes could handel better on other tyres. do I need educating on this or am I thinking on the correct lines? anyway when you change the tyre do you take the wheel to the dealer or any bike shop? I have a mate you works in a tyre fitting garage, he allways changes my bike tyres but with theses having tyre monitors fitted am thinking best to take to a main dealer, or are they ok providing you dont break the bead by the sensor!
Even dealers have been known to break TPS sensors. I normally tell my local garage and then watch them like a hawk when they are doing the change.
I have just changed my tyres and I let the dealer do the lot .... walked off to the local cafe for a " Full English " and upon my return it was all done ;D A set of Michelin PR 3's fitted etc etc £273. As you say it's all very personal ... take the wheels in and order your own tyres to save some money , but then waste an hour watching them do their job .....to be on the safe side I just hand it all over and be done with it.
Quote from: Lord Rusty on August 30, 2011, 09:58:59 PM
I have just changed my tyres and I let the dealer do the lot .... walked off to the local cafe for a " Full English " and upon my return it was all done ;D A set of Michelin PR 3's fitted etc etc £273. As you say it's all very personal ... take the wheels in and order your own tyres to save some money , but then waste an hour watching them do their job .....to be on the safe side I just hand it all over and be done with it.
thats a fair point! but I have a hugger fitted, so I would need to remove the hugger and to move the hugger I need to remove the exhaust, so might as well just take the wheel in, or suppose I would get a bigger bill. why cant things ever be simple?
When I had my tyres changed earlier this year although the hugger and exhaust had to be removed there was no additional charge to what I had originally been quoted.
Lord rusty - is that alf's ? Not far off needin new tread myself. Found them to be very good so far
Quote from: Lonewolf on August 30, 2011, 10:49:37 PM
When I had my tyres changed earlier this year although the hugger and exhaust had to be removed there was no additional charge to what I had originally been quoted.
Why does the hugger and exhaust need to be removed to change the tyre?
Quote from: Lord Rusty on August 30, 2011, 09:58:59 PM
I have just changed my tyres and I let the dealer do the lot .... walked off to the local cafe for a " Full English " and upon my return it was all done ;D A set of Michelin PR 3's fitted etc etc £273. As you say it's all very personal ... take the wheels in and order your own tyres to save some money , but then waste an hour watching them do their job .....to be on the safe side I just hand it all over and be done with it.
There's no TLC applied though. Even the dealers don't bother tightening to the correct torque, everything is manhandled. I even had to stop one of them laying the wheel down on the disc.
I use a company called The Pit Stop in Huddersfield to do my changes. Although not perfect, they listen to you. The best part is that you can take your bike and use their tools to remove the wheels, meaning you only get charged for fitting the tyre. I just replaced my rear PR3 (didn't need to use their tools as I took my own), and the owner was impressed with the level of attention I was placing e.g. greasing the axle and splines, correct torque, greasing and replacing the seal over the bearings. He said that kind of attention wouldn't be done by any fitting company.
The Hugger interferes with removing the wheel from the Final Drive splines.
I've never removed the exhaust though. Perhaps they still have the OEM Mortar Tube fitted and it's vast ugliness gets in the way.
Either that or they don't have a ground down Allen Key to hold the TetraLink bolt while you remove the nut that holds the hugger. ;D
Sorry, did I forget to mention that useful tool that I made myself the first time I had to remove the rear wheel, after fitting the hugger. ::)
As for they tyres, a friend always swore by the BT-020s on his bike.
He said that they were perfect for that bike.
Finally, he couldn't get the BT-020 in his size and went for the PR2s instead.
He eventually admitted that they were noticeably better and they also lasted 4000 miles longer.
He is now on his first set of PR3s and loving them.
How can you know if another tyre is better if you don't try them?
As for manufacturers spending $£$£ developing tyres for the bike,.... what a load of codswallop.
They develop tyres for a size, speed and load. They then sometimes fiddle with an existing design for a specific bike.
What is weirdest is that it is always Bridgestone,......
OH WAIT, aren't Bridgestone the ONLY Japanese motorcycle tyre manufacturer?
Perhaps that is why the Japanese bike manufacturers fit Bridgestone tyres to all their machines. ::)
After several bad experiences with Bridgestones I will stick with Michelin/Metzeler/Pirelli/Avon thank you.
Quote from: Boomer on August 31, 2011, 09:26:45 AM
The Hugger interferes with removing the wheel from the Final Drive splines.
Don't know the make of hugger I have on mine, but it certainly doesn't interfere with the removal of the wheel from the spline
QuoteOH WAIT, aren't Bridgestone the ONLY Japanese motorcycle tyre manufacturer?
Perhaps that is why the Japanese bike manufacturers fit Bridgestone tyres to all their machines.
Suzukis come with Dunlops
Therenback .... YES , Alfs it was and I have to say a !st class service I get too ... from Mick at sales to the service team. I have been popping in there for years " just for a look ", even when I had my Hondas, and I was always greeted with a smile and offer of coffee even when just looking about, which is one reason I went there for a change of bike.
Ps ... 2Kwacks ... The hugger was fitted by the dealer and there was no mention about it when it went in for new tyres so I imagine they just popped it off and cracked on ... I am sure there wouldn't be a problem as they come across it all the time ;D
point taken about tyres! I do beg to differ? however my thoughts are, "why fix something thats not broke" as far the hugger concearned am only going on what have been told by one of our members! which was and I qoute" but you need to remove the hugger when replacing the rear tyre because there not enough clearence to clear the splines. but if we dont need to remove the hugger well thats happy days?
I also don't have any problems with the original tyres. But then, it's a new bike and the suspension is obviously miles better than the one I had on the 1250 Bandit before, so how do I know if PR3s or even Dunlop Roadsmarts aren't better until I've tried them?
Nothing to do with something not being broke, though. When the tyres are worn it is a different story. Then they are 'broken' and need fixing anyway, so why not listen to advice of other GTR riders who've been there and done that? So unless the PR3s are significantly more expensive I'll give them a go and see for myself. And if I can get Roadsmarts for a better price, I'll most likely go for those to try them out. They were good on my previous bike, so they can't be bad on the GTR.
your right bout service and paul upstairs raids my card, got headlamp protectors coming at bargain price an after seeing what they billed you for PR3's getting booked in when shifts an crime rates allow !
Mecki, the PR3's are significantly more expensive than many other tyres (in my experience) but they are worth it.
Quote from: mecki on August 31, 2011, 04:32:31 PM
I also don't have any problems with the original tyres. But then, it's a new bike and the suspension is obviously miles better than the one I had on the 1250 Bandit before, so how do I know if PR3s or even Dunlop Roadsmarts aren't better until I've tried them?
Nothing to do with something not being broke, though. When the tyres are worn it is a different story. Then they are 'broken' and need fixing anyway, so why not listen to advice of other GTR riders who've been there and done that? So unless the PR3s are significantly more expensive I'll give them a go and see for myself. And if I can get Roadsmarts for a better price, I'll most likely go for those to try them out. They were good on my previous bike, so they can't be bad on the GTR.
its not the case of not wanting to listen to other gtr1400 riders, am simple stating that I find the standard tyres to be ok. am not a mad rider but I dont hang around either, and theses tyres have never given me any concearns about handeling or grip either it be dry or wet? have all ready stated that its highly unlikely that everyone is wrong about the standard tyres and because if this! I would try a different brand, but only when I need to replace both front and rear at the same time, so next time the rear is replaced the front should be ready for replacement, then most likely will try different tyres.
Havent got tech skills some u lads appear to but may be worth ensuring suspension settings dialed in to suit riding styles and bodyweight in case tyres not cause of negative feel but am sure all in thread already thought of it.
Having different tyres on front and back isn't a good idea, I know.
I have 3500 miles on the clock now and by the look of it the rear tyre starts to square off a bit.
But I guess I could probably get another couple of 1000 miles out of it.
Never had that with Dunlop Roadsmarts on the Bandit, and I did nearly the same trip to the South of France and through the Alps, but then they were 180s and not 190s.
3500 miles - is it nearly time for the 2nd service already?
The front still looks fine, so I probably don't have to replace it until the second rear will be worn out enough to replace them both together.
Quote from: mecki on August 31, 2011, 09:54:12 PM
Having different tyres on front and back isn't a good idea, I know.
I have 3500 miles on the clock now and by the look of it the rear tyre starts to square off a bit.
But I guess I could probably get another couple of 1000 miles out of it.
Never had that with Dunlop Roadsmarts on the Bandit, and I did nearly the same trip to the South of France and through the Alps, but then they were 180s and not 190s.
3500 miles - is it nearly time for the 2nd service already?
