tried to start bike yesterday pushed key down nothing happened no display nothing .
thought the key fob battery was dead, tried the spare, nothing on that. phoned local dealer, he suggested micro switch was stuck down, told me to try taking key out and squirting WD40 underneath switch which did rectify the problem but the same happened two days later - tried the same remedy but nothing again! bugger. any suggestions on what the problem could be?
It sounds like the ignition switch unit is faulty, as the KIPASS system has its own ECU located by the Tool Box.
If you have used WD40 and its temporarily improved the cooker knob operation that would point towards some sort of issue beneath the Knob itself. Perhaps a touch more WD or some electrical contact cleaner would help, at the same time as moving the ignition switch knob to ensure that the lubricant/cleaner is thoroughly 'massaged' in
try using your credit card key, touching it against the barrel, to eliminate a problem with your kipass fob
If you do a search for a Kipass bypass loom you'll find some of the american Concours owners have already came across this issue,
Don't know exactly how it works but does work as you described when the igition switch sticks and prevents the switch from unlocking when you push down.. somehow having this loom installed you can flick a small switch or disconnect and reconnect it to reset the kipass system thereby allowing the ignition switch to turn, it only works on the mechanical side though, it doesn't override the need for the key fob..
another problem I've not heard of :sad: so it may be wise to every month spray some w/d40 or duck oil down the ignition barrel which hopefully will prevent this from happening. if I hear of anymore problems with the gtr :whistling: may consider jumping ship :cry: but on the bright side, I do like the new blue and black and green and black colours on the 2013 zzr1400 :smiley: did have my eye on the b.m.w 1600 but have heard they leak like a sieve on the electrics :whistling: sorry winston :wink: :mfr_lol:
Hi.
Firstly, this has occurred before to me on a previous bike. It's not the KIPASS system itself, it's the "cooker" knob and Bournemouth Kawasaki took it apart cleaned it and it worked fine after that.
How, they did it, I don't know.
But fear not, it is solve-able providing its the same issue. There is a work around for this, that I have used in an Emergancy. WITHOUT removing farings, down the left hand side of the bike their is a fairly large grey connector block, while the fob is in range, disconnect and reconnect it. As long as the fob is in range, it should activate the knob providing a "get me to a shop or home" solution.
Hope this works for you
Neil
Ps. Not tried this on MkII GTR's.
Mr SirToU.. that info is handy to know, however I'm a true believer in prevention rather than cure :yes:.. hopefully a few squirts of wd/40 every month may prevent this from happening in the first place :smiley:
Here's a link to those that have never heard of this before....
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,38021.msg222180.html#msg222180
It's from the Concours owners Group forum,
I did know about it as I do spend a lot of time researching my bikes, and I still decided to take a chance on the bike.
Reason being that as I can't afford a newer model that's still under warranty any problems with my bike that I can't repair myself... I'l have to pay hard earned money for, and I'd really rather not...
Hope it helps..
I did say - Get me home solution.
Waiting 4-5 hours in Starbuck's is not the most healthy of breakdowns.... :-)
Neil
- a knock on the key-barrel has been known to free up the mechanism. The newer GTRs have a different spring to prevent this.
.
thanks for your help lads ile try some of your tricks and let you know what happens
Oh why oh why all these fancy gadgets ????
What happened to the old normal key ? Sometimes trying to get too fancy creates more problems at the end of the day.
Deon
Quote from: Deon on October 30, 2012, 05:07:04 AM
Oh why oh why all these fancy gadgets ????
What happened to the old normal key ? Sometimes trying to get too fancy creates more problems at the end of the day.
Deon
That'll be today's security requirement Deon, designed to make the machine less 'thievable' (apparently)
Quote from: olde coney on October 30, 2012, 07:45:53 AM
That'll be today's security requirement Deon, designed to make the machine less 'thievable' (apparently)
Fully understood and accepted. But then develop something that does not give so much :shit: !!! Surely that cannot be so hard to do ? Same with the damn TPS sensors. Why not make them so that battery changes are possible without effort instead of charging heaven and earth for a unit that goes wrong every few months ??
