Hi folks,
Got a problem & wondering if anyone has had similar. Basically, the bike isn't charging the battery well enough.
Seemed to start after I replaced the 2 City Lights and a Headlamp bulb.
Alternator tests ok at 75V at about 5000 RPM.
Not been able to test the reg/rec fully, since I can't get the other plug off it!
Readings at the battery are about 12.5V when revved, when it should be 13.5V. This is with a multi-meter, not just relying on the dash Voltmeter.
It goes up a bit when I pull the fuse for the main headlights. I had to ride it 25 miles the other week, so pulled the fuse, got home, turned bike off, turned on again - battery showing 10.6V & not enough to restart the bike.
It's the same even when I disconnect the heated grips etc I got.
Battery been charged & left off the bike for 48hrs, still showing 12.6V when on the bench.
Now, something peculiar happened this afternoon when I went back to look at it again. Put the charged battery back on, meter on it, showing 12.6V. Started the bike, charge showed as 13.4V at idle, then up to 15V when revved. readings like this for a couple of mins, then it dropped again, never going over 12.5V & sometimes dropping below that when I put the fuse for the headlights back in etc.
I realise that 12.5V should be enough when running to stop the battery discharging, but it should be up at 13.5V shouldn't it? Otherwise short hops will drain the battery & I'll get stranded again!
Any ideas where to look? Could those City Lights be the cause? They're std bulbs from Halfords.
Regards & TIA's.
How old is the battery ?
If you put it on a bench charger, does it completely charge up ?
It may need replacing, but someone who knows more should be along to help out shortly......I'm afraid i don't know that much about the charging system on these.......
Yes, it charges & holds it's charge, so something on the bike is draining it.
Please don't reply with "use an Optimate" because that is not possible & that won't cure the fact that the bike isn't charging the battery properly anyway.
Don't worry I won't. I have my own charging system.
I know about charging batteries and batteries themselves, part of my job......BUT, not on bikes I'm afraid, never looked into it or had that problem, sorry....... So i will pass on this one......
im gonna take a punt on this, I dont think your lights will be the problem, the alternator is pretty hefty and can run all sorts of extras without much problem.
Problem/ faulty battery cell. This is often the cause , a faut
lty battery can appear to have and hold good charge but as soon as any load is put on it, it very quickly loses its charge. When you have a battery tested at a retailer they will actually put a load across the terminal to see how it performs.
everytime someone posts on here with these similair issues, its always the battery, cant think of the last alternator problem, was there ever one?
Thanks for the replies, it is appreciated.
My apologies to Ant, that remark about the Optimate wasn't aimed at you in particular, I phrased it rather badly! It was meant to be a general statement regarding Optimates, which I know are a good bit of kit, but I have no way of setting one up right now.
I hear what you're saying about the battery, Viper, & yes, it could be that, but, wouldn't I be seeing 13.5V when the bike was running? Would be so simple if it was showing me decent voltage while running but then losing it overnight, which is why I suspect something else. Don't really want to spend £70 on a new battery when it's a duff wire somewhere.
Regards & TIA's
Not a problem, it wasn't taken the wrong way at all...........BTW if your battery is pooped ( cell gone ) you won't see above 12.5v when its connected to the bike when its running, as the meter will only measure what the battery can accept, not what the bike wants to put in.
I know you may not want to shell out on a new battery, but its not wasted money even if thats not the problem. Don't forget, a battery should be kept at a decent charge level and never left to go flat (10.5v or below ) for any length of time.
Hope you get sorted......
Point taken!
However you are giving specific reasons, and that helps out loads!
Do you have an alarm? Alarms have been known to cause battery issues..
Just a thought.
Neil
Quote from: Ant on December 21, 2013, 08:28:02 AM
BTW if your battery is pooped ( cell gone ) you won't see above 12.5v when its connected to the bike when its running, as the meter will only measure what the battery can accept, not what the bike wants to put in.
Thanks for that, much appreciated. This is the sort of info I'm after and this forum is such a good place for it! Explains a lot too.
Get paid on Monday so reckon I'll get a new battery & see if that cures it.
As for alarms, only the factory fit as part of KIPASS. Red light flashing on the dash.
Regards, one an' all.
when the battery is connected to the bike and a voltage is measured with a meter, even if the battery has a bad cell, surely wont the reading be what the maximum voltage is on that circuit, ie its going to tell you what the alterntor is putting out. The positive and earth are connected directly to the alternator at the battery point and the meter will see that voltage.
In my opinion a dying battery cell will appear and behave normally until it has a load applied across it.
My money is still on the battery !!
AGM battery worth the extra?
Got a Dynavolt one at present, buike is an 09 & don't know if it's ever been replaced or if this is the OEM one. I've had the bike since March & it now has 52K miles on it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motobatt-Upgrade-Motorcycle-Battery-KAWASAKI-1400-1400GTR-07-14L-BS-/170915010020?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item27cb5415e4
Most people swear by them,,,,,,,,,,, thats a good price really.
I would say you've had your moneys worth out the one thats on the bike really.
Viper, you are correct if : the battery has had enough drain to warrant the rectifier to sense that the battery requires charging - 14.4 v or there a bouts. If however the battery has a cell down it will charge up to its maximum capacity very quickly and not be able to accept anymore charge, but when load is applied, die very quickly.....so the rectifier lowers the voltage and amps accordingly and can give you a false reading at your meter......around 12.5v
Very difficult to explain on here..............In my earlier post I was referring to leisure battery charging which is very different with different batteries and didn't fully apply to starting batteries, so apologies needed there....... :yes: