I have started to get a low battery warning if my 2011 GTR is not ridden for a few days so probably time to replace the battery. Any ideas on replacement as I think the original one will be very expensive.
Tyre pressure battery or main battery?
didn't know the main battery gave a warning
or transponder ??
Main Battery.
I would try giving it a good charge first, its not that old if you have a 2011 bike....
Quote from: sausage1 on October 27, 2013, 05:15:57 PM
Main Battery.
didn't know there was a message for the main battery,
With my car batterys I buy those recharge tablets , they do make a difference and buy you another 6 months . battery maybe sealed but you should be able to pop the cell lids to put the tablets in
(http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mRVVOM69dTWI_zFxMV4QCZw.jpg)
Check the battery connections, make sure they are clean and tight, recharge the battery, and see how long it lasts, eventually buy a new battery as yours is possibly knackered, battery life depends on past usage and yours could be knackered.
I was not aware that you would get a low battery warning signal when the battery is going. Nice to know that though !
Deon
The only low battery warning I can find is for the tire pressure sensors.
Your not using it enough....
Two front lights, heated grips, etc etc....
Just get yourself an optimate....and all will be sorted...
And you'll have the optimate for a long time.....so well worth the money...
Neil
Quote from: jonathan on October 29, 2013, 01:54:53 PM
The only low battery warning I can find is for the tire pressure sensors.
Yep, and for the FOB.
Deon
Find a multimeter and measure directly on your battery. Before you start the motorcycle, you should measure at least 12.6 V. When the motorcycle is started you should be able to measure 13V when the engine is idling. If you run the engine at approx. 5-6000rpm you should have 14-15V.
If you have deviations above may be due to one of several errors:
- Not properly connected at the battery terminals (easy to check)
- Error on the battery (easy to check)
- Failure of generator (requires further investigation)
- Error on the Rectifier (requires further investigation)
Sincerely,
Dr. ePower
Optimate, best investment!
+1 with Nix here ... get yourself an Optimate and you will never go wrong. :smiley: :smiley:
Must be the TPS or key fob transponder battery, dont think the bike battery gives a warning
If you check manual you will see that there is a low battery warning for main battery as well.
I have not managed to use the GTR much over the last three weeks, although it has had a short run of some fifteen miles at least weekly. When I came to start it last weekend, the battery voltage showed 11.7 and although the bike started OK, when first running at idle, a warning message came on that said "Low Battery". Within a few moments it went out and 14.5 volts showed.
When I rode the bike, the voltage sat at 14.2 for a long while, eventually rising to the more normal 14.4. On arrival back at home, when idling the voltage declined to 14.1, instead of staying at 14.4 as it usually does.
I telephoned the selling dealer for advice, they said it is fine unless voltage does not come up on starting and it is unlikely that the battery is failing. We will see... when this happened to my BMW K Series, the battery failed shortly afterward.
My bike is a 2011 model, registered 2012 with some 5,500 miles under its wheels.
Quote from: flatfour on November 15, 2013, 08:51:00 AM
I have not managed to use the GTR much over the last three weeks, although it has had a short run of some fifteen miles at least weekly. When I came to start it last weekend, the battery voltage showed 11.7 and although the bike started OK, when first running at idle, a warning message came on that said "Low Battery". Within a few moments it went out and 14.5 volts showed.
When I rode the bike, the voltage sat at 14.2 for a long while, eventually rising to the more normal 14.4. On arrival back at home, when idling the voltage declined to 14.1, instead of staying at 14.4 as it usually does.
I telephoned the selling dealer for advice, they said it is fine unless voltage does not come up on starting and it is unlikely that the battery is failing. We will see... when this happened to my BMW K Series, the battery failed shortly afterward.
My bike is a 2011 model, registered 2012 with some 5,500 miles under its wheels.
Your bike hasn't covered many miles for its age, and perhaps the battery is beginning to show signs of tiredness, even when the bike is 'parked up' the battery is having to perform some functions, BMW batteries shouldn't be any different to the one fitted to your Kawasaki, (was your BMW fitted with canbus electrics ?)
More regular usage may help the battery to recover a little, but inevitably your battery will require replacement at some stage.
An Optimate can be a useful accessory for topping up your bikes battery whilst the bike is 'resting' :yes:
OC, you are right in that I mainly use the GTR for distance work a few times a year, usually the annual trip to France or somewhere else in Europe with my daughter and then to get to the more distant shows and events in the UK. It is, though run every week for some 10 - 15 miles. For the closer shows and evening meetings I use the '70s bikes.
The GTR would usually cover around 3,500 miles per year and the two classics that I keep on the road with it about 1,000 miles each. My intention has always been to rotate use of the classics, with those that are not on the road in a given year being brought out in turn, however I think that idea will have to wait until I retire and have more time!