Anyway, that is my rant for the day !!! :mfr_lol:
Deon
I don't understand why the TPS uses batteries at all. Why don't they just use piezoelectric crystals instead?
Maybe production costs are the main consideration
I've never (yet) had any problems with either KIPASS or TPS on any of the three GTRs I owned. :no:
I've never (yet) had any problems with either KIPASS or TPS on any of the three GTRs I owned. :no: [/color]
[/quote]
Touch wood that you don't because it is very frustrating and a pain in the :asshole: let me tell you !!!
Deon
Hi slickmick, had the same prob a few wks ago and did the wd40 trick and worked for a few days too then stuck. ive since had an air line on ignition and worked. Their must be minute crap gets in, then i used a heavier duty oil, now its fine, good luck.
just to let you know tapped the side of of ignition housing at 9 oclock position and switch released . gave another blast of wd 40 and it,s been working a treat since. Once again thanks for all your tips :banana: :banana: :banana:
so spraying wd/40 into the ignition barrel may prevent this happening in the future?
The only observation I would make about the use of WD40 and other simular products is that they could/will attract crap etc to collect which may then possibly vreate some sort of blockage
A locksmith friend of mine warns against the use of anything other than Graphite powder on all lock related mechanisms
BTW I have suggested this previously :yes:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CK-KASP-K30050-MICROFINE-GRAPHITE-LUBRICANT-POWDER-50-Grams-/300731573615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4604ffa56f
Quote from: olde coney on October 30, 2012, 10:50:09 AM
Maybe production costs are the main consideration
I've never (yet) had any problems with either KIPASS or TPS on any of the three GTRs I owned. :no:
+1 But I have only had the one bike :banana:.
Quote from: olde coney on October 30, 2012, 05:27:19 PM
The only observation I would make about the use of WD40 and other simular products is that they could/will attract crap etc to collect which may then possibly vreate some sort of blockage
A locksmith friend of mine warns against the use of anything other than Graphite powder on all lock related mechanisms
BTW I have suggested this previously :yes:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CK-KASP-K30050-MICROFINE-GRAPHITE-LUBRICANT-POWDER-50-Grams-/300731573615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4604ffa56f
Thanks for the link OC. I have been having KiPass issues for the last few weeks, I often have to remove the fob from my pocket and hold it next to the ignition barrel, and the stove key is now a two handed removal job.
I am hoping new Keyfob batteries (no batt warning on the dash though) and this graphite spray will help.
Martin.
Quote from: olde coney on October 30, 2012, 05:27:19 PM
The only observation I would make about the use of WD40 and other simular products is that they could/will attract crap etc to collect which may then possibly vreate some sort of blockage
A locksmith friend of mine warns against the use of anything other than Graphite powder on all lock related mechanisms
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CK-KASP-K30050-MICROFINE-GRAPHITE-LUBRICANT-POWDER-50-Grams-/300731573615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4604ffa56f
Just wanted to post back and say this is magnificent stuff. Bought some a week or two ago, and after blasting the locks with an airline, lubricated with this stuff. Huge difference. Stove key comes out like the poroverbial knife in butter now, before it was a two handed job.
Thanks OC.
Martin.
:clap: more beer tokens for me :mfr_lol:
You're NOT allowed beer in you condition :cry: :cry: :cry: sorry doctors orders :mfr_lol:.
Quote from: 100milesaway on November 16, 2012, 08:49:14 PM
You're NOT allowed beer in you condition :cry: :cry: :cry: sorry doctors orders :mfr_lol:.
Sadly you are right Geoff :sad:
- would just like to say that the best way to avoid any issues here is to leave the Stove-Knob permanently in the barrel.
- just cut a spare key for the bags/fuel/seat and keep that in a convenient place ( i just leave the key inserted into a bag's lock - which makes it really covenient during refuelling stops ).
.
That's what I do -I got a couple of spare keys cut for the bags, fuel filler and seat removal, I never pull the stove knob out except for the occasional dose of powdered graphite into the lock barrel.
Regards
Max.
had this problem on my 2010 and used my fist (light punch to the knob) to make it work. I have always left the key in place. sprayed it with lubricant and it is fine now. will keep spraying it regularly