Comming home late last night i was cornering at noderat speed, and changed to a higer gear, the my oil presure light flashed for a sec. I have seen it once before but that was like half a year ago.
Is it posible to stall the engine by not give it enough revs when going to a higer gear?
I tried to do it on purpose to see if it wass and then for some reason the engine stalled and died on me. Pulled the clutch and could fire it right back up. The took me home whitout any issues the next hr of riding.
Not seen that one although I have just the once seen the standard F1 error pop up and go.
I guess your levels are ok, if concerned then get the dealer to check for oil pressure, not sure how you can do this check yourself.
Alan
Funny enough Johnny the same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago.
I was turning into a services area off the M5 and the an orange light flickered on and the bike stalled, it was so quick I didn't get a look to confirm which light it was but was fairly sure it was the oil light. I pulled over to the side of the car park and checked the oil level, all was ok, turned the ignition on again and it started and I had no more problems with it while I was over there, so was a bit of a mystery to me.
I put it out of my head and told myself I had just stalled it but now I know it's exactly the same situation as yours.
I'm not going to worry about it though.
Oil pressure as standard isn't very high on these engines and it only has to get a bit hot, a bit thin and a slower than normal tickover and the light will flicker on sometimes. Hapeens to all Kawasakis. One reason to keep the tickover set at about 1100 even though it will happily plonk away at 800
Oil Pressure
Standard: 245 ∼ 343 kPa (2.5 ∼ 3.5 kgf/cm², 36 ∼ 50
psi) @ 4 000 r/min (rpm), oil temperature 90°C (194°F)
Thanx for the info. Kinda good to know someone else had the same and no more issues. After all its just 2 weeks to my 4 week vacation ride.
Im stil trying to get used to the gears on the GTR, its so diferent to my previus bikes. When changing to a higer gear i need to rev it more for a smooth gear shift.
Johnny, mine also cut out once (when changing from fourth to fifth gear at around 3,500 rpm) shortly after I bought it (mileage then around 700) and I only realised because the oil light flashed briefly and power disappeared (as soon as the next gear was engaged, it started immediately).
There are now some 3,00 miles on the clock and it hasn't (as yet!) happened since.
I reckon it takes less than ½ second to change from 4th to 5th gear, so I don't follow how you can stall the engine in such a short space of time, especially if you do clutchless changes
- lots of miles from new , and this has never happened . IMHO , would be very very concerned with a bike that cuts out , by itself. Can be very very very dangerous.
- with this bike (shaft driven) , have found that the shifts (both up and down) are best when you don't mess around. Ie , clutch and gear (and the downshift blip if you're trained that way) done quick.
- if you dally , its a rough ride.
.
Never seen the oil light on my bike. A handful of times the old FI error with the bright red light though.
Incidentally, yesterday, i was pulling out of a junction in my stupid car when it cut out... And engaged the handbrake!!!
Too many electronics these days...
Ros
Quote from: Ros on April 21, 2013, 12:52:29 AM
Never seen the oil light on my bike. A handful of times the old FI error with the bright red light though.
Incidentally, yesterday, i was pulling out of a junction in my stupid car when it cut out... And engaged the handbrake!!!
Too many electronics these days...
Ros
:agree: my last car had an electric handbrake, which I didn't like, however it never failed :smiley:
I don't think that the engine did actually stall, as although I always use the clutch (whilst I wouldn't want to start another debate in respect of the benefits or otherwise of doing so, for quite a few years I was an R&D engineer with a major car manufacturer, so hopefully know a little about such things, albeit from a different perspective) the revs did not wind down to a particularly low level between the two gears.
Rather I believe, this was probably an electronic glitch, maybe the result of the sidestand interlock acting when it should not have done so and cutting the ignition perhaps?
It may also be relevant that when it happened, the bike had not been used for around two weeks and weather was both cold and wet during that time?
My bike had been used regulary and it was cold but not wet. But it had been standing out in the rai. The last week before the ride.