My BMW was the last of the K1200 RS's, so pre - Can - Bus. One of the main reasons that I chose the GTR was to avoid Can - Bus, as there seem to be lots of issues associated with the system even when new, so it probably will be more troublesome with age. I do have an Optimate 4 in the Workshop and use it in the winter if I cannot make it out on the bikes.
The GTR has a Canbus. It's used between the various computers and their sensors.
What it doesn't do is use it for stupid things like indicators, headlights and other pointless stuff.
Quote from: flatfour on November 15, 2013, 09:53:09 AM
OC, you are right in that I mainly use the GTR for distance work a few times a year, usually the annual trip to France or somewhere else in Europe with my daughter and then to get to the more distant shows and events in the UK. It is, though run every week for some 10 - 15 miles. For the closer shows and evening meetings I use the '70s bikes.
The GTR would usually cover around 3,500 miles per year and the two classics that I keep on the road with it about 1,000 miles each. My intention has always been to rotate use of the classics, with those that are not on the road in a given year being brought out in turn, however I think that idea will have to wait until I retire and have more time!
My BMW was the last of the K1200 RS's, so pre - Can - Bus. One of the main reasons that I chose the GTR was to avoid Can - Bus, as there seem to be lots of issues associated with the system even when new, so it probably will be more troublesome with age. I do have an Optimate 4 in the Workshop and use it in the winter if I cannot make it out on the bikes.
I was smiling as I read your comments about the 70s bikes and having to rotate their usage, because I used to (try) and do exactly that when I had a few, and TBH I never really did them justice, which is why I sold most of them and only have one of my own left nowadays plus another permanent resident that lives with me.
As I've got older I find it more difficult to walk past my modern bike and stick my leg over a 70s model....however there are still those days when the only thing that will fix the urge is my 70s Triple :yes:
Quote from: sausage1 on November 15, 2013, 08:46:58 AM
If you check manual you will see that there is a low battery warning for main battery as well.
I have been through the manual and cannot find anything like this. The only warnings I can find are:
"Tire Pressure Sensor Low Battery"
"Transponder Low Battery"
Here is the link to the manual. Could you please point out what page this is on, because I am getting frustrated at not being able to find it.
http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM.php?view_lang=EN&spec=US&book_no=99987-1551&lang_code=EN (http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM.php?view_lang=EN&spec=US&book_no=99987-1551&lang_code=EN)
Thanks.
I actually prefer the older bikes for local journeys etc. I find that the CB500/4 is perhaps the most involving of those in use at the moment, as it sounds wonderful when ridden hard and I really enjoy working it to get the best out of it, without "overworking" it.
The CB 750 has much more power and is physically bigger, and can be ridden at low speeds without me wanting to continually open it up! I don't think that it sounds so nice as the 500 though, but it is better for higher mileages.
In general, I use the 500 for journeys of up to 100 miles, the 750 for up to 150 miles and the GTR for bigger distances or where I want the heated grips and luggage capacity.
This seems to work well, but other bikes that should be used are neglected at times.
Jonathan, page 37 and 38 of UK manual.
Quote from: flatfour on November 15, 2013, 06:49:22 PM
I actually prefer the older bikes for local journeys etc. I find that the CB500/4 is perhaps the most involving of those in use at the moment, as it sounds wonderful when ridden hard and I really enjoy working it to get the best out of it, without "overworking" it.
The CB 750 has much more power and is physically bigger, and can be ridden at low speeds without me wanting to continually open it up! I don't think that it sounds so nice as the 500 though, but it is better for higher mileages.
In general, I use the 500 for journeys of up to 100 miles, the 750 for up to 150 miles and the GTR for bigger distances or where I want the heated grips and luggage capacity.
This seems to work well, but other bikes that should be used are neglected at times.
:agree: and the 500/4 always had a very distinctive and evocative sound...........for a four stroke that is :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:..... only kidding :clap:
Quote from: sausage1 on November 15, 2013, 10:05:02 PM
Jonathan, page 37 and 38 of UK manual.
Hmmm, I don't see anything in my 08 manual on a message for a low main battery..
Quote from: virginiajim on November 28, 2013, 06:26:24 PM
Hmmm, I don't see anything in my 08 manual on a message for a low main battery..
There is in the 2010 on manual Jim. Cant show you a picture as the site won't accept my pics at the moment.... :help:
Quote from: O.C. on October 28, 2013, 06:53:41 AM
Check the battery connections, make sure they are clean and tight, recharge the battery, and see how long it lasts, eventually buy a new battery as yours is possibly knackered, battery life depends on past usage and yours could be knackered.
