I have been able to repair my preload adjuster by taking it apart.. It was quite easy and here are the instructions..
These are for the late models 2010-14
First as Asif had mentioned there is a tiny pin on the reverse.
I took the adjuster off, found the pin and got to work on it with a hammer.. :mfr_lol: Small taps on a small screwdriver used for taking mobile phones apart... :mfr_lol: I fitted it back on backwards to get a pic.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/20140501_155123_zpsad668a5d.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/20140501_155123_zpsad668a5d.jpg.html)
I used a metal block and hammer to tap the knob off evenly. Once off you could see all the crap inside. Notice the 2 springs and ball bearings.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/20140501_155215_zps78a0c657.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/20140501_155215_zps78a0c657.jpg.html)
Ensure you keep these safe as they are so small its easy to lose them. :yes:
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/20140501_155314_zps7309b12e.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/20140501_155314_zps7309b12e.jpg.html)
Once the knob was off I looked for the pin that would have gone in to the plastic.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/IMG_4872_zps97f99459.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/IMG_4872_zps97f99459.jpg.html)
Using a pair of nose pliers I got it out. Remember to keep this in a safe place.. Its about 6mm long.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/IMG_4873_zps18c78807.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/IMG_4873_zps18c78807.jpg.html)
I then cleaned the adjuster using my Dremel with a wire brush attachment.. I then had to use some emery paper as well. Once cleaned it looked good.. :banana: I also run the emery paper around the knob to give it that little more ease to turn.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/IMG_4879_zps5e39c868.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/IMG_4879_zps5e39c868.jpg.html)
When putting it back together ensure you put the pin in the hole first. I did try at first with the knob back in but dropped the pin. Thankfully I found it again... phew.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/IMG_4881_zps724b6353.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/IMG_4881_zps724b6353.jpg.html)
Next you need to insert the springs and balance the ball bearings on them.
(http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y411/bikergirl1400/IMG_4882_zps6d43b3d7.jpg) (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/bikergirl1400/media/IMG_4882_zps6d43b3d7.jpg.html)
Undo the adjuster bolt so it is nearly fully out. This makes it easier to put the knob back in. Ensure the adjuster is upside down and insert the knob. Once in I used pipe grips to push the pin back in...
All done and its really easy to turn. :clap: :clap:
Great work Debs, thanks for trailblazing and sharing.
So which part actually seizes? It looks like the actual adjuster mechanism (the big nut) was still moving freely on yours, and I am struggling to imagine how the black plastic adjuster can sieze to the metal casing.
Martin.
It was the knob that hardly turned from all the crap that had got in :yes:
Before
http://youtu.be/aUIBp2ooV90
Great work Debs, putting us guys to shame with all your repairs
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Well done Debs. Luckily for me the 08/09 adjuster doesn't have that problem.
Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk
:clap: top job!!
Quote from: Debs on May 01, 2014, 06:49:36 PM
It was the knob that hardly turned from all the crap that had got in :yes:
Before
http://youtu.be/aUIBp2ooV90
Debs your my hero, well done for having a go.. :clap: BUT ya should have put some tape around the adjuster knob, so that when you had finished, it didn't look like a dog had chewed it :embarrassed: :mfr_lol:
Excellent work there Debs! I knew that pin had to be there for a reason! Thank you for taking the risk and getting to the bottom of the problem. And thanks for taking the pics as well.
Has anyone taken apart the 08/09 model adjuster? Keen to see what the difference is.
Once cleaned out, would there be any harm in packing it with grease? That way its a one off maintenance job.
Quote from: 100milesaway on May 01, 2014, 09:04:09 PM
Debs your my hero, well done for having a go.. :clap: BUT ya should have put some tape around the adjuster knob, so that when you had finished, it didn't look like a dog had chewed it :embarrassed: :mfr_lol:
Niel (sirtou) just said the same thing to me on Facebook... Said I should have used a tea towel...
I will get the knob cleaned up on a buffer.. :yes:
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on May 01, 2014, 09:06:13 PM
Has anyone taken apart the 08/09 model adjuster? Keen to see what the difference is.
MG has.. The 08/09 has an extra part that comes out with the bolt.
The bolt will not come out on the later ones. :no:
You could pack it out with grease, but it wouldn't take much as the knob goes all the way in. The bolt travels up and down the centre of the knob as it's turned.
Job well done. Thanks for sharing.
