My KiPass system has started to act up in the last few months. When I press the stove key to unlock the bike, it only works 25% of the time. Most of the time, I need to remove the fob from my pocket and physically hold it next to the stove key.
I am also getting more and more instances where "No Transponder" flashes up briefly whilst riding. Probably happens twice a week at the moment, used to be twice a year.
It feels like the fault is with the keyfob itself, maybe its transmission range is reducing, or becoming intermittent. Replaced the fob batteries twice, no difference.
Anyone had similar, and fixed it? Anyone know if dealers can meaningfully test the KiPass system rather than simply replacing expensive parts until they cure it?
Martin.
Martin, when I first had the bike I noticed it happened a few times. However since then I haven't seen it. So the only difference to my bike would be that now I own and ride it the bike battery will be charged because it does a hundred miles every day as opposed to sitting in a dealership with a discharging bike battery.
Just a thought
Quote from: trousersnake01 on November 01, 2012, 11:41:29 AM
Martin, when I first had the bike I noticed it happened a few times. However since then I haven't seen it. So the only difference to my bike would be that now I own and ride it the bike battery will be charged because it does a hundred miles every day as opposed to sitting in a dealership with a discharging bike battery.
Just a thought
Good suggestion. My bike does between 300 and 600 miles each week so the main bike battery should be charged, but it is a 2 year old battery and they do not last forever. Swapping it could be a cheaper solution than replacing KiPass bits.
Martin.
If you are doing that sort of mileage your bike battery will be fine. Should get 4 or 5 years from that because of its use
When replacing Tx batteries make sure that they are high quality as cheepies only last five minutes!!!
Just to add a comment, if you look at the KIPASS location on the KMUK website, it's under the seat, not thE key.
You might get better response near the seat. Just a thought.
Neil
Quote from: SirToU on November 01, 2012, 05:15:59 PM
Just to add a comment, if you look at the KIPASS location on the KMUK website, it's under the seat, not thE key.
You might get better response near the seat. Just a thought.
Neil
Thanks Neil.
The KiPass ECU is indeed under the seat, but I have learned a lot recently reading about the KiPass system on various forums. It seems that the key fobs have two 'chips' in them to allow the bike to start. There is a radio based transmitter with a range of about 5 feet, and powered by the fob battery. There is also a near field type of chip, which works with a range of about 5cm which allows the bike to start, even if the fob battery is removed. This 5cm near field chip only works when the fob is held next to the headstock.
It seems like the 5 feet radio part of my fob is failing.
Martin.
Of course, I'd forgot about, the smaller rule. But that really is for emergencies, and I also forgot it worked with the fob and not just the keyring.
Neil
I had the low battery warning come on when the bike was about 2 yrs old.
I usually have both transponders with me when im out on the bike and taking to each to the bike separately show that both batteries were low.
I popped a new battery in each and bought 2 spare batteries in my inside jacket pocket. 18 months later and I've hardly used the bike this year but got the low battery display. I simply put the spare batteries in both transponders and now need to replace the spares.
Carrying the spares was handy one day when my mate got low battery warnng and I gavehim one of my spares.
P
Quote from: MJJ_ZX6RR on November 01, 2012, 10:05:02 AM
My KiPass system has started to act up in the last few months. When I press the stove key to unlock the bike, it only works 25% of the time. Most of the time, I need to remove the fob from my pocket and physically hold it next to the stove key.
I am also getting more and more instances where "No Transponder" flashes up briefly whilst riding. Probably happens twice a week at the moment, used to be twice a year.
It feels like the fault is with the keyfob itself, maybe its transmission range is reducing, or becoming intermittent. Replaced the fob batteries twice, no difference.
Anyone had similar, and fixed it? Anyone know if dealers can meaningfully test the KiPass system rather than simply replacing expensive parts until they cure it?
Martin.
So it seems, and I cannot quite believe I am actually going to type this, that the problem is my iPhone. If I walk up to the bike, press the stove key, 25% of the time the bike will unlock. But, if I remove said iPhone from my pocket, tada, 100% success rate.
Now, the phone is very close to the keyfob, although in a different pocket. Never happened with my Blackberry which I changed 3 months ago.
More testing required, but I do believe the phone to be the root cause. Very odd, as I would expect the BB and iPhone to use the same radio frequencies as they are on the same mobile network.
Martin.
Well now there's a thing, I had an iPhone 4 and it was very problematic with regard to its signal/reception qualities
My house wifi (or neighbours) sets and unsets the central locking on my Range Rover and I come home to a flat battery
Coman
KiPass is a very short range radio signal and therefore very weak, any strong radio signal will swamp the area stopp
Quote from: coman37 on November 09, 2012, 09:38:58 PM
My house wifi (or neighbours) sets and unsets the central locking on my Range Rover and I come home to a flat battery
Coman
ing the weaker signal. Used to get loads of problems with car alarm fobs in supermarket car parks, push the car 50yds down the road and away you go.