Quoto 100% :yes:
MG valerio. :batman:
Quote from: sausage1 on November 15, 2013, 10:05:02 PM
Jonathan, page 37 and 38 of UK manual.
ive got a 2010 bike and have read pages 37 and 38 and at no point does it say there is a battery warning/low warning message. The paragraph you indicate talks about the battery displaying its voltage message , the one that we are familiar with . No one else on here has ever your phantom message , so I think its time to concede that you must have been getting confused with a low transpoder warning or tps warning.
the manual link that Jonathon posted for the pre 10 manual has the exact same wording as my post 10 manual, just on page 32 instead of 37.
They do have a low main battery warning.... Mine is a 2010...
Because work is only 2.5 miles, it's not enough to keep the battery topped up.
The bike is a 2010 with 52k on the clock.
Next time I get a warning, I'll get a picture....
Neil
Yep, my 2010 also has this main battery warning. After 3 years and 46,000 miles, I am not surprised though.
Battery voltage was showing 11.7V after only a weekend's 'rest', the bike would start OK but the battery warning comes up for few seconds after starting - just as flatfour describes above.
I went with one of these new fangled Lithium Ion LiPo14A batteries (example - http://furoreproducts.co.uk/lithium-ion-batteries/116-lipo14a-replaces-ytx14-bs-lithium-ion-motorcycle-battery.html (http://furoreproducts.co.uk/lithium-ion-batteries/116-lipo14a-replaces-ytx14-bs-lithium-ion-motorcycle-battery.html). The weight saving is not needed on the oil tanker like GTR, but the increased service life, slightly higher base voltage and lower current loss appeal. Plus, I would like one of these LiIon batteries on the race bike, so this is product testing.
Had the new battery in for 3 weeks now, works perfectly, and it genuinely weighs nothing. Very impressive piece of kit.
Martin.
Quote from: viper on November 30, 2013, 09:15:19 PM
ive got a 2010 bike and have read pages 37 and 38 and at no point does it say there is a battery warning/low warning message. The paragraph you indicate talks about the battery displaying its voltage message , the one that we are familiar with . No one else on here has ever your phantom message , so I think its time to concede that you must have been getting confused with a low transpoder warning or tps warning.
the manual link that Jonathon posted for the pre 10 manual has the exact same wording as my post 10 manual, just on page 32 instead of 37.
My bike is a 2012 model. Page 38, column one, half way down.
When the battery low, the battery warning message "LOW BATTERY" and the battery warning symbol are displayed alternately in the multi-function meter. If the warning message and warning symbol are dispalyed, charge the battery
Grammar and punctuation are as the handbook :wink:
Quote from: doebag on December 01, 2013, 10:14:42 AM
My bike is a 2012 model. Page 38, column one, half way down.
When the battery low, the battery warning message "LOW BATTERY" and the battery warning symbol are displayed alternately in the multi-function meter. If the warning message and warning symbol are dispalyed, charge the battery
Grammar and punctuation are as the handbook :wink:
okies, I must be wrong then, my bike is a 2010 model and my handbook defo does not say anything about a low battery warning, the wording is as the pre 2010 manuals, so I must have the older manual with my bike.
nice to know its there tho and sorry for confusing the matter some what
I've spent days looking through my manual and I couldn't find anything either, I've never seen the message to date, but its reassuring that something like that should be on the bike.
Hope this helps Badger Wolf, if it uploads ok
Ant, that's great, many thanks. I definitely don't recall seeing that in the handbook.
Don't know why, as my book says 'June 2010 (2)' on the foreword page at the front
Maybe the printing/publication of handbooks changes from model to model, hence the irregularity :wink:
Quote from: O.C. on December 02, 2013, 07:37:12 AM
Maybe the printing/publication of handbooks changes from model to model, hence the irregularity :wink:
It's also possible that 'June 2010(1) was issued, then someone realised the info was missing, amd reprinted with ammendment as June 2010(2)
I have just ordered a replacement battery for my GTR (first registered 2012) from the dealer. They have agreed to supply at cost and fit free of charge, as it is not yet two years old. I charged the battery using the Optimate 4 on Sunday morning, two hours later I decided to take the bike out as the roads had dried and voltage on start - up was down to11.7. This soon returned to the normal 14.4 whilst running, however in the interim the low battery warning flashed a few times.
This morning, I switched the ignition on to check voltage after yesterday's 35 mile run, it was down to 11.8 volts.
The bike lives in a garage, under a motorcycle cover as well. As explained previously however, it is not used too regularly and has covered only 5,500 miles to date.
My bike is a post 2010 facelift model. My manual was printed in 2009, a few pages in there is a year date. So im guessing the low battery things is part of the big revamp Kawasaki did in 2010 but older manulas were still going out, maybe with 2011/2012 machines they had the updated manual.
