My bike went in for it's 36k service last week, and the tech rang me to say the rear brake foot pedal was siezed solid. Not a huge surprise as the bike goes all through winter and I never use the rear brake.
Anyway, the dealership removed, freed up and greased the pedal. It moves freely now.
On my way home from the service, I notice that the bike does not roll back when stopped on a slight hill. Get home and check, and the rear brake is binding. Took the caliper off, removed the pads, extended the pistons and cleaned as best I could. Better, but still binds a bit - 20 miles on the motorway without using the brakes and the rear disk is too hot to touch.
Before I strip the caliper and replace the seals, anyone got any other suggestions for what it may be? The rear disk runs straight and true, and I have not noticed any binding before the service.
Martin.
sounds more than likely that the pistons are seizing in the caliper. Strip down and clean is the only proper option. Isn't this supposed to be part of the regular sevice, like changing fluids every 2 years or 15Kand strip and replace caliper seals, front and back every 4 years or 30K.
I wouldn't expect it from an independent dealer, but would hope that a main dealer would stick with the recommended service schedule
Martin, Has the bike had the recall done on the brake pedal?, some bikes have had a problem like yours when a stone has jammed the brake pedal, but the dealer should have noticed a fault like that during the brake pedal removal, but it is worth checking again. Failing that I think you need to concentrate your thoughts and efforts on the caliper pistons. Good luck.
Thanks guys. My bike has had the recall done, and I don't think a strip/clean of the calipers is defined in the service schedule. The bike has been serviced by the supplying main dealer since new, and I have never been charged for such work.
I shall order a seal kit and do it myself though.
Martin.
When you take the caliper off - can you push the pistons back home? then use the brake pedal to get them out again?
I would do this a couple of times and see whether that clears the problem.
in addition, did they replace the pads? OEM pads use a sqeal plate on the back of the pad, when I've fitted EBC pads, these are a slightly thicker (so I'm told) so might not be enough force to pull pads out of the way - hence they are binding. just a thought.
Neil
The brake operation effectiveness and play is supposed be checked by a servicing dealer on EVERY service.
My rear brake lever had a habit of sticking, this was noticed when I was in France, as the rear brake light remained illuminated at all times..its worth checking
Quote from: Martin#30 on March 27, 2013, 06:02:13 PM
Thanks guys. My bike has had the recall done, and I don't think a strip/clean of the calipers is defined in the service schedule. The bike has been serviced by the supplying main dealer since new, and I have never been charged for such work.
I shall order a seal kit and do it myself though.
Martin.
My service sheet says that the caliper rubbers are replaced every 30K/4 years
- adjust the actuation rod on the master cylinder (at the pedal).
- you may need more play there.
.
Thanks for the thoughts guys.
I did what Neil suggested, removed the brake pads, and pumped the pistons out and back a few times. Both seem to move freely, yet I still have the same issue. After riding for 30 miles on the motorway and not touching the brakes, the front disks are stone cold and the rear disk is almost too hot to touch.
I will look at Pistole's suggestion of the actuating rod, but I would only expect that to be an issue with new pads - the original pads are still in the bike and only 50% worn.
Puzzler. Maybe it does need seals, but I am puzzled by the fact that both pistons move freely.
Martin.
Quote from: Martin#30 on March 28, 2013, 08:54:57 AM
Puzzler. Maybe it does need seals, but I am puzzled by the fact that both pistons move freely.
Martin.
The pistons may move freely by hand, BUT the only force that retracts them is the flex in the caliper seal, there is no return spring or similar.
Any build up of crud will overcome the small force exerted by the seal.
I would pump out the pistons just far enough to clean the piston surface and see if that works. However my guess is the pistons will need to be removed to clean the groove that the hydraulic seal sits in.