I'm about to buy the bike in the link below,
Is there anything I should make sure the dealer does before I commit to buying it?
http://www.shirlaws.com/pages/used/used-bikes/2007-57-KAWASAKI-GTR1400-1400cc/59f891d28f29d777.htm
For that age and mileage, I'd want the valve shims done and a check on the state of the TPS batteries.
Someone else told me a bout shims so asked on them,
What's the TPS batteries and is it a big job
Mmm... Its pricy, the old model , 10 yrs old...
Are you sure?
Sticker price doesn't mean a lot,
I'm paying roughly £1200 plus my 2008 1050 tiger
tyre pressure sensors TPS.They use watch batteries and can be changed when you change tyres.A cheap diy job .Do a search on here. Check the rear shock adjuster moves freely as some seize up.Other than that a good service fluids ect . Another thing is to spin the rear wheel on main stand.If it clunks the splines of the drive shaft need greasing.Enjoy :clap: Oh and they tend to wear front discs .
Quote from: beegee on November 05, 2017, 07:02:34 PM
Mmm... Its pricy, the old model , 10 yrs old...
Are you sure?
+1 - make sure all the recalls have been done, cant see an extender fender on it so just have a good look around the Radiator area, it can get quite pitted. Also have a look at the oil drain plug the Gen 1 model plug is quite pronounced and can catch if going down a curb etc ( i know i did it on my first GEN 1 luckily no major damage - but i did miss a beat at the time )
Thanks for the input so far guys,
So what's the real world value of buying this from a dealer.
I'm thinking my bike is worth around £3500 which makes this around £5k?
I started with a black 07 GTR and it got me hooked on the bike back in I think it was 2009 and I loved it.
In some ways the pre 2010 models were more robust than the post 2010 models although they are a bit long in the tooth now. The shock adjusters on the pre 2010 models did not seize, the newer ones were renound for seizing as they were a different type of shock adjuster.
I would check the status of the mechanism of the adjustable screen, if the bike has had an aftermarket screen on it, after ten years it could be quite badly stressed and could be susceptible to snapping. They are not a cheap part to replace.
As previously mentioned, make sure the tyre pressure sensors are working and not bringing any warnings up on the dashboard.
Make sure the wheel bearings are sound.
Try and negotiate a lengthy warranty on the bike, if the dealer has confidence in their stock they should have no qualms in doing this.
I personally feel that it is extremely over priced for the year but if the deal works for you, then that's all that matters. I would say however though that the minute you ride the bike out of the showroom, it's value will be about £3k.
Quote from: Lonewolf on November 05, 2017, 09:06:56 PM
I started with a black 07 GTR and it got me hooked on the bike back in I think it was 2009 and I loved it.
In some ways the pre 2010 models were more robust than the post 2010 models although they are a bit long in the tooth now. The shock adjusters on the pre 2010 models did not seize, the newer ones were renound for seizing as they were a different type of shock adjuster.
I would check the status of the mechanism of the adjustable screen, if the bike has had an aftermarket screen on it, after ten years it could be quite badly stressed and could be susceptible to snapping. They are not a cheap part to replace.
As previously mentioned, make sure the tyre pressure sensors are working and not bringing any warnings up on the dashboard.
Make sure the wheel bearings are sound.
Try and negotiate a lengthy warranty on the bike, if the dealer has confidence in their stock they should have no qualms in doing this.
I personally feel that it is extremely over priced for the year but if the deal works for you, then that's all that matters. I would say however though that the minute you ride the bike out of the showroom, it's value will be about £3k.
Cheers for the input, looking forward to getting it,
I'm a bit worried on it dropping to that value, I've been looking and cheapest I can see with more than double the miles is 4K.
Does anyone know of a bike that is for sale who would take back my tiger?
This is a really good deal if you can risk hanging onto the Tiger and selling it in the New Year
http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=6580.0
Quote from: Lonewolf on November 05, 2017, 09:55:41 PM
This is a really good deal if you can risk hanging onto the Tiger and selling it in the New Year
http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=6580.0
I did send a pm for a number but didn't get a reply,
I managed to ask him through eBay if he'd take the tiger back but he doesn't need another bike unfortunately,
It's a very nice bike and suits me down to ground , I would try buying at a good price but there's a risk I can't sell the tiger which leaves me stuck,
If the OP does see this can you pm me number
ABS rear brake failure on these early non-linked series 1 bikes can be an issue, especially if the fluid has not been changed as recommended. The pedal becomes rock-solid and r brake will not work at all, always happens upon first application of pedal after start-up if failed - ABS warning lamp does not activate to inform rider of rear brake failure.
Quote from: Freddy on November 05, 2017, 10:33:07 PM
ABS rear brake failure on these early non-linked series 1 bikes can be an issue, especially if the fluid has not been changed as recommended. The pedal becomes rock-solid and r brake will not work at all, always happens upon first application of pedal after start-up if failed - ABS warning lamp does not activate to inform rider of rear brake failure.
That's probably because its an ABS warning light not a brake system failure warning light ;)
They are one and the same.
Quote from: Freddy on November 05, 2017, 10:36:52 PM
They are one and the same.
No they're not
An ABS failure doesnt mean the brakes wnt work. In fact having an ABS fault /warning light on isn't an MOT failure (on a motorcycle) as long as the brakes meet the relevant efficiency tests.
One would need to change all the fluids especially fork. Not sure I would trust the brake pads unless they've just been changed. Battery (main) would be suspect. Old bikes with lowish mileage I would steer away from unless you can do the work yourself....oh and tires, how long have they been on? I'd do a lot of reading up on the 08's. They're good rides, I have one, but it's been maintained, not washed much, but definitely maintained.
Quote from: mikeyw64 on November 05, 2017, 10:54:17 PM
No they're not
An ABS failure doesnt mean the brakes wont work. <snip
It does on a series 1 1400GTR with this particular failure. I have first-hand experience.
In fact having an ABS fault /warning light on isn't an MOT failure (on a motorcycle) as long as the brakes meet the relevant efficiency tests.
That's utterly bizarre. Such a bike would and should fail here
Like has been said.If your happy with the deal then go for it. mileage wise if properly maintained they go for ever. and your isnt high.Just get as much as you can out of the dealer.He wants to sell and needs turnover. :clap:
Quote from: Freddy on November 06, 2017, 02:12:17 AM
It does on a series 1 1400GTR with this particular failure. I have first-hand experience.
In fact having an ABS fault /warning light on isn't an MOT failure (on a motorcycle) as long as the brakes meet the relevant efficiency tests.
That's utterly bizarre. Such a bike would and should fail here
The failure you described/experienced
"The pedal becomes rock-solid and r brake will not work at all, always happens upon first application of pedal after start-up if failed"
Is a Brake Failure and not an ABS system failure therefore the ABS Warning Light will not work.
And no it wouldn't pass its MOT with those symptoms as the rear brake efficiency would be below standard
Price is about right from a dealer , its would be a £1000 less private , but that applies to any bike , best deal To be had is no px , like you say you look and they are all higher mileage for less money , I would sell 1050 for a selling price then armed with cash get the best one you can ,, if you sell 1050 in spring then you get best price , then buy gtr in Nov..Dec.. get great deal ,,if it was only so easy ,,,, :biker3:
Quote from: mikeyw64 on November 06, 2017, 06:58:54 AM
The failure you described/experienced
"The pedal becomes rock-solid and r brake will not work at all, always happens upon first application of pedal after start-up if failed"
Is a Brake Failure and not an ABS system failure therefore the ABS Warning Light will not work.
And no it wouldn't pass its MOT with those symptoms as the rear brake efficiency would be below standard
Mike, have you had first-hand experience with this particular failure, diagnosed it, rectified it and reported it to Kawasaki and gov't vehicle safety regulators/monitors and got their response on it? Or is your statement based on theory and general brake system knowledge, or what? Just curious.
Quote from: Freddy on November 06, 2017, 10:29:31 AM
Mike, have you had first-hand experience with this particular failure, diagnosed it, rectified it and reported it to Kawasaki and gov't vehicle safety regulators/monitors and got their response on it? Or is your statement based on theory and general brake system knowledge, or what? Just curious.
No I haven't experienced this issue but its not a fault condition which would cause the ABS System Warning Light to trigger as its not a fault with the ABS system, it's a fault with the Braking System.
