Regarding the flat battery.
I had been out all day Saturday on her put her in the shed datatool alarmed only on Thursday went to use and it was as flat as a pancake :censored: it was left turned off as I said only the alarm.
How long should it hold charge for parked up like this any ideas or is my battery f#*#ed.
I have also been informed to remove the push start button as this will drain the battery as well ?.
Is this true any help much appropriated also in the shed its in a bumpstop so no steering lock. :ohplease: :help:
After fitting a new (Yuasa) battery before the winter, mine will hold its charge for at least two weeks (probably more, but two weeks is the longest that I have left it). Before changing the battery (at just over 18 months old) it would discharge sufficiently to make cold starting a concern after as little as 2 - 3 days.
Quote from: flatfour on April 26, 2014, 10:24:36 AM
After fitting a new (Yuasa) battery before the winter, mine will hold its charge for at least two weeks (probably more, but two weeks is the longest that I have left it). Before changing the battery (at just over 18 months old) it would discharge sufficiently to make cold starting a concern after as little as 2 - 3 days.
Thanks for that flatfour.
This May be the original so I will look at fitting a new one before my hols and keep using the optimate charger till it's replaced I thought 4 days was poor with or without the alarm on just needed some confirmation on this of this class site :clap:
Well I do not use any battery chargers and never have, but I do make a point of running my bikes up to full operating temp at least every 2 weeks, usually every week during the winter. sounds like your battery is stuffed or you have a problem in your electrics, I would look at alarm first.
Personally, I would look at the date on the battery, it could well be the original, and therefore nearly 5 years old.
They do not last forever, particularly when not regularly used. My daily driver van is still on it's original battery at six years old, my 'boys toy' car is now on it's third in fifteen years [ average of one every five years ]
An optimate will maximise it's life, but my guess is it is due for retirement.
Thanks all for the imput .
I am in agreement I think it's knackered has anyone used the new ion type or stick to the old school
Quote from: pross on April 26, 2014, 02:15:05 PM
... has anyone used the new ion type ...
I bought one of these ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZZR-1400-ZX1400A7F-2007-Lithium-Ion-Battery-YTX14-BS-LithiumIon-/110948322719?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19d5090d9f (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZZR-1400-ZX1400A7F-2007-Lithium-Ion-Battery-YTX14-BS-LithiumIon-/110948322719?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19d5090d9f)) Lithium Ion batteries for mine about 4 months ago, when my original battery died.
They are twice the price of the conventional battery, but are supposed to much longer, I am sure I read somewhere these are supposed to last 2,000 cycles rather than the 4 or 500 of a normal battery. They are also 20% of the weight of a conventional battery, but that will not be noticeable on our 300kg machines.
It works perfectly, and I subsequently bought a second one for my racebike, that is also working perfectly.
Martin.
ps: Important note - make sure you check the *charging* performance of the bike, and make sure you are getting 14.2 to 14.4V when the bike is running. When my bike started having starting issues, the battery voltage was low but this was because the rectifier had failed and the bike was only charging at 12.8V. This took the headlight relay out at the same time.
I have two bike's,a 1400 gtr & a Yamaha 1300 xjr,when they are not in use they are both on trickle charge from solar panel's.ie one to each bike,as I have no power to the out building where they are kept,it work's for me,it cost me about £50 for each that's the solar panel,wire,battery ect ect.i've never had a FLAT battery issue.
Martin as you state.
On Saturday and Thursday after charging the bike display was showing 14.4V.
The optimate charger is showing 12.8V :wacko:
After a recommendation by a member on here I checked the battery alas it was the original one it's done well 5 yrs.rather than parting with £100+ at the dealer's I purchased the yuasa YTX 14-BS.of flea-bay for £45. 6 months warranty and Delivered
( this was recommended on this site ) cock on in size all dimensions except for markings you would think it's the same . :clap:
In this months Motorcycle Monthly [page 22] there is a test of a Li-Ion battery versus a standard lead acid on a Z1000SX.
The Li-Ion weighs a 1000g and has a CCA of 210 amps. The Lead acid weighs 3140g and has a CCA of 175. Both batteries gave 24 by 10 second engine cranks before losing power, but the Li-Ion keeps full power till the end [ like the Duracell bunny] compared to a Lead Acid
http://www.morebikes.co.uk/shoraitest/
Li-ion batteries also handle shallow cycling better than lead-acid do.
Most motor use requires a short burst of high current (starting) followed by a long period of charging.
The time spent not charging (parked) allows the lead-acid batteries plates to de-sulphate but eventually the damage to the plates caused by the starting current and continuous sulphating/de-sulphating just kills a lead-acid.
Li-ion on the other hand do not suffer from sulphation (or similar processes) but talk of discharge cycles is useless info unless it is qualified.
How deep are the discharges? How fast are the discharges? How is it charged?
Li-ion batteries have higher energy density but are more complex. They have built in electronics that limits charging & discharge currents, will refuse to charge if below 0°C or over 45°C, and once cell voltage drops to 2.5V (nominal is 3.2) it will become impossible to charge the battery so most cut off when it hits 2.7v as that way it can still be charged.
In a 4 cell battery nominal is 12.8V (4x 3.2V) with a maximum charging voltage of 14.4V
Hi Boomer.
that info is well over my head :mfr_lol:
I read a somewhere if you ride all year round don't use a Li-ion as as you may have worded better it cuts of at 2.7V.
:agree:
Go Boomer
Sent from my iPhone by mini Elves.
Don't you mean Lithium IRON Phosphate LiFePO4 :-) I read the same free paper...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery)
http://shoraipower.com/products?action=vehicle&type=175&make=1057&model=7876&year=7876 (http://shoraipower.com/products?action=vehicle&type=175&make=1057&model=7876&year=7876)
http://www.morebikes.co.uk/shoraitest/ (http://www.morebikes.co.uk/shoraitest/)
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