Kawasaki 1400 GTR

1400 GTR - All Models => 1400GTR Discussion => Topic started by: steveb19 on March 16, 2017, 11:11:51 PM

Title: Clutch prob
Post by: steveb19 on March 16, 2017, 11:11:51 PM
Remember some posts on here a few years ago with similar problem but regarding altitude.
I've Been having a reoccurring problem with clutch last few months. Lost the hydraulic pressure one night.
Fitted new slave and master cylinder seals and new dot 4 fluid.
Month or two later lever almost to bars again. I bled it again .this has happened four times now, no apparent  leaks or fluid loss. Any ideas??? Bike is a 2008  and I've had it from new.
Steve
Title: Re: Clutch prob
Post by: Icefever on March 17, 2017, 04:53:01 AM

This is strange, there's this post here... http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=6253.0    with a similar problem.  I've done my own spannering since I was about 15.
When you think about a hydraulic system, they are very simple.....a lever, master then slave....pull on the lever and if all is ok, and you've replaced all new seals/fluid, it should frigging work???

If there's no sign of a leak what the hell is happening?? have you asked at your local bike shop?? a problem like this makes my head spin.. :wacko: :wacko:
Title: Re: Clutch prob
Post by: wildybeast on March 17, 2017, 06:12:46 AM
If youve deffo got no air in there and youve done the seals the cylinder bores may be worn.When i worked on cars we had a  problem where the clutch hose was starting to collapse internally and was giving us some strange symptoms until we finally found it.A braided one could be an option.Good luck
Title: Re: Clutch prob
Post by: virginiajim on March 17, 2017, 09:47:25 PM
I've never been a big believer in changing seals as they don't usually hold up.  As wildybeast pointed out, the bores could be worn out.  It could also be a hydraulic line as well, especially on a 2008 bike.  As you've done the cylinders, you might want to change the lines out.  If that doesn't work, then I'd replace the master/slave cylinder combination.  Not cheap, I know.   The original Kwackers lines aren't bad at all.  I'd put on what's the less expensive. 
Title: Re: Clutch prob
Post by: Icefever on March 18, 2017, 05:11:06 AM
+1 with the 2 posts above, after seals and new fluid you have to look at the master/slave. I would also go for braided lines, it's going to cost but you have to have it working properly.

You've got to bite the bullet mate, you don't want to loose the clutch when out on a ride.
Title: Re: Clutch prob
Post by: steveb19 on March 18, 2017, 08:55:45 PM
Thanks for tips, I'd  thought maybe one or other scored,so in desperation going to order  a new slave cylinder Monday,try that first. Would explain lack of fluid loss.
Let you all know in due course.
Title: Re: Clutch prob
Post by: SirToU on March 19, 2017, 08:50:00 AM
Just to add my 2p.  I also think its the lines, but have you tried the following.

Cable tie the clutch lever back to the bars,
undo the cap of the reservoir and leave the cap across the top so air cap still escape (no capilarry pressure in the system)
tap all the connections, and flick the clutch line all the way down (or where its accessible).
Leave over night.
I tend to (use to) cover the master with a towel, large cloth, so nothing could enter the system.

This would be my course of action without replacing anything.

Neil
Title: Re: Clutch prob
Post by: wildybeast on March 19, 2017, 08:57:02 AM
Check these out. i had one on my KTM. maybe cheaper than genuine and a bigger bore.. top quality.http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Kawasaki_Clutch_Slave_Cylinders.html    P.S. i think i have a S/H zzr 1400 master cylinder in my shed you could try if yo get stuck.ive never used it so cant guarantee its 100% working Good luck