Quote from: Ubertours on November 10, 2012, 09:35:39 AM
KiPass is a very short range radio signal and therefore very weak, any strong radio signal will swamp the area stopping the weaker signal. Used to get loads of problems with car alarm fobs in supermarket car parks, push the car 50yds down the road and away you go.
I am not going to park my car 50 yds from my drive???
I will just get screwed by someone elses wifi,
I keep a spare battery with crocodile clips in the boot just in case
Coman
QuoteMy house wifi (or neighbours) sets and unsets the central locking on my Range Rover and I come home to a flat battery
Actually, some cars (usually older models) when the battery goes flat, the central looking locks/unlocks/locks/unlocks.... etc. and then the battery goes completely flat. Obviously you THINK that someone is trying to get into your car or whatever. No way that the neighbours wifi will do that.
my gtr is 2 years and 1 month old and up to date had no problems with the kipass system :smiley: but did need to change the fob battery just before it was 2 years old, so the battery life for the fob battery seems to be 2 years only a few quid to buy and less than 5 minutes to changed so who gives a :shit: :smiley: but not looking forward to replacing the tyre sensor battery :nono: I know for a fact.. that it will cost £250.00 to replace the whole sensor and reprogram it to the e.c.u. :sad: what was kawasaki thinking off.. when one of their "bright sparks" designed a sensor with batteries that cost few quid with a design where they can't simple be replaced like the fob batteries when you have a new tyre fitted. As far as I'm concerned, this is the only thing that lets the gtr down. I know some of us are planning on D.I.Y soldering, but is it with the hassle well I think :no: let's say you remove the wheel and use your own tyre machine if you've got one! then you solder 2 new batteries in place, put the wheel back on and the dam thing doesn't work :hammer: or you take the wheel off and take to the dealers, I doubt very much the dealer will wait why you try to solder new batteries in place, even if you know the dealer and he allows you to solder 2 batteries in place and he refits the tyre, then if the sensor dosen't work when you refit the wheel yourself you can't be sure if the dealer as damaged the sensor or you've bollock the soldering up :hammer: I've recently had a front new tyre fitted, I told the tyre fitted at the dealers to run my bike around the block to confirm the front tyre sensor is working how it should because if it's not after you've fitted the tyre I will expect you to refit a new sensor. I was not surprised :no: when he said.. I allways insist on test riding all gtr's before new tyres are fitted. he said he's fell for that one before and dosen't intend on getting bit twice.
Quote from: MJJ_ZX6RR on November 09, 2012, 01:45:53 PM
So it seems, and I cannot quite believe I am actually going to type this, that the problem is my iPhone. If I walk up to the bike, press the stove key, 25% of the time the bike will unlock. But, if I remove said iPhone from my pocket, tada, 100% success rate.
Now, the phone is very close to the keyfob, although in a different pocket. Never happened with my Blackberry which I changed 3 months ago.
More testing required, but I do believe the phone to be the root cause. Very odd, as I would expect the BB and iPhone to use the same radio frequencies as they are on the same mobile network.
Martin.
Simple solution Martin. Dump the iPhone!
- maybe a parallel experience for your IPhone - with the Ducati Diavel , owners here were specifically warned not to keep their FOB together with their handphone. This resulted in some failure on the part of the bike to recognise the FOB.
.
The fob transmits/receives at 433Mhz so anything that also transmits(overpowers), receives or resonates(absorbs) at that frequency will limit the range.
In the USA they use 315mhz instead so they get interference from a "speedpay" system that is fitted to some petrol station pumps. :mfr_lol:
At a guess I would say that your iPhone internal antenna arrangement is blocking some of the signal from the fob.
The arrangement in a BB will be very different.
Either that or else the iPhone uses a different heterodyne circuit that is tuned to 433Mhz somewhere along the line.
If I put my Samsung Galaxy S2 & HTC Desire in the same pocket as my fob it reduces the range but still works when I'm sat on the bike.
If I put the phones in a different pocket that is right next to the KiPass pocket then KiPass works up to about 6 feet from the bike.
All phones are different even if the channel they communicate on externally is the same.
I could go into details but I doubt many would be interested in a lecture on radio design and the complexity of modern smartphones. :no:
That is really interesting about fobs and phones. Mine are normally together in my tank bag. Tonight I placed the fob in the tank pocket storage thing which was now under my tank bag and twice the dash threw up 'No Transponder'.
And as for the bloody wheel sensors, take it out and fit a normal valve stem and then you can repair it at your leisure and do a good job.
Hassle I know but should last a couple of years. Mines an 09 and when I start up and its really cold weather it always says low battery but this goes off when tyres get warm.