Hi all,
Just thinking of changing my pads for Summer. The front are no problem but has anyone got any tips for the rear? I haven't looked properly but please tell me that I don't have to remove the rear wheel... :oops:
You don't have to remove the rear wheel.
Cheers Dok. I am assuming that the two bolts undo to drop the brakes down to then undo the retainers and hey presto?
Loosen the retaining pins first. Then undo the 2 bolts. Much easier that way.
Whilst the caliper is off, push the pistons out a little way and clean everything with brake cleaner and a toothbrush before you push the pistons back.
If you aren't going to clean the calipers then you can change the pads without removing the caliper.
Just remove the retaining pins and spring and pull the pads.
Muchas Gracias as always guys,,,:-)
Even I can clean/replace rear pads, so that makes it a piece of p-- :yes:
Crikey ... Did you read that Steve .... If Geoff can do it then so can I ... Oh .. Well .. Maybe not ... Where,s that spanner ?? :help: :help: :mfr_lol:
And how do you change the front ones? tempted to have a go.. :hammer: :mfr_lol:
Quote from: Debs on April 11, 2013, 11:49:56 AM
And how do you change the front ones? tempted to have a go.. :hammer: :mfr_lol:
Just as easy, one 5mm Allen key, pliers and a screwdriver, unscrew the pin and pop the metal plate out, it actually falls out, using the flat blade screwdriver I simply eased the pads a fraction back into the calliper and using the pliers pulled the pad out, there are 4 each side.
I removed the pads and gave the brake lever a little squeeze and this pushed the piston out a little allowing me to clean thoroughly the seals etc.
Push the piston back in using same screwdriver and after applying copper slip to the rear of the pad push them back in, clean the metal plate and put that on and after cleaning and applying a little more copper slip to the pin and threads screw it back in.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Alan
Yep, I can do the fronts as well :yes:
Quote from: 100milesaway on April 11, 2013, 02:10:44 PM
Yep, I can do the fronts as well :yes:
:clap: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:
Nigel, I've said this before, step back from the bike with the spanner, it'll only end in tears.
Ha ha
Quote from: Dive1082 on April 11, 2013, 07:40:07 PM
Ha ha
No seriously he has to get someone to help him put fuel in the bike in case he screws it up! :mfr_lol:
Quote from: Debs on April 11, 2013, 02:14:49 PM
:clap: :mfr_lol: :mfr_lol:
debs.. best to loosen of the pad pins before removing the caliper then remove the pads from the caliper and before you lightly squeeze the brake lever, put a long file or similar about inch wide between both sets of pistons just in case one of the pistons is lazy coming out, that way you can stop the other piston from popping out before the lazy piston catches up :yes: don't worry if the pistons then are tight against the file, just hold the caliper in your hand and prize the pistons back using the file or similar just before the clean part of the piston, then you can use a tooth brush with wurth brake cleaner to clean the pistons and caliper, don't forget to use copper grease on the pad pins shafts and on the thread to stop them seizing in the caliper body.. also copper grease the caliper retaining bolts :grin: don't over tighten the pad pins or caliper mounting bolts :no: just screw by hand, then use a socket and hex key till the bolt bites then just give a 1/4 turn. if you don't have a torque wrench :smiley: p.s don't forget :no: when you have refitted the calipers to squeeze the brake lever a few times " to take up the play between the pistons and pads" until the brake lever comes firm again!! before you ride the bike :grin:
Debs, thats good advice from my friend Dave :yes:. He's better than a Haynes manual :mfr_lol: :whistling:
Quote from: 100milesaway on April 13, 2013, 06:16:01 PM
Debs, thats good advice from my friend Dave :yes:. He's better than a Haynes manual :mfr_lol: :whistling:
It sounds very complicated :wacko:
Quote from: 100milesaway on April 13, 2013, 06:16:01 PM
Debs, thats good advice from my friend Dave :yes:. He's better than a Haynes manual :mfr_lol: :whistling:
I use Haynes manual for swatting flies :mfr_lol:
Quote from: Debs on April 13, 2013, 06:27:57 PM
It sounds very complicated :wacko:
:no: it's very simple procedure.. it just sounds complicated if you've not done it before :yes: in fact I forgot to mention, if your just cleaning your calipers it's not necessary to squeeze the pistons out :no: because if your re-fitting the same pads you do not need to push the pistons back to allow for the extra thickness of the new pads, so just clean the pistons in the position they are :smiley: you only need to push the pistons out to make sure the base of the piston is clean if your fitting new pads other wise if you've not made sure the pistons are free from dirt e.t.c when your push the pistons back any dirt or gravel will damaged the dust seal and possible the main seal. also remember it's imperative to make sure you have a quality set and the precise size hex key socket to loosen and tighten the caliper retaining bolts and the padpins bolts, if you round theses off their a bastard to get out. take your time and you will be fine :smiley:
Ok thank you..
What is the minimum thickness on the pads that you would consider changing them?
I checked mine today and they look about 2mm at a guess.
Forget the question... Found the answer.. :banana:
Front 4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
Rear 5.0 mm (0.20 in.)
Service Limit: 1 mm (0.04 in.)
BA ... that sounds really easy ... I may just have a go myself .. thanks :yes:
Quote from: Debs on April 14, 2013, 04:31:41 PM
Ok thank you..
What is the minimum thickness on the pads that you would consider changing them?
I checked mine today and they look about 2mm at a guess.
Forget the question... Found the answer.. :banana:
Front 4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
Rear 5.0 mm (0.20 in.)
Service Limit: 1 mm (0.04 in.)
if you have the o.e.m Kawasaki pads they have a wear indicator at approx 1mm :smiley: I would not changed pads at 2 mm :no: their only about half worn. I changed my pads at or just before the 1mm mark. if you want to know approx how long you will get with your current pads, so if their on 2 mm and providing your style of riding stays similar, just half the mileage you've done on the pads to date then half that mileage, then you will be changing at approx just above the wear limit at 1mm :smiley: