I'd like to fit some r+g engine bars.
Has anyone experience of them, are they sturdy enough, they do fit the lines of the bike nicely but don't look that robust in the pictures I've seen.
They're very good. A bit fiddly to fit, but once in place they blend in very well. I unfortunately had occasion to test them and they saved a lot if damage when the bike went over. Just needed a replacement mirror and some touch-up paint on the bars themselves.
Biggest problem I had was getting the lower engine bolt out...
Cheers. I don't mind fiddly, I've got the patience of a saint haha
They're in my basket at sportsbikeshop, I just need to pull the trigger...
I'm also interested. Are you guys talking about same items like in picture?
That's the ones
If and when you get them, the first thing to do is make sure you can undo the top, forward engine mounts. These are Allen bolts and glued in by Mr K.
Secondly, be advised that the original lower engine bolts do NOT rotate. Although there is a cap socket in the right hand end, you can't undo it there as it is shouldered. Undo the nuts on the left side and drift the bolts out.
Mine were rusted in on the last one I did and had to use a sledgehammer to get it one move
+1 for R & G crash bars, saved the plastic a couple of times 1) from a static drop and 2) 20 mph spin out mid corner on oil spill. Got a rear set from the USA. Quick rub over with emery paper, sprayed some Hycote bodyshop satin black, all good to go.
R / G are for the front covers. What do you use for the back?
Quote from: l.u.v on May 30, 2020, 07:26:55 AM
I'm also interested. Are you guys talking about same items like in picture?
Yep. These are the ones I am hoping to get, I would have liked the original kawasaki items but they are only for 07/08/09 models apparently. The r+g bars seem to blend in nicely. The damage that a 25mph ish off did to my previous 2010 gtr was shocking so any help to keep the plastics intact would be good.
Quote from: Burchy on May 30, 2020, 11:51:31 AM
If and when you get them, the first thing to do is make sure you can undo the top, forward engine mounts. These are Allen bolts and glued in by Mr K.
Secondly, be advised that the original lower engine bolts do NOT rotate. Although there is a cap socket in the right hand end, you can't undo it there as it is shouldered. Undo the nuts on the left side and drift the bolts out.
Mine were rusted in on the last one I did and had to use a sledgehammer to get it one move
Nice one, top tips there. Thanks for the heads up. I'll get a bit of acf50 in there to help things along.
I haven't bought them yet, I'll wait until the bike comes back from the dealer and get a few shake down miles on it before ordering.
For those looking for the rear pannier crash bars which I beleive R & G no longer do.
Mine came from the states - www.mcenterprises.com - part No. 1400-310 - Kawasaki Concours 14 2010-2017. MC Enterprises - 835 Flynn Road - Camarillo - CA - 93012 866.866.2368. I don't have the price to hand and did get hit with import duty before the courier would deliver. At the same time I lowered the rear foot pegs as a pillion wouldn't get their foot on the pegs with the bars fitted. Kit came from the states - Advanced Sports Touring - C14-08 passenger Peg Lowering Brackets, $75 + shipping in May 18.
Not cheap, but these have definately saved me a few quid, being a short arse at sometime or other the bike is going over. I also fitted Lust racing lowering brackets to the rear and dropped the front forks 15-20mm to match the rear, never had any problems with lean angle.
Hi,
When did you buy M&C Enterprises Cage? As far as I know they no longer produce the items. If I want to buy something on the site I cannot add in the basket, I don't see the prices..only photos
My rear Crash bars were purchased May 2018, if no longer available from MC Enterprises a short search came up with these (I can't vouch for fitment or quality) but if you review the item I'm sure you'll get the gist of whether they are worth getting or not. T-rex racing.com - go to shop by ride - Choose kawasaki - Model Choose - Concours - year - choose 2007 - 2009 regardless of your bikes year. You will see a rear set of crash bars for bikes 2007 - 2019 - Part No N62-12LGB3, a rear set of crash bars for $199.95.
Failing that - from memory there is a website for American Emergency Vehiles (AEV or similar) that stock a range of crash bars for the concours that I haven't seen on a Uk bike before, they appear to want you to sell your home to pay for them.
Good luck searching.
Quote from: Nitty Gritty on June 04, 2020, 05:16:56 PMI also fitted Lust racing lowering brackets to the rear and dropped the front forks 15-20mm to match the rear, never had any problems with lean angle.
Did you have any clearance problems with the top of the front mudguard hitting the fairing?
Did you have any problems with the length of the stands?
I'm thinking of dropping mine to improve the turn in speed and cornering feel but don't want an expensive crunch when I hit a pothole.
Hi TynesideBob,
I haven't had any issues cornering or braking. I did however have an issue getting the bloody thing on it's centre stand. You could shorten the centre stand but I didn't want to do anything permanent in case the next owners wanted it back to standard height. In my garage I keep a short section of scaffold board, I put it behind the back wheel, bump the rear wheel onto the board. Centre stand isn't an issue then if I want the bike on the centre stand for cleaning. I've bolted another piece of wood in the appropriate place on the bike ramp where the bike overnights in the garage. It works well, I carry a shorter piece of wood in the topbox so if I need to get the bike on the centre stand for any reason when I'm out I can without struggling. You only need something like the thickness of a fag packet, just to change the angle of the centre stand to give you more purchase. Side stands been fine, I did put a bit of weight on it when I first lowered the bike as it sat quite upright, Sidestands fairly thin and took a bending. You have to be a little canny where you park, touch wood it hasn't been over so far.
Thanks for the excellent information.
It's always best to hear from someone who has actually done it first.
Quote from: Nitty Gritty on July 02, 2020, 07:04:52 PM
Hi TynesideBob,
I haven't had any issues cornering or braking. I did however have an issue getting the bloody thing on it's centre stand. You could shorten the centre stand but I didn't want to do anything permanent in case the next owners wanted it back to standard height. In my garage I keep a short section of scaffold board, I put it behind the back wheel, bump the rear wheel onto the board. Centre stand isn't an issue then if I want the bike on the centre stand for cleaning. I've bolted another piece of wood in the appropriate place on the bike ramp where the bike overnights in the garage. It works well, I carry a shorter piece of wood in the topbox so if I need to get the bike on the centre stand for any reason when I'm out I can without struggling. You only need something like the thickness of a fag packet, just to change the angle of the centre stand to give you more purchase. Side stands been fine, I did put a bit of weight on it when I first lowered the bike as it sat quite upright, Sidestands fairly thin and took a bending. You have to be a little canny where you park, touch wood it hasn't been over so far.
I have heard of others successfully adopting this technique :clap:
Hi Tynesidebob,
I forgot to mention - I've a forward facing bullet camera fitted under the headlight which has reduced the distance between headlight and mudguard by a further 25mm, even under extreme braking it has never come into contact with the mudguard.
You've some space to play with so long as your front forks are in good condition, you don't weigh a great deal more than the 13 stone dry weight I run at you shouldn't have a problem.
Regards
Nitty Gritty