Are all gtr,s the same mines 2018 looking to put one in before remap cheers gents
As far as the air filter goes, yes. But do ya bike a favour and fit a new Kaw filter.
I'd suggest a standard OEM filter, perfectly capable of flowing more than enough air and offers far better filtration, K&N filters are designed for race engines that get stripped and rebuilt regularly as they do pass particles of dust and dirt but catch the bigger bits. Not recommended for road use at all.
Always the first thing I do with a bike, throw away the air filter and fit a K&N, never had a problem. My SV1000N which I've had since new in 2005 is still running beautifully with just a K&N and blueflame exhausts by way of engine mods. Stories about making the oil dirty & letting too large particles through are old wives tales. Get it in before the remap, not a big job to change, did you also consider changing the pipe, the weight loss alone gives a benefit, very difficult to get a good volumetric flow going with that thing on the end. You don't have to spend hundreds on an Akrapovič to get a good pipe these days.
Ignorance is bliss eh, Robbie. :stupid:- not. :oops: :listencarefully:.......the best substitute for brains is ... :lipsrsealed: :yes:
Quote from: ray1151 on July 07, 2018, 11:26:47 AM
Always the first thing I do with a bike, throw away the air filter and fit a K&N, never had a problem. My SV1000N which I've had since new in 2005 is still running beautifully with just a K&N and blueflame exhausts by way of engine mods. Stories about making the oil dirty & letting too large particles through are old wives tales. Get it in before the remap, not a big job to change, did you also consider changing the pipe, the weight loss alone gives a benefit, very difficult to get a good volumetric flow going with that thing on the end. You don't have to spend hundreds on an Akrapovič to get a good pipe these days.
I have put a can on ,everywere i look all list bikes too 2010 so wanted to be sure they fit a 18 plate
Quote from: ray1151 on July 07, 2018, 11:26:47 AM
Always the first thing I do with a bike, throw away the air filter and fit a K&N, never had a problem. My SV1000N which I've had since new in 2005 is still running beautifully with just a K&N and blueflame exhausts by way of engine mods. Stories about making the oil dirty & letting too large particles through are old wives tales. Get it in before the remap, not a big job to change, did you also consider changing the pipe, the weight loss alone gives a benefit, very difficult to get a good volumetric flow going with that thing on the end. You don't have to spend hundreds on an Akrapovič to get a good pipe these days.
Your bike, your choice Ray. :cool: I'm just offering an informed opinion from an engineer with 35 years experience of numerous engine developments from 25cc up to 22000cc :sweatdrop:
Having spent an awful lot of my time working on and with race machinery of 4 and 2 wheels I know what the preference is amongst race teams. Nowadays few or none use K & N filters, modern series demand for X number of miles or events before an engine can be refreshed has led teams to stick with standard filtration which is 99.99% effective compared to K & N that is only 58% effective on particles below 25 microns (that's a big lump when it hits a cylinder bore). Standard filters are usually capable of flowing 40-50% more air than the engine actually requires.
K & N and the likes will have you believe it is a performance filter offering you more power, no it won't, engine development and mapping to suit will offer more power, yes any reasonable silencer will on it's own offer small gains straight away adding a filter will make no difference to the finished result.
I'd also add a BMC filter will offer far better filtration than a K & N. :smiley: but unless your looking at fitting turbo's etc demanding 2 or 3 times the standard airflow I'd recommend sticking to a standard filter.
I've fitted K&N filters to some of my bikes in the past, but not for many years now. :no:
TBH I never noticed any difference in performance of those bikes that I fitted the K&N filters to, so I probably wasted my money.
Robbieben's information seems very well informed, well researched and most importantly proven.... personally I wouldn't waste my money on a K&N these days
But don't tell my mate who has just fitted one to his bike :oops:
I did the 'short story' version of Robbie's post in reply 4. :grin:
...........great minds think alike. :banana: :scooter:
Standard filters work very well when they're new, however they very quickly become clogged. As you say race teams change them for each race.
I agree you'll be disappointed if you think you'll get more power. Pods especially can lose power for you as air boxes now are shaped for optimum performance.
Accepting your %ages in good faith what's the down side for road use?
Quote from: ray1151 on July 09, 2018, 05:08:15 PM
Standard filters work very well when they're new, however they very quickly become clogged. As you say race teams change them for each race.
I agree you'll be disappointed if you think you'll get more power. Pods especially can lose power for you as air boxes now are shaped for optimum performance.
Accepting your %ages in good faith what's the down side for road use?
Down sides re road use are that roads are by their nature full of dust, dirt and other debris, if your on a busy road your riding through airbourne particles, the busier the road the more debris in the air, easier to see in your headlights at night, race tracks have less debris as they are generally cleaner, no farm and quarry traffic, having said that at places like Qatar, Valencia the first sessions can yield 15 grams or more of debris collected by a filter on a GP bike and 8-10 grams on a Moto 2 bike. Easy to see the damage that could be caused to internal components if you have less efficient filtration.
Filters that require washing and re oiling to help keep them clean and catch debris are not used these days for many reasons, they are poor filters for small particles, oil is pulled into the inlet tract which causes mass air flow sensors to burn out and fail, all reasons NOT to use one these days. If you have a decent supplier you'll buy 3 or 4 standard filters for the cost of one K & N type filter and in road use that's at least 36 to 48,000 miles, why compromise an engine for the sake of a cheap filter. :smiley:
Interesting point of view, especially about over oiling, here's what k&n say;
Some air filter companies tout their high filtration levels in the 99th percentile. Doesn't higher filtration mean a better air filter?
Not necessarily. 99% filtration efficiency is certainly a very good achievement. However, filter efficiency is just one statistic of filter performance which is measured (but is also the statistic most commonly published). The other air filter performance statistics measured are: capacity, restriction, and service life. These other factors reflect the amount of dirt the filter can hold, how easily air can flow through the filter, and how long the filter can be used before servicing. If one particular brand of filter consistently achieves 99%+ efficiency, it would be interesting to know if they also excel in the other performance areas, or are sacrificing one statistic to help increase another.
Given the fact that vehicle manufacturers do not publish specific filtration requirements for their vehicles, it is not strange that we find major, reputable filter brands offering replacement filters with efficiencies varying between 94%-99%. Many K&N filters achieve 98%-99% efficiency, in a product design that offers a longer service life, and much lower restriction than other brands of filters. So, a "better" air filter is really a judgement call, and varies by personal preference.
More airflow means you are letting more dirt through, right?
No, not at all. K&N air filters operate using a much different technology than other types of air filters. Most disposable filters are "barrier filters". That is, their filtering media acts as a physical barrier to dust particles, and once a dust particle covers a pore in the media, air can no longer flow through that space. This principle is called "surface loading". K&N air filters are built using a fabric filtering material which absorbs dirt and dust particles instead of physically blocking them. This is a principle called "depth loading". The pores in the material continue to let air flow through as the filter absorbs dirt in the media.