Decided to do some maintainance on the bike yesterday and I could feel something was not right with the wheels. Pulled bike over, put it on centre stand.
Firstly, tried put bike in neutral and tried to turn rear wheel. Found out that rear wheel touches hugger. Then shone a light at the seal to see if I could spot anything in there. Looked ok - lots of grime. Then I moved the wheel left to right and found there to be a significant amount of play.
Got home and I stripped the rear wheel down. This is what I found after I took the Black seal off. Note that the Orange seal of the bearing was off, with the bearing full of dirt and grime
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/1400%20GTR%20Green/2013-09-23214919.jpg)
Fortunately I had some spare bearings lying about (as you do) and replaced them quickly.
I also removed the hugger and put on the one from my previous GTR
Then I decided, :censored: it and greased the rear splines as well
Took five hours to do in all. Why? Cause I did it with some TLC, something that your dealer won't do!
Please check your bearings. It seems the OEM ones supplied by Kawasaki can be shot after 20k, and don't rely on your dealer checking them for play. Replace them with aftermarket bearings.
Interesting. My rear bearings have 54k on them and are still fine.
Have had the replacements & seals since 20k.
Have replaced front wheel bearings twice since new.
I guess i don't hammer the rear bearings like you.
Strange since I weigh 25 stone and thrash the :shit: out of it.
I've not had a chance to hammer the bike yet :mfr_lol:
This is with Rusty hammering it. Him and Steve must have done some serious riding when they went to Scotland!
On my previous GTR the front ones went as well. However, the rear were fine on that.
It's only fair wear and tear, the wheels still turn round don't they? :popcorn:
:mfr_lol:
What happens when they stop turning around at speed? :popcorn:
Another thing to consider here is who changes your tyres? Not all tyre fitters are mechanically minded so can over tighten the spindle nuts thus putting stress on the bearings.
If you're not sure take the wheels in and refit them yourselves so you know how they've been refitted :)
That ham fisted bugger Rusty :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on September 24, 2013, 01:19:14 PM
:mfr_lol:
What happens when they stop turning around at speed? :popcorn:
You have to make a warranty claim for defective casing from your tyre supplier :mfr_lol:
Took it to work today. Feels like a new bike!
I was travelling at speed on the M3 the other day and suddenly smelled a strong burning smell and a knocking noise form the rear wheel. Decided it was sensible to slow down and pull over. Nothing obviouse but at low speed there was a slight juddering from the rear wheel. Limped home to CBS Whitton who said that the rear wheel bearings had gone and got them replaced under warranty as the bike is 17 months old and only done 14k miles. Nothing to pay so it was a good day! :clap:
Changing the bearings isn't a hard DIY. I changed mine just from forum advice.
What you need if you haven't got the official equipment:
1. Green wheelie bin
2. Screwdriver with a metal top for bashing
3. Big metal mallet hammer
4. Socket that is just smaller than the outer race. Just smaller as you don't want the socket getting stuck in the recess
The Green bin is perfect balancing the wheel on. I say Green because you wouldn't want a smelly Black bin (assuming you recycle off course. Not sure that is the case in Bradford)
Move the spacer out of the way which will give just enough for the screwdriver to catch the inner race. A good whack and move to the opposite end. Then do the next quarter and opposite. Repeat until out. Same for the other side.
Clean out the recess and grease before offering new bearing. Maybe put a heat gun on recess to expand the surrounding area (as well as keeping the bearing in the freezer for a few days). Position the bearing in place, put on socket, and hammer socket gently so the bearing sits in symetrically in the recess. The socket should only be touching the outer race. Don't go flush to the inner recess yet.
Next put in the spacer. Don't forget this otherwise you'll be cursing yourself.
Finally do the same for the bearing at the other side. Keep on going until the spacer is has about a mm left between the two bearings (i.e get one bearing almost in place, do the same with the other one, and then carry alternatively until the gap between the bearing and spacer is minimal). I'm not sure if the spacer is supposed to touch the inner race so I play it safe
The bearing for the front wheel and rear wheel are different sizes so you need different sized sockets
When the wheel is on the bin, don't be temped to lean on the brake discs. They'll probably warp.
Alternatively, just pay the dealer.
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on September 26, 2013, 01:00:41 AM
Changing the bearings isn't a hard DIY. I changed mine just from forum advice.
What you need if you haven't got the official equipment:
1. Green wheelie bin
2. Screwdriver with a metal top for bashing
3. Big metal mallet hammer
4. Socket that is just smaller than the outer race. Just smaller as you don't want the socket getting stuck in the recess
The Green bin is perfect balancing the wheel on. I say Green because you wouldn't want a smelly Black bin (assuming you recycle off course. Not sure that is the case in Bradford)
Move the spacer out of the way which will give just enough for the screwdriver to catch the inner race. A good whack and move to the opposite end. Then do the next quarter and opposite. Repeat until out. Same for the other side.
Clean out the recess and grease before offering new bearing. Maybe put a heat gun on recess to expand the surrounding area (as well as keeping the bearing in the freezer for a few days). Position the bearing in place, put on socket, and hammer socket gently so the bearing sits in symetrically in the recess. The socket should only be touching the outer race. Don't go flush to the inner recess yet.
Next put in the spacer. Don't forget this otherwise you'll be cursing yourself.
Finally do the same for the bearing at the other side. Keep on going until the spacer is has about a mm left between the two bearings (i.e get one bearing almost in place, do the same with the other one, and then carry alternatively until the gap between the bearing and spacer is minimal). I'm not sure if the spacer is supposed to touch the inner race so I play it safe
The bearing for the front wheel and rear wheel are different sizes so you need different sized sockets
When the wheel is on the bin, don't be temped to lean on the brake discs. They'll probably warp.
Alternatively, just pay the dealer.
With screwdriver and wheelie bin abuse of such magnitude Asif........................you could be a pro mechanic :mfr_lol:
Good descriptive narrative ...................plus you're back on the road again :clap:
I wrote that late last night. Reading it back, I should have said view the bearing as a clock face. Hit it at 12 o'clock, followed by 6, and the 3 o'clock followed by 9 and repeat until the bugger is out
Don't want to be a pro mechanic
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on September 26, 2013, 03:02:23 PM
I wrote that late last night. Reading it back, I should have said view the bearing as a clock face. Hit it at 12 o'clock, followed by 6, and the 3 o'clock followed by 9 and repeat until the bugger is out
Don't want to be a pro mechanic
Nop..............as long as you can draw air into your lungs through clenched teeth when a punter asks "how much".....................You're a natural :mfr_lol: