so after about a 3 week stay in the garage i decided to go for a ride on the bike today...
TBH i didn't expect it to start after 3 weeks of not being started but it fired up no problem. off i went.
stopped in the local garage to fill up. couldn't get the key out of the ignition to undo the fuel filler. didn't think anything of this. used my other key. started no problem...
about 5 miles further on LOW BATT appears on dashboard.. in hindsight i should have returned home at this point.
I decided i know best and carried on regardless.
after a few more miles the ABS and other lights come on. weird i thought. Surely the alternator should be enough to keep the battery charged when running.
then the dash goes completely dead. no dials, nothing. bike is still running fine at this time.
then i start to think, this is a FI bike. fuel pumps etc.... not like the old bandit.
with that the spluttering started. at this point i realised i should have turned back at the LOW BATT warning.
so i spend about an hour on the side of the A500 awaiting my brilliant mate to come and get me with his trailer.
so my question is?
Battery?
Alternator?
furry wires?
i'll do some tests and report back findings later
First guess is regulator/rectifier
Second is alternator
The gradual failing/ warning signs is battery running down as it is used to run the engine and not being charged
Normally battery 'failure' would show up instantly.
Check all your connections on charging system for furry corrosion. A few basic tests with a multimeter will show if the battery is receiving a charge.
Battery connections, battery, alternator in that order. Remove the battery and take note of the connections. Charge the battery up and crank the bike and measure the charge rate directly on the battery, assuming said bike will run. If the charge rate is 14+ the alternator should be ok. It would then be corrosion on the battery connections, loose connections, or a bad battery. How old is the battery?
Sounds like the alternator to me.
Could be, but we haven't seen a lot of issues in that area. Doesn't mean that it isn't. Biggest issue is loose connections, corroded connections, and bad batteries. Need to charge the battery..hopefully....and then put a meter on it as the bike runs. Course you could do a load test as well. Our auto parts store over here have that capability. I'm sure yours do, although a MC battery is a bit on the smallish side. Not sure if it would work with that.
Furry wires? Never seen a furry wire. Seen a lot of plastic coated ones but never seen any fur on them. Must be endemic to the isles..
Let's keep this problem simple and reasonably cheap - check out the regulator/rectifier!! In fact, if you are not sure how to check the three wires from the alternator, send the r/r to West Country Windings who will charge £10 for a check or put that to a replacement unit if required. I sent a stator and r/r from a friends bike to them believing the stator was faulty and the original was returned with a new r/r which was of far better quality than an OM part.
Sorry - double tap!!
The Regulator Rectifier has failed. the resin backing has let water in and corroded it all to hell.
i'll post a picture up at some point.
seems a ridiculous place to put it too if you ask me.
corrosion in the regulator
Proof that it's always the thing you didn't think of.
You guys need an OMG smiley like we have...so OMG!
Your atmospherics must play a hand in this. I have a hugger installed on my bike which protects (somewhat) the rectifier. Come to think of it, maybe I did see this somewhere now that you are showing the picture.
it's bad design. the mounting position is terrible. I understand it needs air to cool. but it's sat upside down so any wet will sit in it and whilst the resin is supposed to keep the electronics dry it breaks down and lets moisture in. (same thing happens on Peugeot 306's)
for me it should be mounted up near the horns.
anyway my ranting isn't going to change Mr Kawasaki's mind.
its a PITA to get to and i was luck that the bolts didn't shear off. the plugs need some electrical grease on them for re-assemble as they were also an arse to remove.
Quote from: exBanditOwner on November 21, 2015, 04:17:20 PM
Proof that it's always the thing you didn't think of.
Ahem !
First guess is regulator/rectifier
Second is alternator :wink:
Not in the US. Different climate. We just don't run into that particular issue.
I had thought before that positioning of electronics and the non OEM installation ofa hugger could lead to this type of issue,
Its good to know that you are now sorted :yes:
The hugger protects it... I don't see how the hugger could cause that issue. I've had mine since 2008 and my rectifier looks pretty good but now you have me wondering. Next chance I get I'll see if it can be removed with the rear tire still on (hugger removed) and take a look at the back since that's where it looks like the corrosion occurred.
i have a hugger and removed mine without removing anything else.
spray some WD40 on the top of the mounting bolts and work the bolts loose. be patient here as a sheared bolt is easy and will be a proper arse to change, (tank off other stuff off etc)
the Plugs are gits as well. it's just a fight in limited space but be patient and it can be removed.
Even with the hugger it looked that bad? So you can get to it with the hugger on or did you remove it first?
Quote from: doebag on November 21, 2015, 07:59:22 PM
Ahem !
First guess is regulator/rectifier
Second is alternator :wink:
My thought too - had the same issue with my ZX10.... bike ran until I turned it off - the connections on the reg/rect had corroded.
Neil
Quote from: SirToU on November 22, 2015, 09:33:47 PM
My thought too - had the same issue with my ZX10.... bike ran until I turned it off - the connections on the reg/rect had corroded.
Neil
i didn't need to remove the hugger.