For a 2009 ABS model , is doing a brake fluid change straight forward? I've found the thread on the clutch fluid which doesn't look too bad :cool:
Also is it worth greasing up the head bearings, and swinging arm bearings as part of the spring tart up......and has anyone done this as well :wacko:
BTW it has 12000 miles on it
Can't comment on the bearings. May have been done by the dealer @ 25k service but doubt it.
As for the brake fluid, if you have a vacuum brake bleeder it's easy.
Otherwise it's time consuming and boring.
The ABS has no effect on how you bleed/flush the system.
Just treat it like a non-ABS system.
Make sure that the bleed hose has a good seal on the bleed nipple.
As above, it should take just a matter of minutes per calliper to bleed with a vacuum pump.
Thanks for the replies chaps :cool:
The brake and clutch fluid changes are not too bad, just don't let the master cylinder suck any air into them. As others have said, if you have or have access to a vacuum pump, all the better and easier.
I think it is worth greasing the headstock bearings; it can be done without actually removing the steering stem from the bike too. Just drop the stem about two inches (50 mm) or so while the bike is on the centerstand and you can reach under the bottom triple clamp and smear some grease on the lower bearing.
I have had the rear wheel hub arms apart on a couple of bikes and found all the seals and needle bearings in all of the links to be secure, greased and contained no water. Just my thoughts but I would not bother on a bike as new as an '09. Of course nothing wrong with taking them apart for an inspection / re- lube either if you have the time and inclination, I just do not think it is necessary this early.
Brian
Quote from: Bryn on January 15, 2014, 07:01:38 AM
For a 2009 ABS model , is doing a brake fluid change straight forward? I've found the thread on the clutch fluid which doesn't look too bad :cool:
Also is it worth greasing up the head bearings, and swinging arm bearings as part of the spring tart up......and has anyone done this as well :wacko:
BTW it has 12000 miles on it
Quote from: BDF on January 15, 2014, 10:57:49 PM
The brake and clutch fluid changes are not too bad, just don't let the master cylinder suck any air into them. As others have said, if you have or have access to a vacuum pump, all the better and easier.
I think it is worth greasing the headstock bearings; it can be done without actually removing the steering stem from the bike too. Just drop the stem about two inches (50 mm) or so while the bike is on the centerstand and you can reach under the bottom triple clamp and smear some grease on the lower bearing.
I have had the rear wheel hub arms apart on a couple of bikes and found all the seals and needle bearings in all of the links to be secure, greased and contained no water. Just my thoughts but I would not bother on a bike as new as an '09. Of course nothing wrong with taking them apart for an inspection / re- lube either if you have the time and inclination, I just do not think it is necessary this early.
Brian
Good stuff Brian... Thanks :yes:
Just been to my man cave to check my oils .... I'm getting obsessed about what oils to use, the quality, checking them etc.
Brake fluids look pristine. But clutch fluid was grim ... quite dark in colour and quite a bit of 'sediment' in the bottom of the reservoir so god knows what it looks like the line itself etc. Might explain why the clutch feels a tad vague and the bite point a little rough.
Also checked final drive fluid (f :censored: me that cap is a :censored: to unscrew!) ... not sure what to make of the fluid - very thick, like treacle, dark dirty lime colour and has an almost metallic look to it. But the level was almost where it should have been. Starting a new thread on this (with pics) in a moment.
Quote from: The Wolf on January 15, 2014, 01:24:34 PM
As above, it should take just a matter of minutes per calliper to bleed with a vacuum pump.
Steve ... I have tried that but the Dyson wont fit properly over the brake thingy bit.
Jonkawasaki you will find that a £2 coin fits the groove perfectly and is thick enough to withstand the pressure you might need to apply to loosen it. Don't over tighten it, there's no need to go daft with it.
Quote from: Rusty on February 28, 2014, 10:03:03 PM
Steve ... I have tried that but the Dyson wont fit properly over the brake thingy bit.
Although you are attempting to be witty I have just conjured up an image of you actually trying to do the brakes with a Dyson vac, I wouldn't put that past you! :mfr_lol:
Jonkawasaki, just be aware that brake fluids are hydroscopic (they attract moisture) so be very cafefull if using containers that have previously been opened, for what it costs I'd use new oil.
Quote from: davetherave on March 04, 2014, 06:29:54 PM
Jonkawasaki, just be aware that brake fluids are hydroscopic (they attract moisture) so be very cafefull if using containers that have previously been opened, for what it costs I'd use new oil.
:agree: