Kawasaki 1400 GTR

1400 GTR - All Models => 1400GTR Discussion => Topic started by: trousersnake01 on November 21, 2012, 09:31:31 AM

Title: Wiring
Post by: trousersnake01 on November 21, 2012, 09:31:31 AM
I had the side off just to tidy up a few bits and pieces and noticed that the front auxiliary wires had over heated.

The rubber cover to the bullet connector had melted which is a major worry.

On the front I have my heated grips and my garmin attached to them.

The Daytona grips have a drain of 57w when on full.

Something to keep an eye out for
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: viper on November 21, 2012, 09:50:28 AM
the reason for melting is ususally an overloaded circuit, so its your  1st warning to wire the grips properly through a relay and onto the battery.  57w is almost 5 amps and then about 2 amps for the garmin means 7 amps on a circuit that probably wasny meant for it , its a long shot but next time the connector could combust !
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: O.C. on November 21, 2012, 10:42:50 AM
Quote from: viper on November 21, 2012, 09:50:28 AM
the reason for melting is ususally an overloaded circuit, so its your  1st warning to wire the grips properly through a relay and onto the battery.  57w is almost 5 amps and then about 2 amps for the garmin means 7 amps on a circuit that probably wasny meant for it , its a long shot but next time the connector could combust !

:agree: , Viper is totally correct ....be careful. Wire the grips up seperately
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: Boomer on November 21, 2012, 10:55:30 AM
The accessory wires are rated for a maximum of 70Watts which at 13.8 volts = 5 Amps.
I'm not surprised that they melted.
I fitted an accessory fusebox wired directly to the battery fused at 20Amps with 4 separate fused circuits on the output side.
I currently have a permanently on cigarette lighter socket fused at 10Amps for use with my Accumate charger.

If you do wire directly to the battery, DO NOT leave the heated grips on as they will flatten the battery overnight!
On my GTR1000 I wired the grips to a relay that only comes on when the ignition is on.
Power is directly from the battery via the relay and a fuse.
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: trousersnake01 on November 21, 2012, 10:04:42 PM
Yes, a good warning, going to put them through a relay now. Got some new oxford ones for Christmas coming.
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: trousersnake01 on November 21, 2012, 10:07:13 PM
Boomer, where did you fit your fusebox
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: Kwikasfuki on November 21, 2012, 10:43:35 PM
See this thread for where I installed the fuzeblock: http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic,278.0.html


Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: Boomer on November 22, 2012, 11:53:43 AM
I don't have any pics of my install but it's under the right inner fairing piece (the matt surfaced bit under the handlebar grips).
I made up a bracket from ally to attach to the fairing subframe.
Mine is a 2007 so that area will be a bit different on the 2010+.
Ran a cable direct to the battery +ve terminal with an inline 20A fuse at the battery end.
If you are hooking up heated grips or other high current devices make certain that you get a really good earth to the frame or motor on the -ve side.
Remember that the current flows through the whole circuit from battery -ve to battery +ve.
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: trousersnake01 on November 23, 2012, 02:59:51 AM
I have to say that the fuzeblock looks the way forward, nice meaty live wire feeding it and a good earth. I gather the switch wire opens up the relay for the battery feed.

Just out of interest, why is there so many contacts on the ground bus if you have a ground next to the live feeds ?
I presume every circuit has its own earth.   
Title: Re: Wiring
Post by: pistole on November 23, 2012, 04:47:33 AM
- as an aside : if you clean up the connections to the battery (and the ground strap leading from the NEG batt terminal to the frame) , you'll notice the starting is much stronger.

- its such an easy job too.

.