Time to change the oil, simple job, I thought. Had already purchased a new sump plug bolt, so drained oil changed filter and time to screw in new bolt and Snap! Head sheared straight off. Left with the thread inside the sump pan and the head in my hand. No way am I drilling it out can't get the bike up high enough to get a drill to it anyway. Managed to screw the head back in slightly and slapped some liquid steel around it.
What a :censored: knightmare.
Good idea not to give it too much welly when doing up the new one.. Torque it up? :sad:
Might be worth getting one of those 90 degree transfer boxes that go on a drill. Push the bike up onto a plank and park on the prop stand this will give you a lot more room to play with underneath.
Don't think I'd be happy riding around with a bit of glue holding all the oil in :cry:
Beggars the question . Why did you happen to have a new sump bolt handy?
Very aware not to tighten to much, I think in fact they are designed to shear of if torqued too much so as not to strip the thread, but what you do after its left in there I'm not quite sure?
The thread part of the bolt is probably about 5mm up the thread of the sump so don't think there is any chance of it coming out, plus the bolt head is half a turn up the thread with liquid steel holding it in place.
If the head has sheared off can we assume the thread thats left in there isn't in too tight? If not once the metal glue stuff goes off perhaps it will undo....
Wouldn't use it until I'd got it out... Not worth a new engine :undecided:
Got underneath and tried to move the thread that was in there, but it wouldn't budge so guess it not going to come out.
How about sidestand, fine drill, about 4 mm to make a small hole.. Then tap a torx bit into the hole ....
Engine drain bolt torque setting is 30 nm or 22 ftl b great care should be taken not to exceed this figure
I suggest you drill out the damaged plug and replace it with a new one :yes:
Only thought I had with drilling it out is wouldn't the action of the drill screw it further in and possibly through into the sump?
As long as you drill at a decently fast speed and let the bit do the work, the old threaded bit won't move. Just don't lean too heavily on the drill and you'll soon have a decent hole
This sounds like its going to get very messy!
Neil
No ....not if you pilot drill it first and then use a Bolt extraction tool...like this :yes:
If you don't feel confident in doing it yourself then I would suggest that you approach someone who is ...no offence
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Extractor-Set-New-Damaged-Broken-Nut-Bolt-Screw-Removal-Remover-Puller-Bit-/350752773780?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item51aa7e9694
Play it safe, very safe, get it to the dealer or get them to collect it and let them sort it. Probably cost you an hours labour, £60-£70 but could be worth it in the long run.
Quote from: Lonewolf on March 30, 2013, 09:53:23 PM
Play it safe, very safe, get it to the dealer or get them to collect it and let them sort it. Probably cost you an hours labour, £60-£70 but could be worth it in the long run.
I agree with the Wolf
Wouldn't chance it until it's fixed, which it needs to be sooner or later anyway for the next change of oil
Bad luck mate
useful video on left handed drill bits
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYvaPbX1sT4
Sounds like a possible sump off job , the sump steel wont handle a lot of rough treatment , I have got them out of Landrovers/Tractors by using easy outs , call the workshop in your local dealer and they will advise before trying anything , at the moment its a new bolt ......I would not imagine a new sump would be very cheap .
PS if you are going to have a crack at this yourself you need to start with a small drill bit and work up then tap it with a L/Hand thread , but if you have snapped the nut off then it will be in too tight to get off with a smaller size .
Just out of Interest, I went to Cradley Kawasaki's website to look at the new sump pan.
£165.94 each - Luckily - you only need one!
If it comes to that....
Good Luck!
Neil
not the end of the world :no: easy fix :yes: have a look at this clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDpve6ZgC8U then buy this kit http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/310429893976?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0# the problem will be lifting the bike high enough to enable you to get space to use a drill, maybe a thick piece of wood under the centre stand to give more clearance when the front is raised and use a trolley jack under the header pipes to raise the bike at the front as much as you need, have a few mates hold your bike firm from each side while your drilling so the bike can't topple over. theses flexible shaft drill attachments come in handy when space is limited http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300756676034&clk_rvr_id=464182031947 but if you have not a elec drill with a crawl speed and need to buy one, then the flexible shaft and then the extractor bolt set and don't plan on using them again, it will most likely be cheaper to phone a nut and bolt extractor guy up! they are mobile and charge approx £60.00 to £80.00 to extract your sheered off bolt :smiley: just make sure you have a new sump bolt to hand :whistling: if you don't have a torque wrench to hand when refitting the new sump bolt. screw the sump bolt in by hand till it sits, then use the socket and ratchet with very light pressure till the bolt bites, then using slightly more pressure give it a 1/4 turn.
heres another idea that may be of some help.as you have applied liquid steel around the end of the plug you now how have to get the plug unscrewed and also brake the seal of you liquid seal,i would try to remove as much as the liquid steel that you can see with a chisel/knife,try and drill the plug with a small cobalt pilot drill.next drill it to accept a left hand threaded tap,when drilling your hole for the tap use the clutch on the drill just incase the drill bit bites in too much.then tap a left hand thread onto your plug,(the plug may unscrew when you are tapping in the left hand thread if so great ) then screw in a left hand thread blot with a washer and a nut already on the bolt,nip the bolt up ,then tighten the washer and nut to the plug and unscrew it i would think this should remove it ,rather than drilling out the plug then having to re tap it and using a diferent size sump plug,or having it helicoiled after, good luck.
I dont know how easy it is, but I would remove the sump. The you can attack the broken bolt from both sides then. The extractor tools are great and will remove it. As long as you get a nice hole in it. As a sump plug, I cant think its case hardened steel so should drill ok.
Good luck, its an absolute pisser when something like that happens. at least the oil is still in there so you can move it.
If you do have a go, tie the handle bars up to the garage roof, cos you may be pushing on that drill and cause the bike to roll off the stand.
I stripped a fairing bolt the other day so i'll have to tap that when I get a chance
Carvern, I imagine you are wishing you hadn't asked the question now :mfr_lol:
I would suggest that unless you are sufficiently competent and confident enough to extract the damaged plug that you leave it alone !
Take your bike to a dealer/specialist and get them to do the job for you.
I have drilled sump plugs and oil pump conections in the past I've even fitted helicoils to repair damaged threads in sumps and Triple oil pumps, and I wouldn't recommend that yours is a job to be undertaken by yourself unless you are totally confident about your abilities.
Please don't be offended by my comments I just don't want you to end up with a bigger repair bill than necessary.
Hi
Looking at the parts diagram here: -
http://www.kawasakioriginalparts.com/kawasaki_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=E1434&block_02=99912-1648&block_03=mc&year01=2010&ca=GB
its doesn't look like taking the pan off to get at the inside is going to help much :undecided: , too many castings inside....
Depending on how far inside the hole it has sheared off the way I would try first is to weld a nut onto what's left. The hole in a M10 (17mm head) nut is big enough to mig weld through, allowing you to weld onto the sheared bolt, then turn the nut as normal to undo, it either comes out or shears the weld off, usually leaving you back where you started, ie no worse off.
Richard
PS
I have just noticed on the same diagram there is part no. 92066, marked as plug, is this a blank in the position the drain used to be, can it be used as a drain?
PPS
Ignore that, just realized yours is 2008 so I think the plug is where the drain is, and they moved the drain to the front in 2010 ?