The manual could have been printed to build up stocks for the new model release. Do the diagrams and pictures match your model, or are they of the earlier model. Off the top of my head, you should be able to tell from shape of side fairing/air vents and the position of the glove box [tank top or fairing ]
Having spent 15 years working for the importer of a brand of German cars, I can confirm that reference information regarding various models is frequently updated and sometimes information can be lost/misinterpreted in translation.
Updates of manuals is an ongoing process, and sometimes the 'wrong' manual can be found in the 'wrong' vehicle, I suspect the same can occur with bikes :yes:
Quote from: doebag on December 02, 2013, 09:10:14 PM
The manual could have been printed to build up stocks for the new model release. Do the diagrams and pictures match your model, or are they of the earlier model. Off the top of my head, you should be able to tell from shape of side fairing/air vents and the position of the glove box [tank top or fairing ]
the manual is for the 2010 model, fairing pics and tank glove box pics are all correct. Its not a manual for the 2009 bike as it mentions all the new features . probably the first print run for the 2010 bikes and omitted the battery message.
Hi
Started the trike tonight for the first time in about 6 weeks and went for a spin, it turned over for about 2 seconds before it started and just as it did start the display said "Low Battery", followed by "9.0V", then a picture of a car type battery, oblong box with a terminal on top at each end, then as it had started the display went to "14.1" and all was well.
It turned over ok, but was a bit sluggish compared to normal.
I have ordered an Oxford Oximiser Battery Charger / maintenance unit, this will hopefully extend the battery life and avoid any issues whilst its hibernating.
Richard
Richard, use of a maintenance charger might help, but in my experience when these modern sealed for life batteries fail, it is immediate and, if you think that the battery might be past its best, I personally would replace it straight away.
So far, I have suffered failures with little or no warning on my car and the Ducati that I owned, as well as the BMW, all with "sealed for life" batteries. That is why I will change the battery on the GTR as soon as it arrives at the dealers. I don't want to be stuck on a winter's day, away from home. The older bikes that I own at least have a kickstart.
Incidentally, whilst I have no doubt that regular use helps, my car covers around 30,000 miles per year and the battery failed one winter's morning after driving from Norwich to Kent. It was only parked for a couple of hours and had no life at all when I returned to it, however it managed the cold start that day without any problems and no warning lights came up on the journey of some 130 miles!
Hi
In my experience the worse thing you can do with a battery is allow it to go flat, and it will protect it from that so worth the £20.00 it cost
I looked at my 2012's manual , and yup , its there too. LOW BATTERY and the accompanying battery symbol.
learned something new here !
.
The battery on the GTR was replaced at the dealer on Tuesday and I checked the voltage today, after a very cold few days during which the bike has stood in the garage. It showed 12.2 volts, as against the 11.5 - 11.7 that the original would indicate only a few hours after charging (bike first registered January 2012).
Hopefully I can now look forward to at least another two years of reliability!
I'm really not very good at being tactful.....
Your bikes are alive from the very moment you connect a battery too it.... Immobilizer light flashes ever 5 seconds or so..... It's drawing current from the battery.... Leave it for weeks and it will drain.....and go dead.....
Use it for short runs in winter, headlights, heated grips, - the cold.... Will kill the power in the battery, not necessarily the battery.
Page 232-234 of the manual gives discharge rates from 100% to 0% while standing... It also says on page 233 that in the right (or wrong) conditions, a battery can discharge in a matter of days... But they are talking about 100% to 0%
Sub 10v on the display and I think you are going to have trouble starting the GTR, that's about 75% of the power of the battery. If everything was linear (which it's not), worst case, you could have problems starting your beast in days, not weeks....
Over 100,000 miles on three different GTRs from 2008 and only minor problems to do with repetitive short runs (3-4 mile trips), I think I have the experience to comment.....
We are all our own worst enemies.... We are human!
'Steps down from soap box'.....
Neil
Quote from: SirToU on December 15, 2013, 10:15:45 AM
Your bikes are alive from the very moment you connect a battery too it.... Immobilizer light flashes ever 5 seconds or so..... It's drawing current from the battery.... Leave it for weeks and it will drain.....and go dead.....
Immobilizer light shuts off completely after 24 hours.
I've actually been pretty lucky with that. I don't use a tender and it can sit for a month at a time without being ridden :cry: but it still starts up. These bikes have a nasty habit of the connections getting loose and they don't have to get that loose to cause issues with charging and the like.
When new I let the bike stand for 4 months each for the 1st two winters.
No battery tender and all I did was start the bike once every 2 weeks or so and let it idle for a few minutes.
Now I plug the battery tender in but still have the OEM battery after 6.25 years.