:clap:
top job debs :clap:
Blimey! I always wondered what you lot were on about with the preload adjuster seizing!
Great tutorial and v interesting vid. I hope mine doesn't do that!
Ros
That really explains and simplifies the procedure for potentially fixing the shock, excellent, many thanks for that Debs.
Again thanx Debs
Sent from my iPhone by mini Elves.
Im going to get some Silkolene Pro RG2 Synthetic Grease as it will be good for the 2 bearings and its a good water repellant. Hopefully that will stop it happening ever again.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILKOLENE-PRO-RG2-SYNTHETIC-RACING-GREASE-1-x-177-g-/370303719369?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5637d257c9
Great work Debs. Been said on here before but a regular squirt with ACF should prevent it happening again.
Tom
When you knocked in the little pin, did it force itself into the plastic knob or was there a hole of sorts already there?
You'd think any decent mechanic at a Kawasaki dealer would be able to do that rather than say " buy a new shock"
Good job, Debs.
It forced its self in to the plastic knob as the groove it sits in is to enable the knob to turn but not come out.
It makes more sense to repair it than throw it away for a new one.
Quote from: Burchy on May 03, 2014, 09:24:29 PM
When you knocked in the little pin, did it force itself into the plastic knob or was there a hole of sorts already there?
You read my mind.
Debs,
Just wanted to say thank you again for this. I finally got round to doing mine this weekend and it is a very simple job indeed. 45 minutes tops and most of that was the cleaning of the dismantled adjuster.
I am simply astounded that Kawasaki have been replacing so many of these under warranty when the fix is so straight-forward.
Martin.
I still intend to do mine as it often gets quite stiff. I might wait till after the bike meet though just in case I :censored: It up. :mfr_lol:
Thought it might be useful to resurrect Debs advice on fixing a seized rear preload adjuster because....
Mine is seized and I wanted to know, before I follow Debs advice, do you actually remove the preload unit from the rubber pipe? Or remove the pin etc etc with the unit still attached, via the pipe, to the shock.
If yes might have a go myself then! :shocked:
Many thanks
Leave the flex pipe attached or you will be in a whole new world of trying to eliminate air from a closed system
Quote from: Burchy on October 08, 2020, 12:10:29 PM
Leave the flex pipe attached or you will be in a whole new world of trying to eliminate air from a closed system
:agree:
Thanks guys, the shock looks fairly straightforward to remove so I think i'll have a go at the fix over the winter.
I don't suppose there's any chance of Deb's photo's being resurrected is there?
:cool:
Quote from: Moogus on October 08, 2020, 07:23:57 PM
Thanks guys, the shock looks fairly straightforward to remove so I think i'll have a go at the fix over the winter.
I don't suppose there's any chance of Deb's photo's being resurrected is there?
:cool:
I think that only Debs can do that, unfortunately she doesn't visit the site much, if at all, these days.
Ah, ok...thanks anyway :smiley:
I did mine a few years ago. The PO had tried and failed. I drilled the hole in the top and used a punch to knock the cylinder down after supporting the knob on the vice jaws. The lock pin is on the inside of the cyl and needs to be tapped in about 3mm in order to remove the knob.
(http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/31926061690e633ddbaa7557f55288c8a41cc85d.jpg)
(http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/3ba16d1b0437d4ad5971554082e7386d08c99677.jpg)
(http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/6e93681110c10b1c339fd3cda560502dcb47378c.jpg)
Once the offending item is 'freed' then it is a good idea to protect the adjuster from further dirt ingress, such things as smeared grease or better still a kiddies balloon can be stretched over the knob, other items designed to be stretched over knobs could be applied :mfr_lol:
Excellent
Thanks for the pics. I'll definitely have a play over winter...need to renew front and rear pads as well.
Kiddies balloon or similar :mfr_lol:
The very same adjuster is fitted to some Honda models - VFR1200X for example, where it's mounted horizontally. They have the same issue, only more so and Honda were replacing them if seized while under warranty. They now come with a square section O ring that sits against the knob to keep most of the crud from entering.
Quote from: Freddy on October 10, 2020, 11:51:52 PM
The very same adjuster is fitted to some Honda models - VFR1200X for example, where it's mounted horizontally. They have the same issue, only more so and Honda were replacing them if seized while under warranty. They now come with a square section O ring that sits against the knob to keep most of the crud from entering.
Good information :clap: