Guys, my bike is been with my dealer (non kawasaki) now for 7 weeks whilst he has been trying to clear the cam shaft sensor fault. And had a sparky check all wiring yesterday who was unable to find a fault.
They have come to the conclusion that the ECU is at fault but doesn't know how to test it.
He basically can't clear the fault.
Has anyone any knowledge if the ECU can be given to kawasaki and let them test it off the bike.
Unfortunately I haven't got a kawasaki dealer near me so them having the bike isn't an option.
My bloke has generic software sold to kawasaki privateers and is able to talk to the ECU but can't clear the fault.
Or, has anyone got a ECU knocking about I could borrow just to test
You will need to go to a K dealer.
The ECU is not interchangeable as it is coded to the KiPass module.
My bloke has the software to recode , just need an ECU
Is this what you need ? if so look here.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-GTR-1000-ZG-1000-CDI-ECU-Unit-/231032194860
its this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAWASAKI-GTR-1400-2008-ECU-CDI-UNIT-/141031804780?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20d6268f6c
If I get it, Im just hoping my mechanics computer can hook it up with the rest of the bike
- was the ECU working before ?
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I can understand how difficult this is for you with your bike out of action for so long, but I think you are being given some duff information unfortunately.
ECUs don't go wrong, they are solid state devices protected by diodes from power surges and ham-fisted wiring bodges. Unless you have drowned it, or drilled through it, there will be nothing wrong with the ECU.
Personally, I think it highly likely that there is a fault in the wiring somewhere between the CS sensor and the ECU. You need to very, very thoroughly check the wiring all the way from the CS sensor, looking for worn insulation, cracks in the wire, rusty/corroded/broken pins at the ECU. A multimeter would be valuable checking the connectivity between the CS sensor plug and the correct pin of the ECU.
If you honestly trust that your sparky has done that check thoroughly, I would bite the bullet and take it to a Kawasaki dealer to get it plugged into the proper diagnostics kit. Even if that means hiring a van to get it there.
If the fault code database on your mechanics diagnostics is not correct, then it could be reading a fault code and translating it into the wrong message/faulty-part. Easily done, imagine how many error codes need to be logged for every manufacturer/vehicle on a generic diagnostics machine.
I am afraid there is no easy route to a fix on this one. If the ECU believes (rightly or wrongly) that the CS sensor is faulty, it will never fire the injectors as it does not know where in the firing cycle the engine is.
If a genuinely faulty CS sensor was replaced by a good one, the bike should still start even if the 'old' fault code had not been cleared.
Martin.
agree
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Hi Trousersnake, this fault must be driving you nuts and not only is it racking up the costs, its also losing you all the good weather that we've had this summer. I think it might be worth you taking a step back on this one and take it to a dealer. I know its hard after all the work thats been put in, but I think you'll be throwing good money after bad if you buy the ecu, especially if it turns out that its not that at fault. It might be worth your while joining a breakdown recovery service if you're not in one already...... Now if you were to take the bike a mile or so down the road, and suddenly find it won't start :innocent: you could call them out and get it taken to a dealer..... who knows, you might be up and running again for a few hundred quid, and I'm sure the garage where it is now would love to see the back of it too! If they do find that its the ecu at fault, then that would be the time to start looking for a second hand one mate.
Trousersnake, have you got a copy of the workshop manual, if so, have you shown it to the auto spark? Page 662 shows you how to test the sensors and there is a drawing on page 665. I don't think you would need the test adapter, I think you could probably get into the back of the ecu with fine probes. If you're getting the correct voltages then there might well be a problem with the ecu program as you say. Be aware though ........ these fault codes should be treated as help guides only - they are not the be all and end all. We use fault codes in our kit in work, and we've all been led down the garden path at some point where the fault code recorded has bugger all to do with the actual fault found in the end, and unfortunately this may be the case with your fault. Thats why it might be worth taking the dealer option now.
Does the garage test gear allow you to see the sensors operating and if so, which one is faulty?
Thinking outside the box..... have you checked the camshaft is turning?
Yep, repaired the puncture on my trailer and I'm going to go and pick it up. It has been fitted with two new cam shaft sensors and its the front one. He took the back one out and and swapped it with the front but it still registered a fault.
He will have a bill because he has had a go and replaced the sensors so its going to cost.
Then I'll have to get it over to Kawasaki s and get charged again
Try another ecu just take it out of equation. Swop with one of us guys on forum. Bolts holding tool kit in are all pain to remove.
if its just the front one then the next step is to check to see if the signal is getting back to the ecu.
have you made it to the dealers yet and if so have they found the problem?
Quote from: Boomer on August 22, 2013, 12:37:28 PM
You will need to go to a K dealer.
The ECU is not interchangeable as it is coded to the KiPass module.
That's the "other" ECU :smiley: http://youtu.be/bVK_iLVyOds (http://youtu.be/bVK_iLVyOds)
A new ECU has been priced at 730. The bike is going to be taken over to Portman kawasaki in Guildford for it to be fitted and coded. I'll let you know what happens. 8 weeks now without it.
Well, it went to Kawasaki in Aldershot. They found that the battery had gone and whilst the wires were disconnected to tilt the engine to do the sensors which needed replacing, the ECU and key fob had come unpaired. And thats why it wouldn't start.
Kawasaki found two other sensors that were showing historic faults so they are being replaced as well.
So 12 weeks without the bike. Missed all the good weather, but cant wait to get back on it for my commuting to work.
4 sensors and a new battery estimated at £400
4 sensors and a new battery estimated at £400
Now that sounds better................................Enjoy your ride once you get it back :clap:
Shame its taken so long to diagnose and fix.
Enjoy the bike now she's up and running again :biker3:
...and you lot have had the audacity to question the K1600.... :whistling:
:mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:
Quote from: Winston Smith on September 20, 2013, 08:00:40 AM
...and you lot have had the audacity to question the K1600.... :whistling:
:mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:
- me thinks this fella's issues were more self induced rather than anything to do with the GTR itself.
- as for your unmentionable ride , the adage "nothing good to say , say nothing" applies.
- har har.
:banana:
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Quote from: pistole on September 20, 2013, 08:25:56 AM
- me thinks this fella's issues were more self induced rather than anything to do with the GTR itself.
- as for your unmentionable ride , the adage "nothing good to say , say nothing" applies.
- har har.
:banana:
.
As you know, I am incapable of that...never let feelings get in the way of a piss-take :clap:
Hi TS - whereabouts is Kawasaki Aldershot as Portman Kawasaki Guildford charge £53 per hour - I think you had a reasonable result at £400!!
hello, it only went in there as a favour, he knows my mechanic. And they charge the same per hour. Used to be called Pegesus Kawasaki