So my adjuster is a little stiff and I know how to knock the pin out and clean the inside, but that's a pain down on the floor, is the adjuster hydraulic or what? What happens if I undo the adjuster from the pipe? I have no idea but want to sort it on my workbench rather than scrabble around on the floor.
Alan
Put the bike on the centre stand and remove rear shock and adjuster as a whole unit.
Do not undo the connectors at either end of the flexible hose or you'll lose oil and the unit will need refilling and bleeding. Although that can be done, it is a pain in the backside.
If they adjuster is turned fully anti-clockwise there is no pressure in the hydraulic line. The hose can then be disconnected from the adjuster when the adjuster is somewhat inverted to prevent the fluid escaping. I did this just a few weeks ago and lost 1 drop of fluid. Ensure that the open end of the hose and adjuster are kept pointing upwards while the its disconnected. Reassembling requires no bleeding in this scenario. When all back together check to ensure that turning the adjuster clockwise actually compresses the spring - you should feel some resistance after the first turn or two as it does so.
Quote from: Freddy on June 14, 2017, 01:33:45 AM
If they adjuster is turned fully anti-clockwise there is no pressure in the hydraulic line. The hose can then be disconnected from the adjuster when the adjuster is somewhat inverted to prevent the fluid escaping. I did this just a few weeks ago and lost 1 drop of fluid. Ensure that the open end of the hose and adjuster are kept pointing upwards while the its disconnected. Reassembling requires no bleeding in this scenario. When all back together check to ensure that turning the adjuster clockwise actually compresses the spring - you should feel some resistance after the first turn or two as it does so.
Now that sounds like a plan.
Thanks.
If/when you turn the adjuster while disconnected it will push the fluid out but you can twist it back & forth half a turn or so ok. The 1.5mm diameter pin needs to be knocked in a whisker more 2.5mm, being the thickness of the cylinder where the pin is.
The other things to be careful of are the 2 very small balls and springs set into the base of the knob. They provide the half-turn detents you can feel when the balls slot into recesses as the knob it rotated. Try not to lose em.
The rear shocky on my bike developed a leak so I got used one from ebay. The knob on it was seized solid and someone had used multigrips in an attempt to turn it. :angry: The adjuster is still connected to the shocky in the pic below.
(http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab313/Freddy1333/IMAG1955_zpsauze8lkz.jpg)
I ended up using the original adjuster (not the one above) on the used shocky I bought, as I just couldn't see a mangled knob meeting my standards, even if it did work ok.