Finally had time to do some maintenance work on bike so decided to do brakes, and a good thing too as I'd have been trying to stop with metal scraping against metal.
Disclaimer: these are pics of what I did today. If you want your pads changing, I suggest you refer to a qualified mechanic.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/10.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/12.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/14.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/16.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/181.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/182.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/183.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/19.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/20.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/21.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/22.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/24.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/26.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/29.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/30.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/32.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/34.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/36.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/38.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/40.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/42.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/44.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/46.jpg)
See first pic for fitting torque. Now to do the other caliper!
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/48.jpg)
NB, excellent set of photographs and instructions. I haven't changed my pads yet but I did take them all out a few weeks just to check their condition. They were fine by the way.
It's an easy enough job to do, you just need a bit of patience and a willingness to get your hands dirty.
Yup, there is an easy way to inspect/replace the pads without removing the caliper. Just remove the two 5mm bolts that hold the spring and you can pull out the pads and inspect. If you want to then put in new pads, you still need to push the pistons back with some tool. And of course, whenever working on the brakes remember to pump the brake lever.
Well done NB ... that is a very comprehensive set of pics and instructions ... good on you. I have to say though at first I couldn't quite make out whether it was a bike wheel or a tractor wheel from an abandoned farmyard ...... I know your not a keen bike cleaner but YIKES !!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ..... that's a dirty bike !!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D
PS .... those new pads will stop you like an unlit skip .... be careful with them !! :)
Lol, was thinking myself how filthy the bike was. But thought functional items were more important than cosmetic ;D
There's two front calipers to do. Really doesn't take more than 20 mins each.
On a side note, this is the first time I've done the pads. Before this its been done by various dealers. I noticed one of the 6mm Hex bolts was almost circular. The hex bit would not grip. I had to use a hammer and create a new grip. I've now ordered a new bolt, but this is what pisses me off about dealers in that they will mess something up, or know something minor needs replacing, but not do it. That's why it's best to do your own bike maintenance.
I think you appreciate more about how the bike functions doing your own basic maintenance. We all know I'm a joke when it comes to mechanics, but I'll have a go. Its a daunting bike to work on I think cause its so big compared with some of the naked sport/tourers I've had, but in reality it aint that much different fundamentally.
NB, wot do you use to clean your bike, i need to get some quick as mines lookin a bit dirty !
Quote from: lamin on March 27, 2011, 09:40:58 PM
NB, wot do you use to clean your bike, i need to get some quick as mines lookin a bit dirty !
Clean his bike, when does he clean his bike ;D
Only jokin!!
Very helpful pics...cheers...i have a squealing front brake at the moment, so need to check it out...suspect the pad pins just need some copper slip, but want to take them out to make sure nothing further is wrong with them ;D
I didn't put any copper on mine but if they start squealing I will do
A picture is worth a thousand words......its always helpful to see nice real life pictures
Just a quick question...i've had a look a removing the calipers before....doesn't seem much clearance between the wheel rim and the disc, do they slip off easily or do they need jiggling out?
Once the caliper retaining bolts are out you still need to apply some force to move the caliper away from the housing. Carry on moving all the way until the caliper touches the wheel rim, and then slight twist and they are out. They do slip on/off easily.
Quote from: lamin on March 27, 2011, 09:40:58 PM
NB, wot do you use to clean your bike, i need to get some quick as mines lookin a bit dirty !
Lol.
Let me answer that with a question: Imagine your bike was a girlfriend. What would you rather do? ;D
My front pads were squealing like a strangled ferrett. At least how I imagine how a strangled ferret would squeal. Copperslip on the back of the pads where the piston sits, and on the retaining pins cured it instantly. A slight smear on the top and lower edges of the pads also helps. I SAID A SLIGHT SMEAR.
Cheers
One thing to watch with copperslip is that it doesn't get anywhere near the brake piston "O" ring seals, they will speed up perishing of the rubber apparentlr ;D
The rear breaks have some sort of anti squeal technology built in. So far I'm using the OEM Kawasaki pads on the front and they haven't required any copper grease yet
I spoke too soon about copper grease. I've put some on the rear of the pads, the two ends of the spring that contact the housing and on the pin. This is both for the front and rear.
Nice how too NB.
Thats exactly the same toothbrush I used to use for my caliper cleaning.
Time for a new one tho! Our lass is going to be pissed off again!! :o
Quote from: Nygie on April 13, 2011, 07:29:13 AM
Nice how too NB.
Thats exactly the same toothbrush I used to use for my caliper cleaning.
