For months now I`v been suffering with a problem with the KIPASS ignition switch not working properly. The only way I could switch the ignition on was to bash the top hat, with a gloved hand, or knock the side of the ignition switch with a spanner and wait for a click before I could turn the ignition on.
First of all I took the side cover off the switch to revel the solenoid and give that a good clean with some electrical contact cleaner, but no joy still same problem.
Then I put some 3in1 into the key slot but nothing. Then I noticed that the top ring moved up and down and under the piece of ring that sticks out to the left at 9 o`clock there is a micro switch that had become stuck. After a bit of gentle prodding with a small narrow screwdriver and some electrical contact cleaner and some 3in1 the micro switch is now free and the KIPASS switch top hat is now activated with a slightest touch and not a bashing as before.
Hope this helps anyone who is having a problem with their KIPASS ignition switch.
Nice find and info mate :)
Thanks for the info :-)
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It would seem this micro switch might be the cause of a lot of peoples KIPASS problems and their not been aware that the switch is even there. It could be its not the spring or solenoid but this hidden micro switch that's been the root of the problem all a long, getting crudded up and sticking. This micro switch when the top hat is pushed down is what activates the KIPASS and allows the ignition to be turned on to start the bike. At the end of the day its just a case of keeping this micro switch clean and free. No need for work around mods and extra switchs to trick the KIPASS.
The pics show where this micro switch lives, you can just make it out under the metal tag. This can get stuck down and needs to be teased with a narrow screwdriver and a squirt of WD40 to free it. Make it part of your maintenance routine to check that its free, if you have your FOB with you as you to touch the micro switch you can make it out clicking away which shows its free.
model 2011+ recieved a stronger spring. The old part no. was 27006-0074
and was replaced with this new switch 27006-0559. I replaced my switch under warranty and never had any problems for more than 2 years.
Hi,
New to this forum. I'm glad I found out the solution to the problem!!
Thank you very much for posting it, thank you! You just saved me $500.
Very welcome here.
That's why friends annex this forum are for😜 :banana:
Quote from: Honzacaf on April 16, 2016, 04:37:09 AM
Hi,
New to this forum. I'm glad I found out the solution to the problem!!
Thank you very much for posting it, thank you! You just saved me $500.
Welcome Honza
Welcome to the forum Honza, you will find plenty good advice and plenty fun
Drop into the intro section and tell us more about yourself :smiley:
Well worth doing just for peace of mind.
One thing I've been meaning to ask though, how is the key/top hat removed. I have looked in the manual and even asked my uncle who used to own a GTR, but I can't get it to shift.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
If you turn the KEY/TOP HAT to the right,ignition on,then further in the clockwise position marked as FSS,you should be able to pull it out
And before you ask, FSS stands for Fuel, Seat and Saddlebags :laugh:
Quote from: Burchy on April 18, 2016, 11:57:24 AM
And before you ask, FSS stands for Fuel, Seat and Saddlebags :laugh:
always wondered what that stood for but did not dare ask!
What's the fun in fixing it? I won't have anything to swear at and won't have to carry a hammer around anymore. We've always known it was a sticking switch, at least in the US. It's happened to me twice on the road. Beating it severely and swearing got me going both times. One of our members came up with a temporary bypass. I'd give you the link to it but our forum has been down a few days. I'm hoping the owner gets it fixed but they've had a 4ft snow storm in Colorado and he's smack in the middle of it.
Forum back up... http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.0
Excellent write up on what you (Bongo) did on yours :banana:. Kawasaki came out with a stronger spring but it's not on the parts list because it's internal to the switch. They just changed the switch. I've heard of a case or two where they just replaced the spring but if you are really having a time with it, they replace the whole assembly.
Cheers, I'll give it a go tomorrow. If it doesn't work, I'll just brush up on my swearing technique lol
Quote from: Burchy on April 18, 2016, 11:57:24 AM
And before you ask, FSS stands for Fuel, Seat and Saddlebags :laugh:
If I can't get the key out, it'll be FFS! :grin: