Checked my rear tyre when I got back from a ride today and I'm not too happy with it. Its got a few small cuts in it, should I change it or do you reckon its ok? The last thing I want is a puncture and in addition to that the bikes due for its MOT in a couple of months.
The tyres done about 7000 miles or so, so I guess that isnt too bad is it?
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/Jaffa_Cake101/Tan%20Hill%20Inn%20Trip%2022nd%20March%202011/100_1743.jpg)
What tyre is it? Is it anywhere near the wear markers? The nick in the centre band may be a weak spot now, no way of telling. I just dream of a rear tyre lasting 7k miles, 3.5k on a bt021 for me though. Ultimately I guess you have to look at the pros and cons of your tyre state, if it was me i'd be getting a new one
The Nick in the centre tread shouldn't cause too many problems, provided its shallow, it'll wear itself out. Looks like you have at least 1k miles left on it (if not a little more), its also a little squared off, but a few days of twisties should sort that out. On long trips i always carry a bottle of tyre weld (not sure if this will affect the TPS unit??) so i can limp to a tyre place. If it was me i'd risk it...hows your front??
Quote from: pembsgtr on March 23, 2011, 08:25:35 AM
What tyre is it? Is it anywhere near the wear markers? The nick in the centre band may be a weak spot now, no way of telling. I just dream of a rear tyre lasting 7k miles, 3.5k on a bt021 for me though. Ultimately I guess you have to look at the pros and cons of your tyre state, if it was me i'd be getting a new one
It's a Metzeler, in all honesty the tyre has actually done about 9k. I know the previous owner had done 4k on the current tyres and I've done 5k so we must be looking somewhere in the region of 8.5-9k. He was a steady rider and so am I. I cant be bothered thrashing it off from junctions, traffic lights etc.
When I change them it will be for the Michelin PR3's. had a quote yesterday, £105 for the front & £144 for the rear. I dont think thats too bad. I know they aren't the cheapest tyres on the market vailable for this bike but they have a damn good reputation.
Quote from: fatharry on March 23, 2011, 09:04:24 AM
The Nick in the centre tread shouldn't cause too many problems, provided its shallow, it'll wear itself out. Looks like you have at least 1k miles left on it (if not a little more), its also a little squared off, but a few days of twisties should sort that out. On long trips i always carry a bottle of tyre weld (not sure if this will affect the TPS unit??) so i can limp to a tyre place. If it was me i'd risk it...hows your front??
Thats the thing, I dont know how deep the cut is and I dont want to really go poking about with a screwdriver. What with the MOT rapidly approaching it might just be time to bite the bullet and splash out on some new tyres. The front tyre is in better shape than the rear, that seems to have worn pretty evenly.
The benefit of the GTR is of course the TPS which would hopefully rapidly indicate a sudden drop in pressure, I wouldn't want the tyre to go though on a bend and rapidly deflate, that could spell disaster!
OK then, the last answer makes the solution simple......It you don't have full faith in the condition of your tyres then change em'...cause you don't want to be second guessing yourself through every corner (thats not fun riding)
Statistically 80% of all tyre punctures occur in the last 20% of tyre life (proper spotter me!!)..if your not comfortable on what you're on then its time to change ;D
I would think that would pass the MOT and you may wish to run it for a little longer, especially if the weather stays dry .. depends on your mileage, reckon on a new set of tyres in a few weeks time ......
Lonewolf: Good choice... ie. Michelin Pilot Road CT3. On my VFR800 I did about 22.500km. On my Busa it's about 10-12.000km. (CT2)
Under normal conditions (ie. warm and nice roads) my talent would'nt tell the difference from Bridgestone, Pirelli, Metzler, Michelin... but during cold conditions, rain etc. - then CT2 and CT3 is just the right choice!
Change it. I remember my Angel STs looking like that, a week later I could see the thread
Quote from: Norman Bates on March 23, 2011, 06:02:43 PM
Change it. I remember my Angel STs looking like that, a week later I could see the thread
What does thread mean, oh yes 3 points on your licence, dont want points thanks. :o
Going to order some in the morning, thanks for the advice off everyone.
Poor profile on that Tyre....bit square looking..You should stay off the Motor Ways.
I've ordered the new tyres today. They'll be fitted on 1st April, thats the earliest I can get the bike to the shop, bloody work, always gets in the way of the important things.
what tyres did you order??
The Michelin PR3's.
Be sure to let us know how the new Michelins feel. Mine has the Bridgestones, Thouigh great on my Bandit I dont rate them as much on the GTR.
The Michelin PR3's.
[/quote]
Sorry! Where is the wear indicator on the tyre?
How far can a bike tyre be worn down in UK?
In Denmark you can use a tyre until 1mm - normally when worn-down indicator on the tyre.
Sooo... in that case... that picture showing 1 pcs. okay tyre.....
/H
It's the same here - 1mm for bikes (1.6 for cars) although I tend to change before I get that low!
Tread wise, there's plenty on my rear tyre. Its the splits which are developing more than the tread level which concerns me. :o
BUT I'm a bit paranoid, no make that very paranoid about my tyres. I'm the same with the car tyres, I always change them well before they are actually due. Its just piece of mind really. I'm a firm believer that if somethings niggling you about your vehicle, be it bike or car, but more so with a bike, it'll affect your ride and you wont settle into a good ride. Or at least thats what its like with me.
Mr Moose ... the Tread Wear Indicator (TWI) can be found on all tyres both car and bike. For example if you look at the side of the tyre , lets say a Dunlop, you will see a number of " little Dunlop men " around the edge ... these are in line with a slightly harder band of rubber that runs across the entire width of the tyre at a depth of 1.6mm ... when and if you let your tyres get this low you will see them appear in the tread of the tyre ... run your finger across the tyre and if the TWI is the same depth as your tread, ie a clean wipe across with no bumpy feeling you need to change your rubber ! All sounds a bit anal but many years ago I had an input about tyres at work and believe me you get what you pay for ... all the " major " makes spend stacks of money on R and D so as we all know it comes down to personal choice at the end of the day.
Anyway ... there you go !
Mr Lord!
I know about TWI - but that photo shows a quite okay tyre... well.. after full speed up/down
of german Autobahn... it look like that... but nothing to worry about... It will last for
another 2-4000km. On the other hand... if Woolfy feeling good about changing tyre now... ;-)
Lord Rusty, is the tread wear indicator on a bike tyre at 1mm or 1.6mm? I'd of thought it would be at 1mm but I could be mistaken.
I swear I am jinxed! >:(
I was told to get the bike down to Bradford Motorcycles 1st thing, 9am were the instructions. Well today I think I have just been part of an experiment to see if someone could set a world record for the slowest tyre change in the world.
The bike was delivered at 9am as instructed, finally ready for collection at twenty to four in the afternoon. ::) ::) Six hours and forty minutes in total, three hours and twenty minutes per wheel!! Its not even as if it was sat there waiting for me to collect it, I know that for a fact because I was in their bloody showroom most of the time towards the end waiting for it to be wheeled out. Apparantly they had a backlog of work from the previous day. Anyway finally got the GTR back and had a short ride on her before I went home.
A vast improvement.
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/Jaffa_Cake101/Fingers/100_1774.jpg)
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/Jaffa_Cake101/Fingers/100_1775.jpg)
They claim the hugger caused them some problems with the fitting of the rear wheel. Each time they had to tweak the positioning of the hugger they had to take the exhaust off. ;D I could of told them that if they'd asked.
So far and I've only done ten miles or so, the tyres seem more positively planted on the road. I'll try and get out tomorrow and scrub them in nice and steadily and then see how they fare over the next few weeks or so.
Hope you weren't paying by the hour, that would be one expensive tyre change.
The tread pattern looks pretty radical compared to everything else on the market. It will be interesting to hear how the PR3's perform in all weathers and what the wear rate is as well
£50, they charged to fit them. £8 approx per hour labour, does that sound about right for a skilled mecahnic? ;)
M and P in Swansea charged me £20 each end, would have done the loose wheels for £10,
I'll do it for free.. just pop-in for a quick-change! ;D
(free coffee included)
Quote from: mosegaard on April 01, 2011, 07:44:27 PM
I'll do it for free.. just pop-in for a quick-change! ;D
(free coffee included)
Now you are just being daft! ;D ;D
And what exactly would the cost in Krone before a pair of michelin pr3. Be a good excuse for a trip away
1mm for bike tyres Mr Wolf .... those tyres look very grippy and a bit woo and a bit wah !
So far I'm extremely impressed with the new tyres, you turn the the bike and it actually goes where you intend it to go and effortlessly too. The old tyres sometimes behaved as if they were trying to fight back on occasions. :o