Time for a new one tho! Our lass is going to be pissed off again!! :o
I couldn't find the one I used for the front brakes so I grabbed another for the rear. The missus will have a fit if she finds out. Bought myself one of the electric ones instead and then thought, why not get a cheap electrical one for the bike? Would come in use for agitating any dirt in hard to reach places.
Quote from: Norman Bates on April 13, 2011, 09:51:59 AM
Quote from: Nygie on April 13, 2011, 07:29:13 AM
Nice how too NB.
Thats exactly the same toothbrush I used to use for my caliper cleaning.
Time for a new one tho! Our lass is going to be pissed off again!! :o
I couldn't find the one I used for the front brakes so I grabbed another for the rear. The missus will have a fit if she finds out. Bought myself one of the electric ones instead and then thought, why not get a cheap electrical one for the bike? Would come in use for agitating any dirt in hard to reach places.
don't you have to be a bit careful in and around the seals to make sure you don't apply too much pressure ???
I was thinking more of using an electric toothbrish for the wheels!
Great Pics and advice. I love changing my brakes as I hate paying the dealer £50+ in labour charges!
Quote from: Norman Bates on March 27, 2011, 02:16:14 AM
Finally had time to do some maintenance work on bike so decided to do brakes, and a good thing too as I'd have been trying to stop with metal scraping against metal.
Disclaimer: these are pics of what I did today. If you want your pads changing, I suggest you refer to a qualified mechanic.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/10.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/12.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/14.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/16.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/181.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/182.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/183.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/19.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/20.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/21.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/22.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/24.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/26.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/29.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/30.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/32.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/34.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/36.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/38.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/40.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/42.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/44.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/46.jpg)
See first pic for fitting torque. Now to do the other caliper!
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/48.jpg)
Remember to put some copper grease on the rear of the pads and on the spring
And - I can't stress how important this is - if you think the bolts need replacing because they are rounding off, get them replaced. Because one day you'll come to replace the pads and the hex key will just turn.
Don't expect dealer to replace
Cheers for the pics, much appreciated.
Hi
When changing your pads it is advisiable to remove master cyclinder cap as you push the pistons back slowly the fluid returns to the cyclinder,allways put a rag round the cylinder and protect your paint work. Your new pads will feel soft for the 1st few miles...H
Can I make a couple of suggestions.
1) before! Pushing the pistons home, make sure you brush the dirt off the pistons, otherwise you are effectively forcing the dirt, inside/against the seals.
2) IMO.. Not much point putting copper slip on the top and bottom - doesn't touch anything and just collects dirt... Better off putting it on the sides where the pads are guided by the caliper. Metal to metal connection.
Question - just interested in how old your bike is and number of miles?
Thanks
Neil
These are good photos and it is good to do your own jobs on the bike but my mechanical knowledge is very limited....... So I will be posting a series of equally clear photos..... Of me..... Putting petrol in...!
Nice one.
My bike?
08 model with 42k on clock
Thanks, just won't to see hat mine should look like in 4 years. Although, when I start in London on 7th march it'll be another 2000mile per month usage... :-) so could be up to 42,000 in another year... :-)
Oh well, another enjoyable 22000 miles aboard a GTR. :-). Let the Good Times Roll.
Neil
I average about 2000 miles per month as well. I'd have to clean the bike weekly which is too much hassle. It does have a layer of ACF50 so does clean up nicely.
Its going for a deep clean soon though. I'll post pics
On this topic, can I say that after doing Applecross pass, Scotland, two up, full of camping gear, my front brake pads were literally down to the metal. I went to a dealer who did the job while I waited. I had done the pads 8k before :( and put copperslip on the bolts holding the calipers in place. The mechanic explained that copper grease should never be put on these bolts, rather a drop of thread lock. Regards, JR
Changed mine this year they had done 20000m which I did not think was bad for a heavy bike , put in some ebc hh pads ,but still find the brakes a bit wooden in feel , compared to my ktm's
Quote from: Davio on May 29, 2018, 08:14:28 PM
On this topic, can I say that after doing Applecross pass, Scotland, two up, full of camping gear, my front brake pads were literally down to the metal. I went to a dealer who did the job while I waited. I had done the pads 8k before :( and put copperslip on the bolts holding the calipers in place. The mechanic explained that copper grease should never be put on these bolts, rather a drop of thread lock. Regards, JR
Problem with lubricating any bolt is that it changes the friction and therefore affects the torque setting.
He is correct that you should use a thread lock to prevent corrosion and galling, but you need a non setting thread lock that will enable bolts to be removed easily. I suspect my callipers had been done with the wrong stuff, or none at all as the socket heads rounded off and I need to get the bolts extracted by my local dealer..