The front still looks fine, so I probably don't have to replace it until the second rear will be worn out enough to replace them both together.
I would defo second that never mix different tyres brands! however I do know some guys that do, and to be fair they will also say they are fine? but I would not mix tyres, have tried most tyre brands on various bikes, roadsmarts are good tyres and would most likely out last the standard bt021 for long distance! your roadsmarts lasted well on your bandit but am quessing the approx weight of the bandit is 215 kg, the gtr1400 weight is approx 320kg, power on the bandit is approx 105 bhp the gtr as approx 160 bhp!! so not surprised your roadsmarts looked alot better than your standard bt021 with the simular mileage! completely 2 different bikes so no comparison! but yes, would agree the roadsmarts would most likely out last the bt021 for distance, but by how much is the question ;)
Quoteyour roadsmarts lasted well on your bandit but am quessing the approx weight of the bandit is 215 kg, the gtr1400 weight is approx 320kg, power on the bandit is approx 105 bhp the gtr as approx 160 bhp!! so not surprised your roadsmarts looked alot better than your standard bt021 with the simular mileage!
The Bandit is a bit heavier than that, and it has only 96 bhp, but as far as torque in the lower rev range is concerned it beats the GTR hands down.
ok mecki, we will need to agree to disagree on this subject!
ever read a thread an loose will to live !!
2Kwaks, Disagree on what?
That the 1250 Bandit weighs in at just over 250kg or that it's engine develops more torque below 4000rpm than the 1400GTR?
After all the Bandit engine reaches maximum torque (I think it is 90 something Nm) @ 3500 rpm while the GTR feels IMHO rather sluggish below 4000 and doesn't really get lively until you go over 6500 especially in higher gears.
But I have to admit that I've been riding with sub-optimal tyre pressure on the way back from France (250KPa front and 270KPa rear) because I couldn't get any air in at gas stations. That made it a bit twitchy on sharp corners especially at the front and could have contributes to the slight squaring off at the back.
I've got my own pump now and carry a right angle adaptor with me, so this shouldn't happen again.
Flies out, power commander, remapping ;D
QuoteFlies out, power commander, remapping
I don't think that would be a good idea on a 2011 model since it may play havoc with the traction control.
The Bandit may have tons of grunt below 4000 rpm but lacks it further up the rev range.
Nah, I rather just switch down another gear or two. ;D
Quote from: mecki on September 01, 2011, 12:52:01 PM
2Kwaks, Disagree on what?
That the 1250 Bandit weighs in at just over 250kg or that it's engine develops more torque below 4000rpm than the 1400GTR?
After all the Bandit engine reaches maximum torque (I think it is 90 something Nm) @ 3500 rpm while the GTR feels IMHO rather sluggish below 4000 and doesn't really get lively until you go over 6500 especially in higher gears.
But I have to admit that I've been riding with sub-optimal tyre pressure on the way back from France (250KPa front and 270KPa rear) because I couldn't get any air in at gas stations. That made it a bit twitchy on sharp corners especially at the front and could have contributes to the slight squaring off at the back.
I've got my own pump now and carry a right angle adaptor with me, so this shouldn't happen again.
time to put this to bed me-think! however my figures where off the top of my head, I had a zrx1200 for 5 years and what I can remember the tyres where standard bridgestone and lasted quite well considering the stick I gave that bike most of the time! am guessing the torque on the 1250 bandit under 4,000 revs is approx 80lb.ft the gtr1400 is approx 95lb.ft at approx 6,000 revs the 1250 bandit may weigh 250kg but the gtr1400 weighs approx 320 kg the 1/4 mile of the bandit am guessing would be approx 11 seconds the gtr1400 is approx also 11 seconds, surely it stands to reason the gtr with the extra weight and simular 1/4 mile times will give the same brand of tyre more wear! and over a period of time it will wear out more quickly. now this is only my opinion based on the zrx1200 I had which its fair to say the zrx1200 and the 1200 bandit are quite simular in power and weight? at the end of the day it dose not matter what tyre or how long it lasts. we all can make our tyres last for years if we ride like beginners all the time? for example my zzr1400 goes through rear tyres like there going out of fashion, my zzr1400 as done 8,500 miles now and am over half way through my 4th rear tyre, now if I rode that the same as I rode my zrx1200 then I would be in serious financial trouble by now, but like I said its only my opinion! I may be correct or I may be wrong but what the hell! its all good fun ;)
I wasn't referring to the milage but to the "squaring" when I stated that I never experienced anything like that with Roadsmarts on the Bandit.
Quote from: mecki on September 01, 2011, 05:59:49 PM
I wasn't referring to the milage but to the "squaring" when I stated that I never experienced anything like that with Roadsmarts on the Bandit.
ok I give in ??? you win, I loose. however we may take this up at one of the meets we may go on! but only after 6 or 7 pints :)
Quote from: Therenback on September 01, 2011, 11:35:57 AM
ever read a thread an loose will to live !!
I thought it was quite riviting, but there again I was bored! have found something eles to do now, so have put it to bed! told mecki he as won, so should be the end of it for now!! ;)
Me thinks that all the people complaining about the original tyres on the GTR were owners of the early models, I remember reading lots of reports with people not happy, BUT Bridgestone have made a new tyre for the 010/011 model year WITH THE ADDED PREFIX (U). I agree with 2kwaks no problems at all with my 011 models tyres , they have now done 4500 and will probably do 6000 they have never done anything other than fill me with confidence. In saying all that I am unsure as to what will be fitted when the time comes,I am probably swaying towards Roadsmarts, but we will see.
I have a green 2011 the same you 100milesaway and I found the OE tyres very unpredictable when pushed and the front was down to the wear marker and the rear past it at 2600mls.
Have PR3's now and they are significantly better and last maybe 50% longer.
Quote from: 2kwacks on September 01, 2011, 07:59:22 PM
I thought it was quite riviting, but there again I was bored! have found something eles to do now, so have put it to bed! told mecki he as won, so should be the end of it for now!! ;)
def no offence intended 8) just blowing steam after naf meeting at work. when u guys get going on a topic, i often learn something getting to see to the opinions etc
Quote from: fred24 on September 01, 2011, 09:55:32 PM
I have a green 2011 the same you 100milesaway and I found the OE tyres very unpredictable when pushed and the front was down to the wear marker and the rear past it at 2600mls.
Have PR3's now and they are significantly better and last maybe 50% longer.
Blimey Fred you you must ride a lot harder than me, or do lots of motorway miles to only get 2600mls out of the rear, I do all my biking on a/b roads so maybe thats a bit kinder to the tyres.Anyway please keep me informed as to how you get on mileage wise with the pr3s. ;D
Quote from: 100milesaway on September 02, 2011, 06:49:52 AM
Blimey Fred you you must ride a lot harder than me, or do lots of motorway miles to only get 2600mls out of the rear, I do all my biking on a/b roads so maybe thats a bit kinder to the tyres.Anyway please keep me informed as to how you get on mileage wise with the pr3s. ;D
I have had PR3's on the GTR since April this year. The front has done over 8,500 and last rear did about 7,000 before a puncture last month - the rear probably had another 2-3,000 miles left on it. I do tend ride mainly A/B roads
Steve
Quote from: Therenback on September 01, 2011, 10:25:27 PM
def no offence intended 8) just blowing steam after naf meeting at work. when u guys get going on a topic, i often learn something getting to see to the opinions etc
defo none taken! its just passing time ;)
Quoteso I would need to remove the hugger and to move the hugger I need to remove the exhaust,
I am bemuses as to why you have to remove hugger & Exhaust..mine came off easy & went back easy.....far easier than the FJR was for sure.
I remember when I fitted my hugger I had to remove a section of the exhaust. And when I had my new tyres fitted the dealer commented that they had experienced problems and had no option other than to remove the hugger and exhaust. It took them no less than 6 hours to change the two tyres. I kid you not!! ::)
Quote from: Ziderman on September 02, 2011, 09:13:29 AM
I am bemuses as to why you have to remove hugger & Exhaust..mine came off easy & went back easy.....far easier than the FJR was for sure.
I'm with you. Hugger and silencer remain on when the dealer changes our rear tyre.
Kevin
How the hell can the silencer get in the way.....?
Quote from: Ziderman on September 03, 2011, 04:52:26 PM
How the hell can the silencer get in the way.....?
well its not the exhaust thats gets in the way. its the hugger, and to remove the hugger you need to remove the exhaust! I understand by other members theres not enough room to get the wheel clear of the splines due to the hugger being in the way. have not tried to remove the wheel yet but soon will need a rear tyre fitting so suppose I will find out, if we do need to remove the exhaust and hugger, it will be a pain in the rear! but suppose its the lesser of 2 evils considering the shit that would get chuck up on the rear shock if the hugger was not fitted.
Well I got both...a Silencer & a Hugger..... ;D I did not have to remove either for removal or reinstall....
QuoteI have a green 2011 the same you 100milesaway and I found the OE tyres very unpredictable when pushed and the front was down to the wear marker and the rear past it at 2600mls.
I have done 3500 miles on the original tyres now. The front has still at least that if not more left and the rear should last also another couple of thousand.
I just can't see how anyone can demolish a set of O21s within 2600 miles on public roads.
That's not pushing it, that is utter madness and a danger not only to yourself but also to other road users.
Those are the guys who give bikers a bad name. ::)
Quote from: mecki on September 05, 2011, 10:01:13 PM
I just can't see how anyone can demolish a set of O21s within 2600 miles on public roads.
Biker weight, suspension setup, tyre compound, braking style, condition of roads ...
Only 10 minutes to take the end can and hugger off ( Remus Okami end can & Skidmarks hugger), needed for clearance when removing the back wheel. Quicker than most other bikes I've had.
My 021 front tyre fine after 4000 miles of A & B roads, new rear 023 really good in all conditions (including aweful downpour yesterday), previous rear 021 gave no problems up until the puncture.
:)
QuoteBiker weight, suspension setup, tyre compound, braking style, condition of roads ...
You forgot speed and acceleration.
In other words using public roads as a race track.
Quote from: mecki on September 05, 2011, 10:01:13 PM
I have done 3500 miles on the original tyres now. The front has still at least that if not more left and the rear should last also another couple of thousand.
I just can't see how anyone can demolish a set of O21s within 2600 miles on public roads.
That's not pushing it, that is utter madness and a danger not only to yourself but also to other road users.
Those are the guys who give bikers a bad name. ::)
mecki" I quite understand how you can demolish tyres in 2,600 miles or even less! I dont ride mad but do like to open the zzr1400 up now and again I average 2,500 miles from the rear tyre. am dam sure if I open the beast up all the time I could even half that! I even know a few guys you see them off in under 1,500 miles. my mate as a hayabusa and lucky to get 3,000 miles from rear tyre. and before you ask we do not do burnouts, am a bit old in the teeth now for all that! the bhp/tourqe/power, on the gtr1400 is not as much as the zzr1400 but the gtr1400 still packs one hell of a punch, if a rider is inclined to open the gtr1400 up on a regular basis I could see how the tyre would only last 2,600 miles or even less, if hes a podgy sod ;) even less ;D now I do realize this could start a other barney between me and you, but bring it on! am bored again! lol ;) ;D
Forget it 2kwacks.
Maybe you were the one who passed me the other day while I was doing - I won't say how fast I was going with all those cops around here - and thought - I won't say that either because I don't want to get banned from this group. ;D ;D ;D
I used to demolish rear tyres in less then 1000km on my Z1R when I was young and stupid. But I ain't young any more and learnt a thing or two since then. Probably the main reason why I'm still alive. 8)
Quote from: mecki on September 06, 2011, 09:54:09 PM
Forget it 2kwacks.
Maybe you were the one who passed me the other day while I was doing - I won't say how fast I was going with all those cops around here - and thought - I won't say that either because I don't want to get banned from this group. ;D ;D ;D
I used to demolish rear tyres in less then 1000km on my Z1R when I was young and stupid. But I ain't young any more and learnt a thing or two since then. Probably the main reason why I'm still alive. 8)
dam" I will after to start a barney with the wife then ;) thought you would have put up a bigger fight than that ;D we where all mad when we where young, but theres nothink wrong in opening the buggers up now and again in a controlled manner! but your right, theres two many speed traps and hazards now, just as well we have all aged!!!! ;)
There was this traffic light that always turned red while I was still about hundred meters (or probably a bit more) away.
It really bugged me, so one day I decided to see if I could make it through and really opened the old Z1R up.
I managed to get through while the light still showed amber (well - it just had turned to red actually). But when I looked on the speedo I was doing 125mph in a 60 km/h zone (my ZR1 was an UK import so it showed mph).
F... me gently, if someone would have run that light or been fast of the mark...
And that Z1R had only 100 bhp!
Was it really worth it?
I've opened the beast up once or twice (while I was abroad of course) - and it is definitely faster than the Z1R, but I probably still get more than 6000 miles out of an O21 rear tyre.