Haven't done much riding lately on the GTR apart from going to pick up or drop off the Blood bike, a Yam FJR 1300. Not sure if that's the reason but the FJR throttle response especially in 1st and 2nd gear at low speed just seems sooo much smoother than my GTR. Mine just feels it's all or nothing and I'm having to really concentrate on the input at low speed.
How long since you've used the GTR for any distance, maybe a good run out will help, or has your GTR always seemed snatchy?
If everything is as it should be and it's got relatively resent fuel maybe a remap to stop the fuel cutting off on a closed throttle would help.
I don't know who to recommend Cheshire way (I'm sure somebody will have ideas). I had mine done near Peterborough and a big difference it made. More noticeable on Alpine type hairpins instant pickup and smooth. Same with Uturns, No clutch needed, leave it to tick over through the manouver if it feels like it's gonna topple, tickle the throttle - instant smooth power.
Do the blood bikes have the lower ratio rear diff the plod got or is that old hat these days?
I can'tremember the exact sequence (someone will ) but you can 'reset' the throttle action by fully opening and closing the throttle..I suggest that you try this method first before splashing out
The "reset" sequence on my BMW (might be the same) is to turn on the ignition without starting the engine, and roll the throttle grip from closed to fully open then release it slowly. This is repeated three times and then the ignition is turned off, followed by a normal engine start.
Quote from: flatfour on November 04, 2020, 08:38:53 AM
The "reset" sequence on my BMW (might be the same) is to turn on the ignition without starting the engine, and roll the throttle grip from closed to fully open then release it slowly. This is repeated three times and then the ignition is turned off, followed by a normal engine start.
Yep that was it Colin, here's some more discussion ref the same :yes:
https://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic,7043.msg93795.html#msg93795
Thanks chaps, I shall try that before I look at anything else like a remap. :yes:
Check the throttle free play and if that is adjusted correctly you might try a throttle tamer...
https://www.g2ergo.com/shop/?product_cat=street-bikes&product_tag=kawasaki&pa_model=concours-zg1400-08-20
I had one on mine and it seemed to work ok.
The "throttle reset" has no effect on the GTR.
It only works on fly by wire throttles which the GTR is not.
To get a less snatchy throttle first adjust your throttle free play and if that doesn't do enough for you, send your ECU to Michael Cox and get it flashed. Mine is now smooth as butter. :clap: :banana:
I know that my BMW is the last with a cable operated throttle, and the procedure is advised following battery disconnection for that model, but discontinued for the later types with "Fly By Wire".
I am uncertain of the situation with Kawasaki though?
Throttle reset doesn't work, I'm always 2 up and it makes the snatch so much more noticeable at low speed.
Same with the last bike I had bought new in 2009.
It's because of the emission requirements and I'm afraid the only answer is a remap, I used the people near Peterborough too.
They were a bit odd but I can't fault their work.
They said they were going to put a pic on their facebook page back in 2017 as they didn't get too many gtr's.
So did they put the photo up ?
No idea, not on facebook/instagram and so on.
You're talking about BSD at Peterborough. The owner, Mark sorted my ZXR out and did a good job, explaining all the way. At one point he wasn't happy with a leakdown test, so did a valve clearance check just to confirm the shims were correct. Didn't charge for that, which was nice.
I wouldn't have any hesitation in recommending him
I read some members sent off their ECU's to be remapped with shoodabin?
The Plus for me using BSD at Peterborough (it's quite local - an hour away, there's plenty of others about the country), rather than sending an ECU's away to be remapped (and I've no knowledge of the results after a "remote remap" to compare) is my bike was on a rolling road. So the remap is more personnel to my engines performance. I'm sure many customers have had excellent results from sending their ECU off in the post etc.. too many possible "could go wrongs" for me to post an ECU. There's the obvious time issue, you've gotta be there with your bike, rather than send your ECU through the post during the winter. Like Burchy said there might be other issues with you bike that get thrown up in the rolling road remap that wouldn't have been discovered with a remote remap. Pays ya money and takes ya chance!
Yeah, gonna have a look around locally must be somewhere close to me.
Remap will solve the problem. I do this few days ago and now it flys as smooth as silk.
Quote from: l.u.v on November 17, 2020, 05:05:11 AM
Remap will solve the problem. I do this few days ago and now it flys as smooth as silk.
Thanks :smiley:
I've used Shoodaben in the past for my computer remap. Worked quite well on my old 08 C14. No problems with the PO then. Not quite sure if I'd trust it these days. Quite a few others in the US have used him as well, but if you can find someone local to do it all the better.
Holy thread resurrection batman!
....but, my GTR is suffering the same symptoms as described above. I have a Kawasaki race specialist 4 miles away who commented that most EFi bikes are the same but before remapping, change the fuel filter. I will do that soon.
Looking around I've read about swapping to an aftermarket exhaust can and swapping the O2 sensor, in the cat, for a bypass and plugging the hole. This, apparently, irons out the snatchy throttle.
Has anyone any experience/advice on this?
Get the Mountain Runner or Mountain Runner Premium flash from Michael Cox.
Smoother throttle, more torque, more power, but best of all confidence inspiring. Makes a huge difference to the rideability over a plain old peak power remap.