Advise time please you guru's of everything GTR - what rear pegs can I buy to replace the cast alloy ones - Mrs Pete stipulates they MUST have a rubber top.
Over to the floor..... :cheesy:
ER6(F) a I think its (F) but maybe (N), also I think ZZR, but all Kawasaki gen parts will be pricey, so check fleabay for breakers parts :yes:
Its also possible to buy lowering kit including rubber top pegs which come from an FJR :clap:
Many thanks OC - can find a pair of ER6N's from the states but a bit pricey and there is 1 FJR peg. Will add to my saved searches and see what turns up on flea bay over the next few weeks....
:sad:
I can't remember which way round it is ER6 N (naked) or ER6 F (Faired) but one has rubber pegs and the other doesn't
I've got FJR 1300 rear pegs on mine. Fit very well
Mine has GTR1000 pegs. Not pretty but SWMBO likes them.
Quote from: Boomer on September 25, 2013, 01:42:52 PM
Not pretty but SWMBO likes them.
If so all must be good...........................its a brave man who upsets the "Mama"
You want Kawasaki part (http://www.kawasakioriginalparts.com/kawasaki_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=F2160&block_02=99912-1582&block_03=MC&year01=2009&ca=GB) numbers
34028B Original Kawasaki Parts STEP,RR,RH Kawasaki Part Number: 340280315
34028C Original Kawasaki Parts STEP,RR,LH Kawasaki Part Number: 340280314
34028D (two of) Original Kawasaki Parts STEP,FR,RUBBER Kawasaki Part Number: 340281430
92009 (4 of) Original Kawasaki Parts SCREW Kawasaki Part Number: 920091404
Bit pricey tho at £118.64
Just swap your other bits over. They are a straight fit.
The GTR pegs have 1 detent spring and ball per side, the ER6 has 2
you only need 1
Pretty FJR pegs :laugh:
(http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r403/GSAnut/IMG_0277_zps67a57f9f.jpg) (http://s354.photobucket.com/user/GSAnut/media/IMG_0277_zps67a57f9f.jpg.html)
(http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r403/GSAnut/IMG_0276_zps469a86f9.jpg) (http://s354.photobucket.com/user/GSAnut/media/IMG_0276_zps469a86f9.jpg.html)
Thanks Guys,
I will hang out for a 2nd hand pair of FJR or ER6N pegs on fleabay.... certainly don't want to pay full Kawasaki prices :nono:
Quote from: PCPeteUK on September 25, 2013, 05:18:42 PM
Thanks Guys,
I will hang out for a 2nd hand pair of FJR or ER6N pegs on fleabay.... certainly don't want to pay full Kawasaki prices :nono:
Try here Pete, just type you requirement into the search box and click :yes:
http://www.dkmotorcycles.com/used-spares/
Quote from: Bryn on September 24, 2013, 07:32:56 PM
I've got FJR 1300 rear pegs on mine. Fit very well
Hi Mate just fitted the FJR replacements but I can't stop them bending lower under pressure (ie when pillion gets on) any suggestions?
Pictures here...
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/li4qxicrcrfsx0g/vHsAwA6Rd7
....I can't see any reason for them not working :wacko:
Isn't there supposed to be a plate spacer behind them ?
Quote from: O.C. on October 18, 2013, 10:27:26 AM
Isn't there supposed to be a plate spacer behind them ?
I've used the original plus the one that came with the FJR peg to ensure a tight fit. So the peg is currently sandwiched between the two plates.
Both pegs look the same but when I put back the originals all is fine again !?! Baffled I is....
Pete I'm guessing that the original is slightly larger than your replacement items, as I can't otherwise see why it doesnt fit.
From the pictures it appears that the replacement peg is not fitting snugly against the back of the bracket...is there a space between the back of the peg and the bracket on the bikes frame when the peg is in the down position ? if so that's why the replacement pegs are drooping/straining under load, in which case you may need either a different replacement peg of some kind of spacer behind the peg mounting
On mine on the back plate of the lowering brackets there's a hole, and I dropped a dome head stainless bolt in the hole, then as the footpeg lowers it rests on the head, stopping it drooping :yes:
If you've not got a hole, just get hold of a bit of ally plate the right thickness, and use double sided sponge tape to fasten it to the back panel, should be thick enough to take up the slack to stop it going past horizontal :wink:
Hi Bryn,
no lowering brackets on mine mate - just the standard U shaped fitting - may have to look at drilling a locator hole and pinning them (not what I wanted to do)
You got enough space to drop a plate behind ? ( on the flat bit not the sides )
Quote from: Bryn on October 18, 2013, 12:28:43 PM
You got enough space to drop a plate behind ?
...that's a thought - will investigate and reply. Thanks Bryn.
Quote from: PCPeteUK on October 18, 2013, 12:30:54 PM
...that's a thought - will investigate and reply. Thanks Bryn.
Just looked at mine , and without the lowerers fitted there should be a flat back to the mounting point, but looking at your pics it looks like you are mounting the peg to pannier frame bits?
I did the same thing on other bikes, when I changed the pegs, just taped a strip of ally or similar to the back face so that the peg hits it and stops it going any further
Quote from: Bryn on October 18, 2013, 12:35:13 PM
Just looked at mine , and without the lowerers fitted there should be a flat back to the mounting point, but looking at your pics it looks like you are mounting the peg to pannier frame bits?
I did the same thing on other bikes, when I changed the pegs, just taped a strip of ally or similar to the back face so that the peg hits it and stops it going any further
Just been out to the garage - you were correct Bryn - the hole in the standard peg is 6mm, the FJR is 8mm thus 2mm slack in the bolt.
I have fabricated a bit of mild steel sheet that I will paint with black hammerite to match - should be good to go then :) see below...
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ybvzbtg0073gu8h/2DPIS_db7W
Ermmmm. isn't that what I said ?
Glad its sorted anyway :smiley:
Quote from: O.C. on October 18, 2013, 02:27:18 PM
Ermmmm. isn't that what I said ?
Glad its sorted anyway :smiley:
Sorry O.C. I thought you were referring to the side plate :)
Quote from: PCPeteUK on October 18, 2013, 12:53:32 PM
Just been out to the garage - you were correct Bryn - the hole in the standard peg is 6mm, the FJR is 8mm thus 2mm slack in the bolt.
I have fabricated a bit of mild steel sheet that I will paint with black hammerite to match - should be good to go then :) see below...
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ybvzbtg0073gu8h/2DPIS_db7W
That'll do it :cool: