Disclaimer: This is to show how I do an oil change. Please consult a professional for your oil changes. Do not attempt on your own as hot oil will burn and scald. You may also invalidate your warranty.
Firstly, here's the the toolset required. What's missing from the photo is the magnetic telescope rod that allows for easy retrieval of nuts and bolts
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/a.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/a.jpg.html)
Also need an old towel as an oil rag
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Any excuse to take the bike out and get it up to temperature. Oil is best removed when hot
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/c.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Get it on the centre stand
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/d.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
The sump drain plug has moved on the newer models
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/e.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Had to take care when removing the drain plug. The oil will squirt out. Did I mention its HOT?
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/f.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Somewhere in that blackness is the plug. That oil is HOT. So I'll use my magnetic pickup tool to retrieve it
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/g.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Here's a better view of the oil filter. Most of the time this is on tight. It should never be on that tight as it only should ever be torqued to 13 ft lbs. However, torquing it is hard, so most dealers over tighten. However, this can ruin the threads
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/h.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
I had to move the oi drain pan out of the way, so temporarily put the drain plug back in. Then applied the oil filter removal tool
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/i.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Close up here. It really grips the oil filter
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/j.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Now to appy some oil to the new filter before assembly
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/k.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/l.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Reattach the new filter and hand tightened. Then grabbed the removal tool and tightened a touch more to make it nice and snug.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/m.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Replaced the old crush washer with new. Didn't have to do this as old one was fine, but the cost of a new one is a few pennies
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/n.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Cleaned the silver area and applied a bit of oil. This is where the crush washer will mate
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/o.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
The sump plug needs to be torqued at 22ft lbs
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/p.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/q.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
So, oil has been drained, filter replaced, sump plug back on with new washer and all correcly tightened
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/r.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And here is the oil I'm using. Yes, I know, I've gone for fully synthetic. I prefer using it once my bike has over 20k miles. The large container has 4L and the smaller 1L making 5L in total. To get the 4.7L in the bike, all the 4L container will be used, and 0.7L of the smaller container
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/s.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
The containers show the volume of oil in them which is handy. On the smaller one, I shall stop when I get to 300ml
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/t.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Time to add the oil to the bike. Make sure you clean around the filler plug as there can be dirt and grime that may fall in
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/u.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/v.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And what it looks like with the plug removed
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/w.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Make sure the funnel is cleaned as well. I use mine for allsorts
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/x.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And start pouring in the oil.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/y.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Replace the oil filler plug once all the oil from the 4L container plus 0.7L oil of the smaller container has been added
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/za.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
All the 4L container used. And only 0.7L of the smaller container used
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/z.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Oil sump is nice and full. This should settle down once I go for a ride
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/zb.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
But before I do, check, check and check again!
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/zc.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And after the ride that is pretty much perfect
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/zd.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Finally, get rid of the oil in a responsible manner
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/ze.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And that's how I do my oil changes. Doesn't take long
Interesting point that you get your oil HOT and then let the plug go, ive always got my oil warm and kept hold of the plug, the hotter the oil is the more in theory will drop out, I think I will start doing that in future. Ive also fitted a magnetic sump plug to keep hold of any metal debris, i know the engine is non magnetic aluminium but I still see some traces steel debris on the magnet
Worth noting that there is a large hex socket available which is an exact fit, i find this much easier than the clamp tool and easier to torque up
(http://images.esellerpro.com/2873/I/25/3117.jpg)
I did have one of those. :censored: knows where I put it (see my thread on organising my tools).
Good point about the magnetic drain plug. I will remember to buy one next time.
Good post, thanks. Yeah, when my service is due I'll replace the drain plug with a magnetic one same as my GS. I've always used K&N oil filters, they have the nut on the end which is very useful. Some people put oil in the new filter before replacing it, don't know why, I never have with the GS, and I won't with the GTR either. I only ever put oil on the rubber seal not in the threads.
Quote from: viper on March 02, 2014, 04:40:39 PM
Interesting point that you get your oil HOT and then let the plug go, ive always got my oil warm and kept hold of the plug, the hotter the oil is the more in theory will drop out, I think I will start doing that in future. Ive also fitted a magnetic sump plug to keep hold of any metal debris, i know the engine is non magnetic aluminium but I still see some traces steel debris on the magnet
Worth noting that there is a large hex socket available which is an exact fit, i find this much easier than the clamp tool and easier to torque up
Replaced my filter a few weeks ago and this tool simple twisted the filter and distorted it. Think the dealer must have over tightened it when they did it's last oil change. Now have both tools just in case :banana:
(http://images.esellerpro.com/2873/I/25/3117.jpg)
Handy little topic, I like the tool you have used for removing the oil filter, is it home made, I've never seen anything like that.
It goes without saying also I'm sure that after Asif has changed the oil he washes the bike, perhaps one day he'll do a step by step photo guide on that. :popcorn:
Good guide. Just a couple of points :
1. you can reuse a crush washer (my crush washer has gone through 3 oil changes thus far and is still going strong),
2. before draining , open the oil filler cap. This allows the oil to freely drain since it doesn't have to "fight" a vacuum.
3. if you're an old hand , a torque wrench is optional. If you've EVER spun a thread on anything , buy a torque wrench.
4. change the rear-drive fluid with every oil change. So easy to do , so little oil and results in peace of mind.
5. before doing the oil change , do clean the bike. If my bike looked like the one in the photo , I'd be very disappointed in myself ... :smiley:
.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Britool-E117117B-Belt-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0051HFZ9I
that's the one
Asif, many thanks.
Pistole, for the sake of maybe ten pence I'd replace the crush washer just for piece of mind. Regrettably with all the crap we have on our roads over here in the UK, getting the bike dirty is just one of life's little pains. If memory serves me correctly you live in Singapore, (lucky bugger), been a few times as you know and your roads are first class and your weather isn't too bad either, despite the occasional storms and heavy downpours.
Yeah , understood. You chaps have some really awful weather over there.
last point : in the owner's manual , Kawasaki does not actually specify semi or fully synthetic. They only have specifications for the weight of the oil and the JASO/MA rating.
have run this Sikolene Comp4 before but found that the performance degraded too quickly. Have had much better experience from Motul (5100 , 300V , etc).
.
and a picture re our weather here :
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a493/changtausian/P2BLK_zps7044f817.jpg)
.
Someone needs to do a guide on how to clean bike!
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on March 03, 2014, 01:51:26 PM
Someone needs to do a guide on how to clean bike!
And I'm thinking that may not be you Asif :mfr_lol:
Quote from: O.C. on March 03, 2014, 04:32:40 PM
And I'm thinking that may not be you Asif :mfr_lol:
no, but I want to give then bike a good clean this weekend
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on March 04, 2014, 03:26:16 PM
no, but I want to give the bike a good clean this weekend
He might want to, but he wont! :whistling:
Great post :smiley:
Some very interesting tips there too.
:mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:
Quote from: The Wolf on March 04, 2014, 03:32:07 PM
He might want to, but he wont! :whistling:
In a bind I've heard of people reusing their beaten up copper crush washer by heating it up over a flame until cherry red hot... it apparently helps it back to shape??? Likewise, if you don't have a special tool, jab a pointy something through it to remove it - you're not re-using it???
:shocked:
It doesn't get it back into shape Stephen, but is supposed to soften the copper up to allow the sump plug to bite into it when tightened to obtain a seal
You do not think that the washer screw cap does not allow engine oil drip oil, this serves to do loosen the screw, guys disappoint me!
MGvalerio. :grin:
Non penserete che la rondella della vite del tappo olio motore non permetta gocciolamento olio,questa serve per non fare allentare la vite,ragazzi mi deludete!
MGvalerio :grin:
Quote from: MGvalerio on March 10, 2014, 06:35:10 AM
You do not think that the washer screw cap does not allow engine oil drip oil, this serves to do loosen the screw, guys disappoint me!
MGvalerio. :grin:
Non penserete che la rondella della vite del tappo olio motore non permetta gocciolamento olio,questa serve per non fare allentare la vite,ragazzi mi deludete!
MGvalerio :grin:
:mfr_lol:
Much as I hate to rehash older posts but just a tip since I've just changed my oil today and nobody seems to have mentioned it....
Remember folks for those that will run their bike to warm the engine up and make it easier for the oil to drain... beware the hot catalytic converter under the engine right beside the sump bung. My fat fingers strayed a bit and I got rewarded with a couple of burnt fingers. :censored:
Maybe nobody else mentioned it because they're smarter and it's only me being kack handed.
Hahahahaha always wear engineering workshop gloves.................................. cos I done it once before on a car :)
Sent from my iPhone by mini Elves.
Zeb
Hello
Any idea of the size of the tool cap that suites our filter?
Thanks
I prefer to use a filter removal strap.Universal and is good if you need to get in at an angle. Something like this https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/sealey-oil-filter-strap-wrench-300mm-capacity-3-8-1-2-sq-drive?gclid=CjwKCAiA24PVBRBvEiwAyBxf-cOLcqg5l2nOdRTch_T6-_r8DZ2qC I always get a new washer http://www.kawasakioriginalparts.com/road-bikes.html?blockref=99912-1648.C-08&machineid=792&year=2010&model=ZG1400CAF&country=GB
Quote from: badaboum on March 09, 2018, 06:25:21 AM
Hello
Any idea of the size of the tool cap that suites our filter?
Thanks
Not size wise, but I found to my pleasure that the tool cap I had for my ZZR600 that I owned fifteen years ago was the same size, so maybe Kawasaki use a standard size spin off filter for all there bikes ?
I have a wire screen on the top of my drain pan so that I can just drop the hot drain plug and not fish it out of the hot oil.
The oil filter wrench is 65mm with 14flutes, there are loads on amazon at less than half the price of the Kawasaki tool !!!!
"Some people put oil in the new filter before replacing it, don't know why, I never have with the GS, and I won't with the GTR either. I only ever put oil on the rubber seal not in the threads."
on the MG Stevio that I rode for 8 years the filter hung north south (rather than east west) under the bike and if you didn't fill the filter the bike took a very long time to pressurise the oil with all the obvious pitfalls. Never bothered with the Kwack, doesn't seem to be a problem. As a side note I always change the bevel oil at the same time, why not?