Just been out to start my 11 plate and the bike isn't responding to the fob - recently changed the battery in the fob but all seemed fine after that.
I still have the intermittent lashing red light on the dash so assume the battery in the bike is fine.
Any suggestions?
I will try a new keyfob battery just in case.....
It could be the infamous KIPASS stuck switch issue, in which case hitting said switch with a K-rock or silver hammer (Maxwell's) may get it to work correctly. Or the main battery in the bike is being truculent. I would not assume the main battery is ok or the FOB battery. Does anything light up on the display when the switch is pushed down in the off position? The screen should illuminate and a picture of the switch should be displayed. You'll also hear a loud click. Without a fob, nothing should display on the display when the switch is depressed. And by depressed I don't mean a psychological condition. Of course, the rider will be somewhat depressed when this happens. Actually first anger, then depression, then acceptance of the situation. Try replacing the fob battery again and charge the main battery. This bike is very sensitive to low voltages from the main battery. You could also try the credit card fob by holding it near the notch protuberance on the front of the switch housing. And by front, I mean towards the screen. Let us know how it pans out. If all you have is the normal fob then you could try taking the key out of the fob. Use the now uncovered hole in the fob to fit over the described aforementioned protuberance and try it again.
Quote from: PCPeteUK on October 16, 2015, 10:42:54 AM
Just been out to start my 11 plate and the bike isn't responding to the fob - recently changed the battery in the fob but all seemed fine after that.
I still have the intermittent lashing red light on the dash so assume the battery in the bike is fine.
Any suggestions?
I will try a new keyfob battery just in case.....
I know you have changed battery, but you do get the odd duff battery. I would change it again as its a cheap fix to find out if the battery is FOOKed
Yep. But the rf portion of the fob will always work if the fob battery itself is knackered.
Quote from: virginiajim on October 16, 2015, 02:18:35 PM
Yep. But the rf portion of the fob will always work if the fob battery itself is knackered.
Sounds like you have answered the question that was asked then.
Thanks all,
I didn't get a credit card fob - only the chunky one. Bike was second hand when I purchased it and I didn't know to ask for the credit card type.
Nothing light up when key depressed.
I have taken the battery off the bike and it read 6.5v on the tester so i have put it on charge and will source a replacement.
Any recommendations on best replacement?
Glad it was the main battery... Can't help you on that, you may different ones than us in the UK. Somebody should be able to assist, though.
This may do the job, but double check before committing to order ....good luck :smiley:
http://www.getgeared.co.uk/yuasa-motorcycle-battery-ytx14h-bs-gel-battery
These are batteries that we use in the US..
Stock battery FTZ14-BS Furakawa - dealer sourced most likely (expensive)
AGM MBTX12U 14AH by MotoBatt (I have this and it's working fine, no issues)
Shorai battery LFX21A6-BS12 Tender SHO-BMS01a
We've seen lots of issues with connections loosening up and corrosion developing. The charging system will most always show good even though the battery itself may not be getting the correct charging voltage. It doesn't take much of a loose connection for this to happen and the corrosion can be invisible to the naked eye. I always clean and tighten the connections during an oil change. It doesn't take that long and it's good insurance.
apart from cleaning with a wire brush Jim, is there anything I can coat the terminals with to help prevent corrosion?
My current negative terminal was very powdery.....
Petroleum jelly is as good as any plus cheap fix
Trade tip to rid yourself of battery terminal corrosion. Tip boiling water over it. Works every time without effort :yes:
Quote from: Charlie747 on October 17, 2015, 09:23:52 AM
Petroleum jelly is as good as any plus cheap fix
Trade tip to rid yourself of battery terminal corrosion. Tip boiling water over it. Works every time without effort :yes:
Good advice......Oh BTW take the battery off the bike before administering the boiling water :yes: .....yes I'm serious, I once heard of someone trying it with the battery in situ :mfr_lol: :oops:
Quote from: O.C. on October 17, 2015, 10:39:49 AM
Good advice......Oh BTW take the battery off the bike before administering the boiling water :yes: .....yes I'm serious, I once heard of someone trying it with the battery in situ :mfr_lol: :oops:
:agree: I've heard of whole jars of petroleum jelly being used to lubricate the tight orifice protecting a battery ! :whistling:
Quote from: Charlie747 on October 17, 2015, 09:23:52 AM
Petroleum jelly is as good as any plus cheap fix
Trade tip to rid yourself of battery terminal corrosion. Tip boiling water over it. Works every time without effort :yes:
Boiling water? Never heard of that one. Grease yes, that's what my father-in-law did to his batteries. I haven't seen visible corrosion on my battery terminals, but then I live in a drier climate as well. I could see hurting myself with boiling water.. I have a bad enough time just walking around, let alone with a boiling pot of water. I've found that with corrosion around battery terminals (auto), the battery is getting ready to give up. Keeping the terminals tight with a light coating of jelly (I prefer Damson) should do the trick.
Strawberry works for me Jim :mfr_lol:
Raspberry seedless :mfr_lol:
Thanks all - appreciated (and it made me smile)
Quote from: PCPeteUK on October 18, 2015, 09:30:51 AM
Thanks all - appreciated (and it made me smile)
That's why we all like this place Pete :punk:
PS def strawberry jam 👍
PPS If all else fails.................
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=78b67l_yxUc
He's have more success with a hammer or a rock...