Ladies and gents.
How many miles would you normally get from the pads .
I know it all depends on weight carried and every body rides differently regarding braking .
Today I had her mot'd no problems or advisoys she has done 19000 and in all the history I have I cannot find anything stating pad changes so I presume they are original .
I . Asked the test centre to check but they just said there are four small pads it may pay to change them.
And I don't like messing with things this critical any help gratefully received. :sweatdrop:
There are 8 pads up front and 2 in the rear. About $100 US on the front and $40 US on the rear- different manufacturers use different numbers of pads per container so the price is the easiest way to tell how many you will be getting.
If they are original equipment (OEM) they will have wear indicators in them in the form of grooves. If you can see the groove, they are not yet worn out. The pads for this bike (and most motorcycles) are quite thin when new and in my experience, most people change them out long before they are worn out. You can check the pads yourself with nothing but a strong light and maybe a mirror; you should check the pads top and bottom in the event they are not wearing evenly. But 1/16" (1.5 mm) is still a fair amount of pad material IMO. And given that they are quite expensive, I try to use all the pad material- although of course not until the steel backing plates touch the rotors.
Brian
Quote from: pross on May 06, 2014, 10:36:22 PM
Ladies and gents.
How many miles would you normally get from the pads .
I know it all depends on weight carried and every body rides differently regarding braking .
Today I had her mot'd no problems or advisoys she has done 19000 and in all the history I have I cannot find anything stating pad changes so I presume they are original .
I . Asked the test centre to check but they just said there are four small pads it may pay to change them.
And I don't like messing with things this critical any help gratefully received. :sweatdrop:
Great parts at a price of 120 Euros.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/wiwo7d.jpg)
MGvalerio :yes:
Changed mine last Saturday after 15000 miles, although i do plenty of town riding as well, they were almost down to the metal and changing them in easy peasy, allen key, pliers and perhaps a screwdriver to prise the old ones out, clean everything and copperslip the back of the pads and threads of the bolts.
Sorted.
Alan
Thanks for that BigAlan.it looks like I may attempt this.
will any fluid need removing the level are on the line on mine ?,due to the new pads and any preference for the pads
I never topped my fluid up so when I put the new pads in the levels went back to normal, I got EBC sintered pads from eBay and am well pleased.
One tip, have a torch handy as when you slide the pin back in through the top of the two pads and the retaining clip take a look at both side to ensure the pin does go through the pads, I once after cleaning the old ones put them back in and pushed the pad down and missed going through the hole, luckily I went back to clean the wheels and spotted it.
It's not difficult, if you were around Oxford I could show you.
Alan
There's a guide here:
http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic,302.0.html
Defo put ebc hh sintered pads in. I used stock pads and went through 6 sets of discs in16k miles all warped. Change to ebc and no further issues. Check the pins go in correctly. Very easy to miss leading to pad dropping out. I didn't have that happen to me in northern holland and have to ride back to the uk with just rear brakes honest. :)
SP
Quote from: SPCK111 on May 08, 2014, 02:16:23 AM
I didn't have that happen to me in northern holland and have to ride back to the uk with just rear brakes honest. :)
SP
:oops: & :oops: :oops:............................. :mfr_lol:
I am forewarned :yes:
thanks all for the help.
and thanks Kwikasfuki for that link the pictures make it look easy :yes:.
I will remember to check the pins are through :mfr_lol:
Quote from: pross on May 08, 2014, 10:16:56 AM
thanks all for the help.
and thanks Kwikasfuki for that link the pictures make it look easy :yes:.
I will remember to check the pins are through :mfr_lol:
http://youtu.be/HkSRKRSFU4s
MGvalerio
Yes it is a very easy procedure changing the pads, as in MG's video though the only two additional things I would do personally is clean out the callipers with break fluid using a tooth brush to prevent crap being forced behind the seals when you install thicker/new discs.
Secondly and this is only personal preference but possibly best practice, I always use a torque wrench on my nuts!
Quote from: The Wolf on May 08, 2014, 01:49:21 PM
Yes it is a very easy procedure changing the pads, as in MG's video though the only two additional things I would do personally is clean out the callipers with break fluid using a tooth brush to prevent crap being forced behind the seals when you install thicker/new discs.
Secondly and this is only personal preference but possibly best practice, I always use a torque wrench on my nuts!
It's Brake not break, not that i am being pedantic mind :mfr_lol:
And you can do your nuts up to any torque you want, it as you say is a personal thing. :agree:
Alan
Thanks all for your help. cracking video mg.
Would you do the rear as well and are they the same/similar procedure
Quote from: pross on May 08, 2014, 04:38:08 PM
Thanks all for your help. cracking video mg.
Would you do the rear as well and are they the same/similar procedure
the same/similar procedure. :yes:
MGvalerio
Apologies for the spelling mistake! :mfr_lol:
Steve, it wasn't spelled wrong, it was the wrong word :mfr_lol:
Quote from: Rossendale Rider on May 09, 2014, 09:55:07 AM
Steve, it wasn't spelled wrong, it was the wrong word :mfr_lol:
It was spelt incorrectly in the context in which it was written and for that I apologise profusely. :popcorn:
Quote from: The Wolf on May 09, 2014, 02:34:33 PM
It was spelt incorrectly in the context in which it was written and for that I apologise profusely. :popcorn:
Can yow writ stuff so us black country folk con read it cheers mucka I bay kiddin yow it's hard :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:
Quote from: BigAlan on May 07, 2014, 08:03:58 AM
Changed mine last Saturday after 15000 miles, although i do plenty of town riding as well, they were almost down to the metal and changing them in easy peasy, allen key, pliers and perhaps a screwdriver to prise the old ones out, clean everything and copperslip the back of the pads and threads of the bolts.
Sorted.
Alan
done the brakes today good and bad news as wolf and Bigalan and others said a couple of hours well spent cleaned with a toothbrush and copper sliped the back of the pads and pins :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:.
the pads didn't look to bad all flat no edges a good sign they look like the originals not much difference in depth after 19000. guess which numpty only bought 4 for the front :censored: another 4 ordered.
front seem fine after pumping the lever to work,
the rear don't seem to have much stopping power at the moment will they need to bed in ?? not spongy just don't seem much there.
I am back at work Monday so I can sort out a castle nut to clean the bobbins :clap: :clap:
The rear brake on the GTR is quite wimpy. You really have to stomp on it to slow the bike noticably. Front brakes are awesome though.
Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk
Quote from: Boomer on May 29, 2014, 08:30:32 PM
The rear brake on the GTR is quite wimpy. You really have to stomp on it to slow the bike noticably. Front brakes are awesome though.
Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk
Thanks for that boomer as you say you normally wouldn't notice but after changing the pads you start worrying :mfr_lol: