hi can anyone hazard a guess what my problem might be?
my last journey couple of journeys ive noticed the clutch bite has got close and closer to the grip and last trip it actually stopped disengaging even when lever pulled right in, luckily I got home and stalled it, not one crunched or forced gear.
clutch fluid looks clean and was admittedly at the lower level but nowhere near empty.
any ideas please? where do I tighten the cable? .....
this is my first bike with hydraulic clutch so I'm a bit stumped, I can do most tasks like stripping down calipers clutches etc so should be ok
I did a search on here and saw someone recommend un-bunging a return hole with a piece of wire but I couldn't see much when I took the cap off
it was dark and my eyesights shot so I might have another look depending on what answers I get
tia
edit
there is air in the system right near the piston
that LOW level mark needs renaming TOO LOW
a trick I used to do on my Yamaha rd 350 brakes is unscrew the reservoir cap, position the bars so the feed hole was the highest point in the system and tickle the lever
this would remove all air. I never ever bled the brakes using the nipple
in fact the nipple snapped off first time I tried to undo it :oops:
I tried it on the gtr just now but only got a few bubbles and then just a fine mist now and then
seemed hard to find the most uppermost position using the bars and loosening the mast cyl
in this day and age you would think that they would be designed to self bleed of air?
ive left the lever tie wrapped open and hope all the little bubbles come to mama
I noticed a nipple right next to the cylinder
would this get rid of the air betterer?
when I pull the lever I hear a squishing that sounds like air
I cannot remember the action or feel of the lever as I ride 4 bikes so don't know how far off it is from normal action
prob gonna change the fluid anyway using the trigger spray method I saw on here
could be a number of things, firstly i would bleed the system with fresh fluid.Its basically the same as a hydraulic brake set up. Master cylinder on handlebar and slave cylinder (caliper/piston which pushes a rod)down in front of the gear shift rod.Both have bleed nipples.Start with the master then the slave.Check everything for leaks and slave isnt seized.If no go you may have worn seals in one or both.To test master cylinder i have in the past crimped the pipe close to the cylinder and see if the lever holds pressure when pulled.you must be confident theres no air it so you can eliminate it.seal kits for both are available.Hope this helps Good luck :2guns: Just read your edit.Try open nipple/pull lever/close nipple/release lever. They can be a P.I.A.
The clutch on this bike is very finicky to bleed indeed. Some have had to resort to a power bleeder to get it right, especially if it went momentarily dry.
cheers chaps
the tie wrap seems to have sorted it without needing to bleed the system
the clutch bite is now halfway -2/3rds out
lol cant remember if that was where it was?
I can here a thud/dull clunk from down below (clutch area I assume) when the lever is pulled in
suppose that's the actuator arm or summat
I will get round to bleeding it one day
ta anyway
Probably when you are in the middle of nowhere and it stops working completely..
+1.You are possibly losing fluid.Check for leaks especially down at the slave cylinder and bleed the whole system before it lets go.
puely to satisfy any future search query with someone with the same problem as I realise this is a very old topic
I bled the system and you should have seen the state of the old fluid!!! no wonder it didn't work.
problem solved
I used to do mine every two years out of habit, I have some syringes to suck out almost all the fluid from the top bit, then filled it up with new and bled the system until the new came through.
Even her indoors could help with this.
Quote from: BigAlan on April 08, 2019, 06:37:44 PM
I used to do mine every two years out of habit, I have some syringes to suck out almost all the fluid from the top bit, then filled it up with new and bled the system until the new came through.
Even her indoors could help with this.
providing copious amounts of tea and cake Alan ? :yes:
Quote from: O.C. on April 08, 2019, 07:23:26 PM
providing copious amounts of tea and cake Alan ? :yes:
And the odd squeeze of the lever.
Quote from: BigAlan on April 08, 2019, 07:45:42 PM
And the odd squeeze of the lever.
Ooh err mrs
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Quote from: BigAlan on April 08, 2019, 07:45:42 PM
And the odd squeeze of the lever.
Yes, that always helps.
I had the same problem recently and resolved it by bleeding the system through with new fluid.
:agree:
I've just bled the brakes, no problems. They needed it.
I'm reading these posts to find out where the clutch master bleeder is? I might aswell do it as I'm on.
I've read it's near the idle screw, or in front of the gear selector. I can't see it, unless I'm either thick or can't see the wood for the trees !
Any idea's please?
On your bike it's hidden just behind the foam insulation where the line from the m/cyl attaches. On the earlier bikes it's exposed.
I recently had the same problem as the OP but it wasn't air in the system. It was a loose nut - the one that holds the star springs and clutch basket together. I'd had it off 4 years, 20,000km ago and hadn't fitted a new one like the good book says. :oops: I found the cause after fitting a repair kit to the master & slave cyls and copious amounts of fluid for bleeding. :whistling: Lesson learned.
Thanks for your reply Freddy, I was beginning to think nobody was reading the forum or had no knowledge of it!
I replaced my clutch slave with one from Oberon Engineering. Since then no problems but you do need to refresh the DOT4 every 2 years or so.