Fault Conditions that trigger an ABS Warning light (as from the service manual) are:
(http://sharetheexperience.co.uk/Images/GTR/ABS_Codes.JPG)
:offtopic: Yes Mike, I'm well aware of that. Your logic is correct but the reality of the failure does not equate to the logic or what you show above. The crux of the issue is that the warning system itself is also at fault because the rear brake failure is caused by code 13 and/or 14 faults BUT the warning lamp does NOT illuminate, CONTRARY to what's shown on that page of the service manual. Kawasaki is aware of the warning system failure (which is even more serious than the brake failure itself) but are yet to do something about it as it's a small number of bikes that exhibit this failure. To repeat, the warning system does not function as described. BIG PROBLEM! Kawasaki have replaced an even smaller number of ABS units free of charge so as to get the faulty units back for investigation. Mine was one of the first they got back on this side of the world.
Do a little searching and see what you turn up.
Quote from: Freddy on November 06, 2017, 12:04:42 PM
:offtopic: Yes Mike, I'm well aware of that. Your logic is correct but the reality of the failure does not equate to the logic or what you show above. The crux of the issue is that the warning system itself is also at fault because the rear brake failure is caused by code 13 and/or 14 faults BUT the warning lamp does NOT illuminate, CONTRARY to what's shown on that page of the service manual. Kawasaki is aware of the warning system failure (which is even more serious than the brake failure itself) but are yet to do something about it as it's a small number of bikes that exhibit this failure. To repeat, the warning system does not function as described. BIG PROBLEM! Kawasaki have replaced an even smaller number of ABS units free of charge so as to get the faulty units back for investigation. Mine was one of the first they got back on this side of the world.
Do a little searching and see what you turn up.
Freddy
My comments were based on your statement
Quote
The pedal becomes rock-solid and r brake will not work at all, always happens upon first application of pedal after start-up if failed - ABS warning lamp does not activate to inform rider of rear brake failure.
So the fault symptoms you described refer to a problem with the rear brake not operating due to the fluid not being changed regularly and as you correctly stated if the rear caliper is seized/doesn't operate then the ABS light will *NOT* illuminate, Its not designed too.
Now the situation you've since described is slightly different, you seem to be saying that an ABS failure will cause the rear caliper to lock up solid.
That Said the recall on the Gen1s wasn't in relation to the ABS system, it was something more fundamental
(Search on Kawasaki ZG1400 at http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/searches/search.asp )
--
Concern : REAR BRAKE MAY FAIL
Description : On eligible units of 1400 GTR and 1400GTR ABS models small stones or other road debris can become trapped between the rear brake pedal and guard and prevent the pedal from fully releasing. This can cause over heating potentially leading to rear brake damage and lock up or failure of the rear brake. On 14 GTR ABS models with K-ACT the front brake may also be affected because it is linked with rear brake operation.
--
As long as the brakes work correctly and efficiently then there is no reason not to continue riding even if the ABS light was lit (I rode my ST100 like this for 3 years due to some sensor failure, I just treated it as a Non ABS bike)
Mike, the cause of the problem is not the caliper - it's the ABS unit. Please do some research and post you findings. Or maybe some others will enlighten Mike as I'm getting nowhere. But ignorance is bliss, they say. Over & out. :sleep1:
Quote from: Freddy on November 06, 2017, 12:59:21 PM
Mike, the cause of the problem is not the caliper - it's the ABS unit. Please do some research and post you findings. Or maybe some others will enlighten Mike as I'm getting nowhere. But ignorance is bliss, they say. Over & out. :sleep1:
Freddy I'm not disagreeing with you that there have been a handful of cases (of which it appears you are one) where the rear brake has apparently locked up due to a ABS pump problem caused by poor/non existent flushing.
What I am saying though that as designed the ABS Warning Light will not come on in this scenario (whether or not it should is a different question) and also that the ABS System Warning light is not a generic Brake System Warning light
Although really informative info guys , any help on the bike would also be appreciated
Quote from: big mike on November 06, 2017, 03:37:11 PM
Although really informative info guys , any help on the bike would also be appreciated
As stated dealer price a bit high but thats dealers for you) , GTR1400s only sold in relatively low volumes over here, pretty much bulletproof (odd issues not withstanding such as weepy oil seal on the cam sensor, some potential brake issues as discussed), PITA to service given all the tupperware, make sure it has both key fobs as they cost an arm & a leg (its an early one so should have 2 bulky active fobs, later bikes have 1 bulky active & 1 slim passive, (both contain spare keys)
Make sure you get the owners handbook. It does not fit on the bike, so is easily overlooked.